Web Journal
Saturday, February 18th, 2012
16/04/2012: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=502128 A medal (or maybe a little blue plaque) for the guy who removed most rock – by drilling.
http://www.guidesource.com/learning-aids/local-accident-statistics/ Possible five year ban for ski guide…
High Mountain Ethics: http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/pages/frontline/everest/etc/roundtable.html
March 14, 2012: There was shock and horror today: http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/entertainment-arts-17364327 when Bear Grylls, ex-SAS – Territorial, top man in the Scouts and long standing friend (in the Alpine-Club) of Henry Barclay Todd (ex-drug baron and the Mount Everest’s Toddfather) was apparently sacked by the Discovery Channel…
Why would anyone wish to climb the – tainted Cerro Torre Compressor Route when the awesome, popular Casarotti Pillar on Fitzroy is on offer? Jan, 16th, 2012.
Everest (2012), a risky business – for some: http://www.allbusiness.com/company-activities-management/company-structures/16278457-1.html Don’t expect your guide to summit with you – don’t expect your guide – to loose out financially.
http://www.independent.co.uk/news/death-in-the-alps-and-a-sons-claim-for-the-father-he-never-knew-1256532.html 18th June, 1997: The wide-reaching effects of BMG advertising: ‘We are sooo concerned that some people are calling themselves – mountain guides.’ So wrote the BMG representative.
Date19/04/2011: ‘European Directive to be completed in 1996 – in Pounds Sterling…’ http://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/article.aspx?id=4230 The Mountain Training Trust (PyB) was chosen after: ‘an intensive review and competitive tender’, in – 1997 (after lobbying government in order to ruin the original, preferred tender – Glendale Leisure’s position) to run Plas-y-Brenin (new 15 year con-tract signed with the quango – Sport England) without any further ‘competitive tendering’. Don’t miss the Brenin Cake Festival and ‘world famous’ Brenin Ales.
Date: 11/02/2002
Headline: BMG Guide – not to blame?
Story: Climber, March, 2001
A Scottish Sheriff found that the member of the BMG who took six inexperienced Venture Scouts into avalanche conditions on Aonach More on the 29 December – 1998, was – not to blame for four of their deaths? The guide as usual – survived. The Sheriff did question why the basic practice (for most mountaineers) of leaving details regarding the parties destination – had been disregarded…? Once again, a BMG guide who enticed clients into winter conditions in the face of an avalanche warning, was found to be – not at fault. Unlike his clients and their ‘dependents’, the guide has continued with his career.
It is certain that the Sheriff, only received ‘expert’ guidance; information regarding other similar fatal accidents to BMG clients from – other members of the BMG or, the BMC, that other autonomous mountaineering organisation.
The Association of Mountain Clients offered the Sheriff – alternative arguments by post but, they were – for some reason, not called to give alternative information about other avoidable deaths to BMG clients…
Because of the delaying tactics employed as usual, the relatives have just seven months left in which to make a claim against the BMG’s – comprehensive insurance scheme.? After another BMG Fatal Accident Inquiry, the local MSP complained that these inquiries were taking far too long.
Apparently, nothing has changed…
Date: 11/02/2002
Headline: The Oldest Aspirant Guide
Story: The Daily Telegraph on the 23 January, 2001, printed a ‘letter’ from John Barry. He was correcting another letter writer who maintained that he, the other letter writer, was the youngest Briton to climb Everest. Barry mentioned that even though Michael Matthews disappeared whilst descending the mountain he be accredited with the ascent as one of the youngest to climb Everest.
I only hope that neither Mr Matthews senior or, a Mr G. Davies read Mr Barry’s letter. Mr Matthews and Mr Davies know each other, both have lost son’s who were under the protection of – BMG lead climbing expeditions both, know about Mr Barry.
Graham Davies son died in his mothers arms after 19 days in a coma, after the fall that badly injured him and, killed two other mountain clients on the 25 July, 1992. The leader of Phillip Davies expedition – Mr J. Barry. The leader of Phillip’s rope, Jan Rowe
Date: 11/02/2002
Headline: Mal Duff Refused to Join the British Mountain guides
Story: According to The Daily Telegraph on April 29, 1997, sadly, Mal Duff died at Everest base Camp (the reason why, will always remain a mystery). At the height of his powers, Mal is supposed to have died in his sleep. The Obituary, continues: ‘Although he earned his living taking clients into the mountains, he never showed any interest in becoming a certified (by who’s standards?) member of the Association of British Mountain guides. This drew criticism from some quarters, by Mal was untroubled by it. Affable and charismatic, he rose above it all, and his clients returned to him time and again, unconcerned by the fact that his business lacked official endorsement.’ Mal Duff, had few peers…
Date: 11/02/2002
Headline: Rolling Contract for the MMT from 1999.
Story: According to the minutes of the ninth Meeting in 1999, members of the English Sports Council voted on a paper (ESC 99/9.3) which outlined proposed changes to the contractual position at Plas-y-Brenin (given to the British Mountaineering Council (BMC) and the Association of British Mountain Guides (BMG) a commercial organisation with less than a perfect safety record where its mountain clients are concerned, for nil consideration in 1997) the National Mountain Centre. The purpose of the changes was to – strengthen the capability of Mountain Training Trust Ltd (cobbled together in order to control not only the management of PyB but to also control £450,000 per annum of government hand-outs) in carrying out operations at the centre Mr Marshall con-firmed the success that MTT had enjoyed in running the centre (assisted greatly by the above mentions huge amount of government subsidy). Council agreed to the contractual changes, including the introduction of a rolling contract (no doubt in line with another EC Directive?) to 2012, proposals for MTT to retain small surpluses, and the introduction of – more rigorous (capture an even larger slice of the outdoor pursuit market assisted with government money) targets. Council also agreed that the new arrangements should be implemented from 1 October, 1999 and commended John Davies and Ian Holmes, of Sport England’s National Centres Unit, for the excellent work they had undertaken in this (disgraceful) matter. The way in which PyB was given away for nil consideration against an EC Directive and the way in which the management was snatched away from Glendale Leisure (who originally won the contract) and the abuse they then received from the BMC through the pages of its official magazine – High Mountain Sport will be to the eternal disgrace of the English Sports Council… During the previous twenty years, when PyB was also run by members of the BMG, PyB lost 100′s of 1,000′s of £ due to poor management . As a reward – they now have a rolling contract to 2000 and… along with least – £6million with which to compete quite unfairly – on the open market…
Date: 11/02/2002
Headline: Trevor Jones the BMC Critic. High Magazine Feb 1996
Story: ‘Dear Sir, It is not surprising that the government is going to reduce the amount of money given to The Sports Council. The BMC has recklessly squandered tens of thousands of pounds (hundreds of thousands of pounds actually) in the promotion of sport climbing contests. Interest in such events is limited to a small percentage of the mountaineering world. I suggest that if their money to the BMC is drastically cut the BMC should be awarded the shot-in-the-foot prize.’ Trevor would turn-in-his-grave.
Date: 31/12/2001
Headline: Once again, Scottish FAI finds BMG not at fault.
Story: In January, 2001. a Scottish Fatal Accident Inquiry (as usual) finally, two years on, found a member of the Association of British Mountain Guides (BMG) not at fault after – four of his six clients were killed; died whilst entombed in consolidating snow and ice. The web-site of the association: www.bmg.mltb.org still maintains that its members are competent in all aspects of client – care.?? The guide, as usual – survived to work another day. Unlike – his mountain clients…
Date: 31/12/2001
Headline: The Cuthbertson v Hedley Court-Case 1997.
Story: In July 1997, most major newspapers carried, finally, the story of the Cuthberton v Hedley court-case. The judge found in favour of Mrs Hedley and her young son awarding them (her son never knew his father) £200,000 in compensation. Her husband; BMG client Gerry Hedley was killed when his guide fell; trying to arrest the guides fall Mr Hedley was pulled from his belay, from the North Face of the Tour Ronde a North Face ice climb above Chamonix in the French Alps. The guide – as usual survived.
Date: 22/12/2001
Headline: Analysis: Mail on Sunday, 30 January 1994
Story: Nick Fielding wrote a two page article about the deaths of three BMG mountain clients on the West Flank of the Eiger (the tourist descent route) in July, 1992. The BMGguide/s as usual – survived. Whilst the BMG made a show of banning the lead guide involved, he has since been reinstated as a member of the Association of British Mountain; he was for a time, the oldest Aspirant Guide – ever! The dead clients of course, will never work again, their career’s ruined, along with the lose of any potential children and potential grandchildren for the clients parents… The other two guides, Jan Rowe and Dave Halton were never brought to account.
Date: 22/12/2001
Headline: Abseiling is Dangerous
Story: The January 2002 issue of High Mountain Sport (the official magazine of the British Mountaineering Council) contains an article by Andy Kilpatrick (mentioned elsewhere in the same magazine as a new leading light in the British climbing establishment) in which, he states on page 66: ‘Forget all the old twaddle about joining ropes with reef knots and double fisherman’s, just go for the simple overhand knot…’? Abseiling is probably the the most dangerous aspect of climbing when, all of the equipment is stressed. Too many climbers have been killed whilst abseiling including, too many ‘famous’, very experienced climbers. To a man, they made a basic mistake – please don’t make the mistake of following Andy Kilpatrick’s potentially dangerous instructions…
Dennis Morrod
Date: 19/10/2001
Headline: Aconcagua
Story: Richard, Ben thinking about Aconcagua. So of course I thought Guiding Light. from your website I see you are going in Feb/Mar. Unfortunately i have free time end of Dec/Jan, when everyone is on holiday for Christmas. If you are not going then, can you suggest another reputable company I can try? I would rather like to avoid the Smiler Culbertson’s of the world. Thanks, Ian…
Date: 5/10/2001
Headline: Scouts – Criticised for Cavalier Attitude.?
Date: 29/01/2001
Headline: Four Venture Scouts killed in Avalanche-Most Newspapers
Story: On the 30 December 1998, most major newspapers carried the story of six Scouts, clients of the BMG, being taken into avalanche conditions against posted avalanche warning’s. In the ensuing avalanche, four of the venture Scouts; mountain clients were killed; entombed in consolidating snow and ice. Their BMG guide as usual – survived.
Date: 10/09/2001
Headline: Dirty tricks letter from IGO 8000
Story: A ‘full page’ letter has been published in the September, 2001 issue of High Mountain Sport complaining about the service offered by a none member of IGO 8000, Adventure Extreme. Whilst similar letters, complaining about fatal accidents to IGO 8000 clients or climbers on IGO 8000 Permits, those letters have never been published (will never be) published in the same magazine. The letter was sent to the magazine by Steve Bell (it is not known where he got the letter from) a founder member of – IGO 8000…
Mountain Clients – Web journal
Born on: 02/11/2002
Last updated: 02/26/2002 10:22:36
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Date: 11/02/2002
Headline: BMG Guide – not to blame?
Story: Climber, March, 2001
A Scottish Sheriff found that the member of the BMG who took six inexperienced Venture Scouts into avalanche conditions on Aonach More on the 29 December – 1998, was – not to blame for four of their deaths? The guide as usual – survived. The Sheriff did question why the basic practice (for most mountaineers, of leaving details regarding the parties destination – had been disregarded…? Once again, a BMG guide who enticed clients into winter conditions in the face of an avalanche warning, was found to be – not at fault. Unlike his clients and their ‘dependents’, the guide has continued to work and will continue to do so.
It is certain that the Sheriff, only received ‘expert’ guidance; information regarding other similar fatal accidents to BMG clients from – other members of the BMG or, the BMC, that other autonomous mountaineering organisation.
The Association of Mountain Clients offered the Sheriff – alternative arguments by post but, they were – for some reason, not called to give alternative information about other avoidable deaths to paying, BMG clients…
Because of the delaying tactics employed as usual, the relatives have just seven months left in which to make a claim against the BMG’s – comprehensive insurance scheme.? After another BMG Fatal Accident Inquiry, the local MSP complained that these inquiries were taking far too long.
Apparently, nothing has changed…
Date: 11/02/2002
Headline: The Oldest Aspirant Guide
Story: The Daily Telegraph on the 23 January, 2001, printed a ‘letter’ from John Barry. He was correcting another letter writer who maintained that he, the other letter writer, was the youngest Briton to climb Everest. Barry mentioned that even though Michael Matthews disappeared whilst descending the mountain he be accredited with the ascent as one of the youngest to climb Everest.
I only hope that neither Mr Matthews senior or, a Mr G. Davies read Mr Barry’s letter. Mr Matthews and Mr Davies know each other, both have lost son’s who were under the protection of – BMG lead climbing expeditions both, know about Mr Barry.
Graham Davies son died in his mothers arms after 19 days in a coma, after the fall that badly injured him and, killed two other mountain clients on the 25 July, 1992. The leader of Phillip Davies expedition – Mr J. Barry. The leader of Phillip’s rope, Jan Rowe
Date: 11/02/2002
Headline: Mal Duff Refused to Join the British Mountain guides
Story: According to The Daily Telegraph on April 29, 1997, sadly, Mal Duff died at Everest base Camp (the reason why, will always remain a mystery). At the height of his powers, Mal is supposed to have died in his sleep. The Obituary, continues: ‘Although he earned his living taking clients into the mountains, he never showed any interest in becoming a certified (by who’s standards?) member of the Association of British Mountain guides. This drew criticism from some quarters, but Mal was untroubled by it. Affable and charismatic, he rose above it all, and his clients returned to him time and again, unconcerned by the fact that his business lacked official endorsement.’ Mal Duff, had few peers…
Date: 11/02/2002
Headline: Rolling Contract for the MMT from 1999.
Story: According to the minutes of the ninth Meeting in 1999, members of the English Sports Council voted on a paper (ESC 99/9.3) which outlined proposed changes to the contractual position at Plas-y-Brenin (given to the British Mountaineering Council (BMC) and the Association of British Mountain Guides (BMG) a commercial organisation with less than a perfect safety record where its mountain clients are concerned, for nil consideration in 1997) the National Mountain Centre. The purpose of the changes was to – strengthen the capability of Mountain Training Trust Ltd (cobbled together in order to control not only the management of PyB but to also control £450,000 per annum of government hand-outs) in carrying out operations at the centre Mr Marshall con-firmed the success that MTT had enjoyed in running the centre (assisted greatly by the above mentions huge amount of government subsidy). Council agreed to the contractual changes, including the introduction of a rolling contract (no doubt in line with another EC Directive?) to 2006, proposals for MTT to retain small surpluses, and the introduction of – more rigorous (capture an even larger slice of the outdoor pursuit market assisted with government money) targets. Council also agreed that the new arrangements should be implemented from 1 October, 1999 and commended John Davies and Ian Holmes, of Sport England’s National Centres Unit, for the excellent work thay had undertaken in this (disgraceful) matter. The way in which PyB was given away for nil consideration against an EC Directive and the way in which the management was snatched away from Glendale Leisure (who originally won the contract) and the abuse they then received from the BMC through the pages of its official magazine – High Mountain Sport will be to the eternal disgrace of the English Sports Council… During the previous twenty years, when PyB was also run by members of the BMG, PyB lost 100′s of 1,000′s of £ due to poor management . As a reward – they now have a rolling contract to 2012 along with least – £6 million with which to compete quite unfairly – on the open market…
Date: 11/02/2002
Headline: Trevor Jones the BMC Critic. High Magazine Feb 1996
Story: Dear Sir, It is not surprising that the government is going to reduce the amount of money given to The Sports Council. The BMC has recklessly squandered tens of thousands of pounds (hundreds of thousands of pounds actually) in the promotion of sport climbing contests. Interest in such events is limited to a small percentage of the mountaineering world. I suggest that if their money to the BMC is drastically cut the BMC should be awarded the shot-in-the-foot prize.
Date: 31/12/2001
Headline: Once again, Scottish FAI finds BMG not at fault.
Story: In January, 2001. a Scottish Fatal Accident Inquiry (as usual) finally, two years on, found a member of the Association of British Mountain Guides (BMG) not at fault after – four of his six clients were killed; died whilst entombed in consolidating snow and ice. The web-site of the association: www.bmg.mltb.org still maintains that its members are competent in all aspects of client – care.?? The guide, as usual – survived to work another day. Unlike – his mountain clients…
Date: 31/12/2001
Headline: The Cuthbertson v Hedley Court-Case 1997.
Story: In July 1997, most major newspapers carried, finally, the story of the Cuthberton v Hedley court-case. The judge found in favour of Mrs Hedley and her young son awarding them (her son never knew his father) £200,000 in compensation. Her husband; BMG client Gerry Hedley was killed when his guide fell; pulling Mr Hedley, from the North Face of the Tour Ronde a North Face ice climb above Chamonix in the French Alps. The guide – as usual survived.
Date: 22/12/2001
Headline: Analysis: Mail on Sunday, 30 January 1994
Story: Nick Fielding wrote a two page article about the deaths of three BMG mountain clients on the West Flank of the Eiger (the tourist descent route) in July, 1992. The BMGguide/s as usual – survived. Whilst the BMG made a show of banning the lead guide involved, he has since been reinstated as a member of the Association of British Mountain; he was for a time, the oldest Aspirant Guide – ever! The dead clients of course, will never work again, their career’s ruined, along with the lose of any potential children and potential grandchildren for the clients parents… The other two guides, Jan Rowe and Dave Halton were never brought to account.
Date: 22/12/2001
Headline: Abseiling is Dangerous
Story: The January 2002 issue of High Mountain Sport (the official magazine of the British Mountaineering Council) contains an article by Andy Kilpatrick (mentioned elsewhere in the same magazine as a new leading light in the British climbing establishment) in which, he states on page 66: ‘Forget all the old twaddle about joining ropes with reef knots and double fisherman’s, just go for the simple overhand knot…’?
Abseiling is probably the the most dangerous aspect of climbing when, all of the equipment is stressed. Too many climbers have been killed whilst abseiling including, too many ‘famous’, very experienced climbers. To a man, they made a basic mistake – please don’t make the mistake of following Andy Kirkpatrick’s potentially dangerous instructions – regarding the ‘overhand-knot’ tying (that can unravel) together two ropes for abseiling.
Dennis Morrod
Date: 19/10/2001
Headline: Aconcagua
Story: Richard, Ben thinking about Aconcagua. So of course I thought Guiding Light. from your website I see you are going in Feb/Mar. Unfortunately i have free time end of Dec/Jan, when everyone is on holiday for Christmas. If you are not going then, can you suggest another reputable company I can try? I would rather like to avoid the Smiler Culbertson’s of the world. Thanks, Ian…
Date: 5/10/2001
Headline: Scouts – Criticised for Cavalier Attitude.?
Date: 29/01/2001
Headline: Four Venture Scouts killed in Avalanche-Most Newspapers
Story: On the 30 December 1998, most major newspapers carried the story of six Scouts, clients of the BMG, being taken into avalanche conditions against posted avalanche warning’s. In the ensuing avalanche, four of the venture Scouts; mountain clients were killed; entombed in consolidating snow and ice. Their BMG guide as usual – survived.
Date: 10/09/2001
Headline: Dirty tricks letter from IGO 8000
Story: A ‘full page’ letter has been published in the September, 2001 issue of High Mountain Sport complaining about the service offered by a none member of IGO 8000, Adventure Extreme. Whilst similar letters, complaining about fatal accidents to IGO 8000 clients or climbers on IGO 8000 Permits, those letters have never been published (will never be) published in the same magazine. The letter was sent to the magazine by Steve Bell (it is not known where he got the letter from) a founder member of – IGO 8000…
Mountain Clients – Web journal
Born on: 02/11/2002
Last updated: 02/26/2012 10:22:36
High Magazine – May, 1998: Charlie Fowler (AMGA certified mountain guide) and two clients survived: a terrible epic on Gurla Mandhata, a massive 7,694-meter peak in Western Tibet. He was guiding on a new route up the mountain’s technical north face when, five days into the climb, the trio was forced to descend from a point about 500 feet below the summit. They took a huge fall when one of the rope team slipped on 50-degree ice, and slid 1500 feet, eventually landing in a snowfield. The three, with the worst initial injury a twisted leg for Fowler, eventually made it back to base-camp. All suffered frostbite, the worst by Quinn Simons, who eventually lost his fingers, and his feet at the ankles. Who looks after the clients (s) when the guide gets it wrong??
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