Cosygate: BMC 200,000 Pound Loan to the – Climbers Club

Monday, August 16th, 2010

July, 2010:   At a time of  economic depression for many in the UK, the Climbers Club (CC) are seeking a, not unsubstantial loan, of 200,000 pounds from the – British Mountaineering Council (BMC) climbing’s representative but would be governing body. Two years ago, the BMC wasted a considerable amount of members / taxpayers money when it flooded the UK climbing scene with – 10,000 expansion bolts. It would appear, that at a time when the British government is concerned about the nations housing problem, the CC want to buy a – hut! and a very expensive hut at that. In 2009, when no doubt the above mentioned loan was first mooted, the CC staged its glittering guidebook anniversary lunch (100 Years) that was attended by, in the main, the wealthy great and good, members who could have raised the 200,000 pounds – over drinkies. Surely? Apparently, the BMC’s treasurer is also the treasurer of the – Climbers Club! You couldn’t make it up…

And then of course, there was the Lindagate affair when 20,000 pounds of members / taxpayers money went missing, Brazilgate (a South American scam) and Brenin(This Spendid Enterprise)gate**, when the charitable MTT faught off the competition (Glendale Leisure) by lobbying the then government thus landing a 450,000 pound government con-tract; annual government hand-out of taxpayers money with which to compete in the outdoor pursuits market and then there are the ’skeletens-in-the-cupboard’ mentioned in-passing in the BMC’s book: ‘The First Fifty Years’, page xi in the Editorial Introduction. And then of course there was the  political machinations of the Mountain Leadership tussle for control of a muti-million pound market. 

In 1986 the BMC had already made a 6,000 pound (a considerable amount twenty four years ago) loan (there may have be more) to the CC… At a time when the BMC was trying to put other climbers already offering services to climbers (reduced coach travel for climbers with National Express and then Eurolines was already being offered when the BMC – pounced) out of business, the BMC was making a considerable loan to the CC to create a – guidebook! Well maybe you could make it up if you really tried… ‘We lobbied the government in order to get the management of Plas-y-Brenin away from Glendale Leisure’, Glendale being the Sports Council’s original preferred bidder in 1996, Glendale who’s bid was made in pounds sterling by the date set by a European Directive. Just ten years before, the then General Secretary of the BMC thought that PyB was a: ‘needless waste of money that could be more needfully spent elsewhere’, he went on to mention the status quo and vested interests in the place and that people did not need such a palatial; expensive place in which to learn to climb (Climber magazine 1985).

** ‘Faced with a loss of moral amongst the staff and an uncertain future, the Advisory Committee of Plas-y-Brenin took the step of lobbying government in order to block the transfer to Glendale leisure. The national ‘governing’ bodies had a vested interest (along with a 450,000 pound annual incentive) in maintaining the status quo at the Centre. Their backing – combined with that of Martin Doyle (BMG) and the Centre staff – helped, and the negotiations (Sports Council – Glendale Leisure) broke down’. Step forward the cobbled-together Mountain Training Trust…

 http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=421196  http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=412534&v=1#x5884326  http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1775

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DJonsight

Wednesday, August 4th, 2010

The wag DJonsight was soo keen to pick-me up; try to spoil a posting - on punctuation: Cornish Controversy Cont…  http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=419492 and yet, as with this kind of person, their own writing can fall far short: On the post Pacemaker (26 July), though an obvious expert on the English language, DJonsight seems to have a problem with – spelling – ‘staight’ apparently means a straight line and ‘decription (if you can pronounce it)’ apparently means – some kind of; a new approach to – ‘description’. Experts eh…

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Libeled as Completely Barking

Monday, July 12th, 2010

On the ‘Question-mark’ thread where avoidable damage to Cornish cliffs and crags has – once again been highlighted in 2010: to be libeled as: ‘Now he is completely barking’, (ukclimbing.com 12 July, 2010 at 14:26h on a thread that I offered no opinion of my own; a thread that has attracted over 60,000 visits from other climbers and maybe, past, present and potential mountain clients) for merely trying to stop further deaths and injury to the clients of members of the UIAGM/BMG by -  ‘Jon’ Jon de Montjoye (UIAGM) takes the cake (he seems to be very familier with the subject – probably an expert on being certified barking**). In 1997, advertising by the UIAGM/BMG was withdrawn from a specialist magazine; High magazine  by the Trading Standards Authority after a widow finally won her court case – seven years after the avoidable death of her husband in – another avoidable guided, climbing accident. At the time of her husbands death, the UIAGM/BMG advert was offering: ‘Adventure with Security, why chance everything, on anything less. Our Logo is your – guarantee… We have a comprehensive insurance scheme’, - try claiming on it. After compensation was finally awarded (after seven years – 1990-1997) an Appeal was actually considered. ** Quote on currant ukclimbing Forum – Afghan Guides: ‘By comparison, a guide (UIAGM) in the French Alps has to train for several years before being – certified.’ In a 2001 Review of the Climbers Club, West Cornwall guidebook, a reviewer wrote and the Climbers Club  printed: ‘Without wishing to rekindle the controversy (Cornish) I think the politics of the Edwards saga should have been toned down even more and that the – fine and extensive contribution made by Roland and Mark should stand without slur’… Finite rock, future climbers? Who needs in excess of 500 new routes (many of the them damaged) under their belt?

http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/journal/original/2001%20Journal-p123-144.pdf  Page 139.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=416516

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=419492

 I will call him Andy due to the typical action shown by the likes of Montjoye)  Andy e-mailed me dated the 12 Oct, 2009 and states: “Hi Dennis, absolutely amazing site, well researched and gives answers and food for thought on so many mountaineering related topics. I served as an ML1 in the Royal Marines Mountain and Arctic Warfare cadre now retired but made a living as an independent guide, mostly taking clients to Nepal and South America. I would often go to PyB to refresh first aid etc., etc, the reception I got (when they knew I took folks away without their approval (lol) was sometimes very, very annoying. life is strange hey mate? I guided and instructed for over 40 years and never lost a client or called out Mountain Rescue. Keep up the site. I genuinely know where you are coming from – ‘ it all wants saying’. Certainly, there is a Question-mark hanging over certain UIAGM activities including involvement in the above controversy.

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Bolts, Burgers – Chips Curtousy of the BMC

Saturday, July 3rd, 2010

July, 2010:  True to its headlong love affair with bolting, against the wishes of the vast majority of British climbers, the British Mountaineering Council  has invited people (I won’t call them – climbers) to attend a ‘bolt placing bash’ (with maybe some chipping practice thrown in)  at Frogmouth Quarry (a wonderful climbing venue) which will include refreshments on the 18 July, 2010. At least the burgers & chips, will not be a waste of money. Toileting will no doubt be – well covered.

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Another Mountain Client Left to Die..

Wednesday, June 2nd, 2010

Daily Mail, Wed, June 2, 2010: ‘British mountaineer left to die on Everest.’ Another mountain clients was left to die on Mount Everest when Peter Kinloch was apparently, abandoned during his descent of the mountain. Not for the first time a client who had become blind through altitude was left to his fate. Just two weeks before, a thirteen year old successfully climbed and returned safely from the same summit. Several years ago, another mountain client, Mike Rheinbereger,  became ‘snow-blind’ above the ‘Second Step’ , near the summit of Everest. Unable to descend the vertical step, his guide, who had abseiled, descended ahead of his client, left him; was told by radio, to leave him behind. The guide should remain behind the client, roped to him, ready to give any assistance. Otherwise, they should not be up there… In 1995, my client fell into a ‘bottomless’ crevasse on the Kalhetner Glacier, Mount McKinley and his ‘pulk’; his fully laden sledge followed him in. I had to get him out alone, there was nobody else in-sight. I had to get him out – or go in with him -there was no thought of – cutting the rope; leaving him behind. By the time the Park Rangers arrives (called up on the radio – not easy with one hand holding the rope) one hour later, I had him safely out. If you can’t climb-right don’t climb, otherwise, someone is going to die…

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Whilst Feathering its Own Nest with Government Handouts…

Friday, May 28th, 2010

Not for the first time, the so-called British Mountaineering Council (BMC) has interfered with others offering services to climbers. In 2001, the BMC threatened to sue Rockfax: http://rockfax.com/alanjames/2007/11/08/relections-on-the-guidbook-debate-of-2001 being a typical example. Rockfax of course, does not received government subsidies (as does the BMC) to waste on threatening others… Or, BMC Loans.?

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A Triumph for Common Sense?!

Thursday, May 20th, 2010

‘A Triumph for Common Sense’ was the heading of an article by Stephen Venables in Mountain Notes, High Magazine, March, 1996: ‘Three times in my life I have broken bones. On each occasion the accident was caused by an anchor falling (failing). Two of these anchors were placed by me – one when I was very young, climbing my first HVS rock climb, and the other much more recently when I should have known better, the memory of both still makes me cringe with embarrassment. The third was placed by friends on Panch Chuli V and when it failed I very nearly died. It certainly never occurred to me to blame my companions for the accident, because as far as I was concerned, we were all sharing the responsibility for that difficult abseil descent, well aware that climbing is not a totally predictable, scientific discipline. On a remote Himalayan peak – and to some extent in the comparatively controlled environment of a British outcrop – we venture into an intrinsically dangerous situation where human error or just sheer bad luck can have disastrous consequences. We are responsible for ourselves and if something goes wrong there is no one else to blame.

I always assumed that most climbers concurred with these sentiments, until the ’80s. It was then that the legendary, inventive American gear manufacturer, Yvon Chouinard announced he was quitting his hardwear business because of the increase threat of litigation and it was in 1989 that I met the parents of the American woman who sued a famous boot manufacturer because she got frostbite on top of Mt McKinley. At the time I was too polite (or cowardly) to say anything, and I still regret not expressing my contempt for the kind of mentality which assumes that someone else can always be blamed – and forced to pay huge sums – for one’s own misfortunes.

The bad news is that that mentality has now crossed the Atlantic and **tried to worm its way into the British climbing community. The good news is that a recent judge in the High Court seems to have nipped it very firmly in the bud. Just before Christmas (1995), Judge Diana Cotton QC dismissed all claims of negligence against the well-known British Mountain Guide ‘Cubby’ Cuthbertson who was being sued by his student (client), Peter Pope.

For those who are not familiar with the Association of British Mountain Guides, it should be pointed out that they set themselves scrupulous standards, as high, and some would say higher, than any of their European colleagues in the Alpine countries. Few pass first time through the stringent series of tests in rock climbing, Scottish winter climbing and skiing, not to mention First Aid, navigation, cliff rescue and, most important of all, the wholesale business of caring for the safety of a client. Their sheer professionalism was brought home to me a few years ago when I was involved in a television event on Ben Nevis. Everything was set up in advance by the guides. Knots I’d never heard of were second nature to them and they moved about the hill with the kind of unerring competence you just don’t achieve through occasional weekend visits. Avalanche conditions were assessed and re-assessed, there were safety ropes wherever you looked and the belays could have held the QEII.

It so happened that one of the guides employed by the BBC that day was Cubby Cuthbertson. The impression I got, confirmed by what I have read and heard from others who know him much better, is a rather quiet, modest, extremely competent mountaineer, who at that stage was pushing his own climbing to the limit, on rock, on ice and on the competition circuit, but who could put all that ambition to one side while he was guiding, concentrating 100% on the welfare of his clients.

It was not log after that that he took Peter Pope rock climbing. Pope seems to have enjoyed his introduction to the sport, hiring Cuthbertson for a second and then a third rock climbing trip. It was on the third day of the third trip that Cuthbertson finally allowed his student (client) to have a go at leading. Pope had seconded routes up to HVS standard and, with Cuthbertson first checking out all the gear placements he (Pope) now successfully led a V Diff, followed by a severe, also checked in advanced. Then Cuthbertson let Pope have a little more rein and select his own gear to lead another V Diff. This time Pope fell, ripped out all his runners (protection)  and hit the ground, suffering wrist and spinal injuries. In hospital he set about suing his guide for negligence and, at the end of last year, the case finally came to court.

There was considerable pressure on Cuthbertson to settle out of court. If he had lost the case, Sun Alliance, insurers to the Association of British Mountain Guides, could have been forced to cough up anything up to £3/4million. Rocket ting insurance premiums thereafter could have threatened the whole future of guiding (and indeed, all outdoor instruction) and Cuthbertson’s own career would have been irrevocably damaged. One can see the temptation to settle for a discreet compromise, avoiding all the humiliation, embarrassment and risk of appearing in the High Court… To be continued

** ‘American litigation tried to worm its way into British climbing and failed.’ Really!  At the same time as the Pope v Cuthbertson (Cubby) court-case there was already another (since 1990) accident going to court; in the offering Hedley v Cuthbertson (Smiler) after Gerry Hedley, client of the Association of British Mountain Guides died when he was pulled from the North face of the Tour Ronde in 1990 when his guide fell whilst leading. His widow, waited seven years until 1997 before finally being compensated for her loss bringing up as she had, the baby; the son who Gerry Hedley never saw.  After finally winning her court-case, an Appeal against her was actually considered. At the time of Peter Popes avoidable accident; at the time of both accidents (and there were more) the Association of British Mountain Guides was advertising that: ‘Their training and International Qualification is your – safe guarantee. Why chance everything on anything less?’Gerry Hedley would have tried his best to hold his falling guide – until his single, ice-screw belay failed – and his widow was made to wait – seven years! Gerry Hedley should have been left, tied to at least, two ice-screws and two, well placed ice axes above him, they also, should have been tied into his belay.

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Italian mountain guide dies falling off church steeple

Monday, May 3rd, 2010

28 April, 2010: Marco Da Pozzo, UIAGM/IFMGA  guide was killed after falling from the church steeple in the chic ski resort of Cortina D’Ampezzo in the Dolomite’s during a routine maintenance operation – changing light-bulbs.

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BMC (British Mountaineeering Council) Bolts do not grow on trees

Monday, February 22nd, 2010

Its official:  http://upload.pbase.com/images/122148350/original

http://www.thebmc.co.uk/Feature.aspx?id=1928

During the ‘planting’ of a myriad of expansion bolts in the floor of Horseshoe Quarry ‘particular care had been taken not to damage any interesting – coral-bed-fossil features.’ As one wag put it: ‘BMC bolts do not grow on trees’, how true. If you cannot climb? Bolt!And don’t forget to practice your – chipping – another great climbing aid. Members of the BMC, damaging cliffs and crags for – real climbers.

 http://www.cumbriaboltfund.com/CUMBRIA_BOLT_FUND/Photos.html(to put them in or take um out?)shows quite well the mess that BMC bolts are creating across the UK. Myriads of young men; potential climbers who actually believe that ‘falling off with impunity’ onto expansion bolts is – climbing… All thanks to the totally discredited; so called, British Mountaineering Council. Since 1993 members of the BMC have been bolting cliffs and crags from Lands End to the Highlands of Scotland (against the wishes of the vast majority of British climbers): Simon Tong, Climber magazine, 1993: ‘When I visited Cornwall on November 28, 1992, Carn Vellan, the natural slate cliff on the Penwith north coast, had 35 bolts. To my knowledge bolt holes and bolts have now been drilled on the killas/greenstone cliffs of Gunards head and Carn Vellas and on the granite of Sennen, Lands End, Pordinack, Porth Lee, Chair Ladder and Cribba Head. This has taken place against the wishes of the majority of climbers, without discussion, reasoned debate or consideration of any opposing point of view. The identity and soul of these splendid sea cliffs has been changed irrevocably. I find it incredible that Jim Perrin chose not address these issues in his recent profile of two of the area’s leading activists – Roland and Mark Edwards. Climbing ability, green consciousness, or being “jolly nice guys” cannot justify their actions. Jim Perrin’s article will not cloud the fact – bolts are now (the majority since removed) widespread on West Cornwall cliffs. Local climbers have tried to represent the views of the majority of climbers nationally, and have been met with accusations of spitefulness and abuse. It is now clear that if  ‘real climbing’ in West Cornwall is to survive action by other climbers will have to be taken. Without action the future of climbing in Cornwall (in the UK) is all too clear.’ And don’t forget, chipping climbs needs real cunning which comes with practice. Apparently, some members of the BMC are very good at it, have been for years: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=416516

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Grave Concern

Friday, November 21st, 2008

Grave Concern:Apparently, it is absolute chaos out there ( a bit of extra snow this winter 2010): with a climber dying per day in Scotland this winter: http://www.outdoorsmagic.com/news/articles/mps/uan/5895     UIAGM/IFMGA guides not only believe that only they, are allowed  to “guide for gain”; that only they, are allowed to loose clients for gain: http://outdoors.caladonianmercury.com/2010/03/01/avalanche-victims-were-with-mountain-guide-company/0034  (Jagged Globe client, Robert Pritchard killed in Glencoe avalanche on the 24 Feb, 2010 along with winter mountaineering instructor)Not only did Graham and Jennie Davies (their son Phillip died 16 days after the 1992 BMG Eiger debacle) not receive back, Phillips course fees, they were also upset that all their sons climbing equipment - went missing. Independent mountain guides have worked for decades in Europe, for gain i.e. for money along side, working for their ‘UIAGM – friends’ certainly in the 1992 Eiger debacle when three BMG clients were killed, three clients (out of eight clients) who were being lead by – two Independent guides working for their UIAGM/IFMGA – overall leader. Now on one hand, this is illegal on main-land Europe then on the other hand, is not.? As Jennie Davies wrote to me twice: ‘Dennis, will we ever have peace in our hearts?’ There was no – concern for Graham and Jennie then and certainly, no concern - now. In 1998, Phillips rucksack was found by climbers on the West Flank of the Eiger where it had lain; been left, seven years before. Graham and Jennie did not received back; were not re-payed their son’s course fees.

 

alun – alun@alunrichardson.co.uk (UIAGM/IFMGA): was soo concerned that I had got my facts wrong, that he e-mailed me on Sept 30th, 2009: ‘Well your a man on a mission ( as is Mr Graham Davies who’s son Phillip died in 1992 – mentioned above; as are numerous parents of deceased children, clients of the BMG / UIAGM / IFMGA) shame ‘all’ of your facts are wrong and your assumptions mistaken. I have never read such drivel, if you want to discuss the ‘facts’ give someone a ring instead of ‘making it all up’. Claude ray (there, I even spelt Claude Rey’s name wrong) fell off a ladder outside a hut, the Swiss military soldiers were not guide by UIAGM guides (who have already received SFr 75,000 and SFr 90,000 respectively) but military ones…too name a few of your mistakes.’ So there you have it, the Swiss UIAGM/IFMGA President and mountain guide and safety specialist, fell off a ladder near a hut and not into a crevasse unroped dying from his injuries. And according to alun, Swiss military mountain guides do not have to be – UIAGM/IFMGA  http://pistehors.com/news/ski/comments/0746-president-of-the-uiagm-killed-by-crevasse-fall Now I have tried putting: president-of-the-uiagm-killed-by-fall-off-ladder, into google.com and – nothing comes up? On the 24 August, 2009, a UIAGM/IFMGA qualified guide (French) fell and was killed on the Italian side of the Matterhorn, the fall was held by the client who then called for rescue. Who actually looks after UIAGM clients when their guide gets it wrong?

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/europe/italy/7639306/Italian-mountaineer-dies-falling-off-church-steeple.html

Concerned also: ‘Keep up the site’, On Monday 12 Oct, 2009: Unnamed by me because of the past, dangerous antics of members of the UIAGM / IFMGA towards their competition, an e-mail arrived: ‘Dennis, an absolutely amazing site, well researched and gives answers and food for thought on so many mountaineering related topics. I served as an ML1 in the Royal Marines Mountain and Arctic Cadre. Now retired but made a living as an independent guide, mostly taking UK clients to Nepal and South America. I would often go to Plas y Brenin to refresh first aid etc., etc, the reception I got (when they knew I took folks away without their (UIAGM) approval (lol) was sometimes very very annoying. I guided for over 40 years and never lost a client, or called out Mountain rescue – keep up the site. I genuinely know where you are coming from, ‘it all wants saying’…’ That unnamed independent guide, has not, subsequently asked me to remove his unsolicited e-mail from this site.

The following letter (I have not cleared this with alun yet, but I distinctly remember the magazine article, because I have a copy) was published in Climber & Rambler magazine in 1988 by Mr S. Mitchell: ”The Association of British Mountain Guides (BMG) has asked me to write to warn your readers about people posing as mountain guides. We are  – very concerned – that any member of the public is subjected to an inferior and probably dangerous service by someone who may call himself a mountain guide. To operate with an unqualified guide… may easily result in the loss of hard-earned holiday money.” To my knowledge (up to 2009) only one climber posing as a mountain guide (he was working for a UIAGM / IFMGA guide in Switzerland at the time – 1992) has lost not only his clients hard-earned money, but his three clients also lost their lives. But, an unacceptable number of UIAGM / IFMGA clients have also lost not only hard-earned holiday money, but also their hard-earned lives since that letter was published in 1988. Now you can see where this is going. According to Alun (UIAGM?IFMGA)the six Swiss soldiers who died on the Jungfrau in 2007 were in fact being lead by - bogus mountain guides!

Court Dates Announced for 2007 UIAGM Guiding Accident: http://www.swissinfo.ch/eng/swiss_news/Court_dates_annonced_for_army_accidents.html?siteSect=204&sid=11196476sty=nd

Just received (4 Sept 09) an e-mail from UIAGM/IFMGA Murray Hamilton: ‘Nice site. Yes accidents happen in the mountains, that is true. Do you have a solution? I do, but it is only to stay at home. I am open to other answers though. It could help us all. Kind Regards, Murray Hamilton. There is also grave concern amongst ‘other qualified mountain guides’ in Europe after it was revealed that at least 11 of their members (UIAGM / IFMGA) have been killed in climbing / mountaineering accidents since November, 2008. The Chamonix website of course makes very little mention as to the fate of the UIAGM / IFMGA clients involved in the accidents… Comment by Dennis Morrod, 15:00h, August 30, 2009. He returned from Chamonix on the 28 August, after observing current mountain safety techniques being employed by the local guides - clients being allowed to abseiling off the end of rappel ropes and poor belaying (to loose blocks) seeming to be the preferred method of hastening death when climbing in the French Alps in 2009. http://www.chamonix.net/english/news/2009-08-13.htm

On the 24 August, 2009 a UIAGM/IFMGA mountain guide was killed in a fall on the Italian side of the Matterhorn his French clients was left holding the body (having arrested the fall). Who looks after the client – stuck alone at 4,200 meters? There is grave concern…

One Day On Everestwas a gathering of climbers in America, mountain guides etc, the outcome of which, was the raising of funds for the deceased guide, Scott Ficshers family. Scott Ficsher along with several clients, lost his life on Everest in 1996. This noble act, the American gathering, was overshadowed by just one fact. Nobody has ever raised money for the, just as unfortunate families, of deceased – mount clients. The clients of mountain guides also have – families, many of them also have dependent children.

Eric Ellis, International Journalist, 8th April, 2009: http://www.spectator.co.uk/business/the-magazine/connoisseur/3524271/everest-a-risky-business.thtml

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