Can’t Climb? Bolt! BMC Bolt & Chipping Workshop’s
Monday, June 2nd, 2008
There Is More Trouble Ath Mill (16 March, 2005): Apparently, there is more trouble in Manchester when surprised members of the so-called British Mountaineering Council (BMC) found out that the BMC had squandered another, 12,000 pounds sterling on a Scottish winter climbing – jolly – for visiting climbing prima donnas. The representative, but would be, governing body of British climbing (the organisation represents just one percent of British climbers / hill goers) has gained a reputation for squandering – other peoples money and in a number of instances, loosing considerable amounts in failed project’s and financially dubious schemes (approximately 150,000 pounds sterling annually in recent years according to articles in specialist magazines). There was no surprise recently (2nd December, 2004) when a rotund, ex-climber, mountaineer was chosen as the new President of the UIAA, the Alpine Union. More details on page 4…
There was also shock, anger and outrage after it was revealed that mountain clients are endangering – mountain guides!: “We all thought they were experienced and competent in all aspects of – guide care.” A commentator has recently accused mountain clients of being responsible for the death’s of their guide’s (strange that, because we have on our record’s that only two BMG guide have ever been killed whilst with a client. In one instance, the guide had unroped from his client before the fatal avalanche killed him.? There was no similar shock, or anger, when on the 14 July, 2003, six clients were killed in an ice avalanche on the Grand Mulets glacier, their guide de haut montagne as usual, survived. One commentator stated that: “This accident, which happened on a classic itinerary, used by numerous climbers every day, cannot be attributed to error or imprudence…” Really! In a Chamonix alpine season, one of the worst in living memory (the author has been climbing in Chamonix since 1958) where unprecedented rock and and ice avalanches have prevailed since late June; in a season that saw, Mont Blanc ‘put out of bounds’; guides taking groups of clients into such conditions were in fact, asking for trouble. Just three weeks later, 32 ‘lemmings’ were air-lifted from the Gouter hut because the Ridge/Couloir was far to dangerous to descend/recross… On the 30 June, 2004, Aspirant (to guide under BMG / IFMGA Limitations and under the guidance of a fully qualified BMG guide), British Mountain Guide Jules Cartwright and his female client, Ms Julie Calverd, roped together, fell to their deaths from the reletively easy, alternative approach to the Cassin Route – 900meter Alpine North (North-East) Face (something happened) on the Piz Badile. Another BMG guide (possibly the fully qualified guide) and his client were at the same time airlifted from the mountain. Whilst the BMC immediately compiled and raised to its website an extensive, glowing accolade to Mr Cartwright, Ms Colverd the unfortunate client, is merely mentioned in passing. Apparently, Mr Cartwright had not climbed the Cassin Route on the Piz Badile, prior to this guided attempt. As a mountain client/ potential mountain client, your safety has been further eroded by the comments of Sir C. Bonington in the Guardian (October 2003): “it is important that guidelines are not solidified into – regulations.” Really! He was commenting because the British commercial, climbing establishment is faced with new Health & Safety Executive – Work at Height Legislation which they do not want introduced. Why? Even though numerous BMG and some AMI clients have been killed and injured whilst being instructed / guided at a height, they are determined not to incorporate new legislation into their – world. He went on to say: “There is a danger that regulations stifle not only initiative, but also effects risk management by individual climbers.” The very legislation that the BMC was determined to introduce via – climbing qualifications. Fifty years ago the embryonic BMC was warned about introducing climbing / leader qualifications because: Legislation stifles initiave. Legislation in the wrong hands in climbing, has also brought about the premature deaths of numerous – mountain clients… That Sir C. Bonington who appeared on the front cover of a climbing magazine in full colour in a rock climbing pose whilst not wearing a safety helmet (sending out the wrong message to young readers) wrote of the new Safety Directive: ´…common sense has not prevailed…´, speaks volumes about the level of common sense in the British climbing establishment when it comes to – safety.
Category : Bolts
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