Pete Livesey 1943 -1998 What Climbing Has Become
Wednesday, November 30th, 2011
http://www.ehow.com/how_8184445_homemade-climbing-rocks.html The only way that climbing will reach Olympic Standards re: watching paint dry.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=446843 ’We love the environment sooo much – we bolt it.’ BMG/UIAGM/IFMGA guides.
There’s a certain irony in that 32 years after he made the first free-ascent of Clink (7a), in Trow Gill, the climb was – over-bolted (in 2004). There was of course, no way that Pete could have been ask for his opinion; his permission prior to the debacle, as he died in 1998. http://www.rockfax.com/databases/dates.php?crag=40 List of over-bolted trad climbs at Trow Gill. There are more than enough names on the enclosed list for the probable bolting-culprits to be identified. There is no further information as to how the remainder of the climbs at Trow Gill were – rigged, frigged and top-roped etc., etc, prior to a supposed ascent.
Pete Livesey in 1972 and Anaud Petit in 2011 were/are capable of climbing all of the climbs listed at Trow Gill, without bolt protection.
In the mid-1980′s Pete telephoned me: “Hi Dennis in answer to your advert asking for information as to how many companies were written to by the British Mountaineering Council (Dennis Gray), telling them to change the content of their advertising, the ‘circular’ was sent to just – three companies.” The circular did not go to the Asssociation of British Mountain Guides (BMG – our qualification is your ‘guarantee’…), advertising eventually removed from High magazine by Trading Standards in 1997.
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