BMC Bolts do not grow on trees – after all.
Monday, February 22nd, 2010
Its official, BMC bolts do not ‘grow on trees’: http://upload.pbase.com/images/122148350/original
http://www.pataclimb.com/knowledge/articles/CTbolts.html The Rape of a Mountain (Cerro Torre) by a UIAGM/IFMGA mountain guide with the use of a petrol driven compresssor to place in excess of 300 expansion bolts – controversy. The lies and the cunning…
http://www.thebmc.co.uk/Feature.aspx?id=1928
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=434550
During the ‘planting’ of a myriad of expansion bolts into important Prehistoric Sediment in the floor of Horseshoe Quarry ‘particular care had been taken not to damage the interesting – coral-bed-fossil features.’? As one wag put it: ‘BMC bolts do not grow on trees’, how true. If you cannot climb? Bolt! And don’t forget to practice your – chipping – another great climbing aid. Members of the BMC, damaging cliffs and crags for – real climbers. For 2011 (in 2007, the BMC flooded the UK climbing scene with 10,000 free, expansion bolts) the BMC has offered £20,000 of bolts in a bidding war. The’ winning project’ will no doubt have to prove just who can cause the biggest amount of deliberate damage to un quarried rock across the UK. The BMC, no doubt funding the West Penwith, Carn Vellan fiasco with new; replacement bolts as and when required.
http://www.cumbriaboltfund.com/CUMBRIA_BOLT_FUND/Photos.html(to put them in or take um out?)shows quite well the mess that BMC bolts are creating across the UK. Myriads of young men; potential climbers who actually believe that ‘falling off with impunity’ onto expansion bolts is – climbing… All thanks to the totally discredited; so called, British Mountaineering Council. Since the 1980′s members of the BMC have been bolting cliffs and crags from Lands End to the Highlands of Scotland (against the wishes of the vast majority of British climbers): Simon Tong, Climber magazine, 1993: ‘When I visited Cornwall on November 28, 1992, Carn Vellan, the natural slate cliff on the Penwith north coast, had 35 bolts. To my knowledge bolt holes and bolts have now been drilled on the killas/greenstone cliffs of Gunards head and Carn Vellas and on the granite of Sennen, Lands End, Pordinack, Porth Lee, Chair Ladder and Cribba Head. This has taken place against the wishes of the majority of climbers, without discussion, reasoned debate or consideration of any opposing point of view. The identity and soul of these splendid sea cliffs has been changed irrevocably. I find it incredible that Jim Perrin chose not to address these issues in his recent profile of two of the area’s leading activists – Roland and Mark Edwards. Climbing ability, green consciousness, or being “jolly nice guys” cannot justify their actions. Jim Perrin’s article will not cloud the fact – bolts are now (the majority since removed) widespread on West Cornwall cliffs. Local climbers have tried to represent the views of the majority of climbers nationally, and have been met with accusations of spitefulness and abuse. It is now clear that if ‘real climbing’ in West Cornwall is to survive action by other climbers will have to be taken. Without action the future of climbing in Cornwall (in the UK) is all too clear.’ Don’t forget, placing bolts and chipping climbs needs real cunning which comes with practice. Apparently, some members of the BMC/BMG are very good at it, have been for years: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=416516
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=424956 Mountain guides have festooned some of the finest mountains of the world when it has suited; when it suits their purpose – of making it easier for them to work… It is to be hoped that any fatal accident at this spot in the future on Ben Nevis will lead to another UIAGM/IFMGA mountain guide in court.
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