Archive for the ‘Accidents’ Category

Question: ‘Why are you not UIAGM?’

Friday, October 1st, 2010

http://www.guidinglight.org.uk/tourronde.html Dennis and Norman Croucher climbed a fine North face in 1983… http://www.tvmountain.com/video/alpinisme/6958-tour-ronde-face-nord.html#.ToyS2smhNIE.facebook 

A circular sent out by the  BMC stated that: only UIAGM guides could called themselves – guides in their advertising: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=442328

“Why are you not UIAGM?”, that question was put to me many years ago and the reasons why I had not gone through UIAGM channels escaped me until bolt-loving Jon de Montjoy (UIAGM) made his recent comments on: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=424956 independent guides being arrested, being illegal – the usual rubbish. Independent guides, ‘friends’ working for UIAGM / IFMGA qualified guides in Europe are apparently - not illegal! The independent guide who lost three clients (1992) whilst he was working with a BMG/UIAGM guide – owner of the ironic  (Survival Club) in Switzerland was neither deported or – arrested! To this day (2011) the parents of the three deceased clients do not really know what happened. One father who asked for his sons (Paul Davis) equipment to be returned in 1992; the father who still does not know that his sons equipment is still rotting on the West Flank of the Eiger - nineteen years later.  The sons of Willie Dunnachie a deceased client of the Survival Club, both still devastated by their father premature death. But back to the question: I first looked at the organisation in the 1960′s and noticed that five UIAGM guides from ENSA, the Chamonix Mountain Centre had recently taken nine aspirant guides who were on an ENSA course (clients) into avalanche conditions on the the Aiguille Verte where all fourteen were killed; avalanched down the Cordier Couloir. At this time I also noticed that the independent mountain guide Mal Duff (who had few peers amongst climbers) was not UIAGM – he would never join. Walter Bonatti, Rene Desmaison and Lionel Terray to name just three professional guides had thrown their badges back at the UIAGM mountain organisation. Why? I came to realize why. The UIAGM was an alpine cartel and cartels I believe, are illegal in Europe? The UIAGM had in effect drawn a line across society, anyone who could not afford or justify 100 /150 pounds per day would have to go into the mountain – alone or with other just as inexperienced friends they ‘would not be allowed’ to employ climbers with vast experience and the correct attitude towards safety to assist them: ‘We are very concerned that clients are being offered an unsafe service by bogus mountain guides’, was published in 1988 by the BMG. ‘Why chance everything on anything else? We have a comprehensive Insurance scheme.’ And the fatal accidents to their clients continued. One widow waited – seven years (1990-1997) for the ‘comprehensive insurance’ scheme to pay-up (an appeal was even considered against her) bringing up her young son alone after her husbands; Gerry Hedley’s premature death. Langmuir, Mountaincraft and Leadership – Lord Hunt: “In my boyhood I spent six seasons in the European Alps, both in winter and summer, climbing many peaks with professional guides  –  yet learning very little and missing much of the fun and satisfaction of graduating as an all-round mountaineer.”

http://www.pistehors.com/news/ski/comments/year-of-hard-knocks There is no mention of the fate of the clients. It is not known what happened to the clients. And yet, 2011 advertising by the British Mountain Guides: ‘There is no-one more highly qualified to guide you, so why settle for  less?’ ??  http://mountainclients.typepad.com/mountain_clients/dennis-morrod.html  

Of the 14 Swiss soldiers being guided (UIAGM/IFMGA) on the Jungfrau in July, 2007, 5 were killed in an avalanche: ‘They should have started earlier in the day…’, was one expert observation. http://www.swissinfo.ch/eng/Army_criticised_over_fatal_avalanche_accident.html?cid=6002624  UIAGM/IFMGA? Er, thank you but – no thanks. 

http://www.heraldscotland.com/sport/spl/aberdeen/tragic-end-to-a-taste-for-adventure-grieving-parents-tell-of-loved-ones-1.312237 Mother learned of her sons; the clients death via Teltext…

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Another Mountain Client Left to Die…

Wednesday, June 2nd, 2010

http://www.explorersweb.com/everest_k2/news.php?id=17025 The Micheal Matthews Story

Daily Mail, Wed, June 2, 2010: ‘British mountaineer left to die on Everest.’ Another mountain clients was left to die on Mount Everest when Peter Kinloch was apparently, abandoned during his descent of the mountain. Not for the first time a client who had become blind through altitude was left to his fate. Just two weeks before, a thirteen year old successfully climbed and returned safely from the same summit. Several years ago, another mountain client, Mike Rheinbereger,  became ‘snow-blind’ above the ‘Second Step’ , near the summit of Everest. Unable to descend the vertical step, his guide, who had abseiled, descended ahead of his client, left him; was told by radio, to leave him behind. The guide should remain behind the client, roped to him, ready to give any assistance. Otherwise, they should not be up there… In 1995, my client fell into a ‘bottomless’ crevasse on the Kalhetner Glacier, Mount McKinley and his ‘pulk’; his fully laden sledge followed him in. I had to get him out alone, there was nobody else in-sight. I had to get him out – or go in with him -there was no thought of – cutting the rope; leaving him behind. By the time the Park Rangers arrives (called up on the radio – not easy with one hand holding the rope) one hour later, I had him safely out. If you can’t climb-right don’t climb, otherwise, someone is going to die…

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Italian mountain guide dies falling off church steeple

Monday, May 3rd, 2010

28 April, 2010: Marco Da Pozzo, UIAGM/IFMGA  guide was killed after falling from the church steeple in the chic ski resort of Cortina D’Ampezzo in the Dolomite’s during a routine maintenance operation – changing light-bulbs.

In April also, was the tragic 20 metre fall that killed UIAGM / IFMGA guide Thierry Lokteff on the 13th April, 2010, who whilst showing two clients crevasse rescue had the snow-bridge into which he was apparently, digging – collapse. The clients, survived. http://www.chamonix.net/english/news/2009-04-13.html

Finally, the President of the UIAGM/IFMGA, also died in 2010 when crossing a “wet glacier” un roped, he fell into a deep crevasse.

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Chance, Risk and Accidents in 2010

Sunday, June 29th, 2008

What a mess; what a can-of-worms, traditional climbers must be feeling pretty sick about the whole debacle of the pro-bolting scene now being sponsored by the British Mountaineering Council: http://www.safercliffs.org/code/photos.html

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news,7175241/British-woman-killed-in-Pyrenees-avalanche.html   along with her Spanish companion (February, 2010)  they were climbing in a party; group organised by the Spanish Mountain Sports Federation. Just three weeks later and a client along with a Jagged Globe winter mountaineering instructor, were killed in a Glencoe avalanche on the 25 February, 2010: http://outdoors.caladonianmercury.com/2010/03/01/avalanche-victims-were-with-mountain-guide-company/0034

Apparently, there is some controversy regarding the ‘reporting of climbing accidents’ and who should be ‘responsible’ for collating the material. Interestingly, the BMC who publish by far, the most pictures of young people climbing; being introduced to climbing whilst not wearing protective gear has become involved. The forum is accompanied by an interesting picture of a climber sitting at the bottom of, and close to, a crag. The ground around him is littered with various sized rocks that have fallen from above, his safety helmet, tucked away somewhere – safe. http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1099 brings a whole new meaning to – Chance, Risk and Accidents – still waiting to happen.

On January 8th, 2009, Argentine mountain guide Federico Campanini and one of his clients died on Aconcagua in a sudden storm. Whilst off route, the client apparently fell into a crevasse.

The BMC still advocating the use of the ‘overhand’ knot (British Death Knot) whilst abseiling: ‘The overhand knot is less prone to jamming when being retrieved, when in fact, it will jam in small cracks too small for the bulkier ‘double-fishermans’ to enter. Apparently, that there are cases of the ‘overhand’ knot unravelling when the ‘double-fishermans cannot, is of no consequence when it comes to – Chance, Risk and Accidents… http://www.thebmc.co.uk/Feature.aspx?id=1736

17 June, 2008: Patrick Monzat (58), Chamonix Independent guide and ex PHGM was killed in the Gouter Couloir when he and his two mountain clients were avalanched. Fortunately, the two clients survived.

20 June, 2008: two missing climbers have been found dead after falling in the Ecrins.

23 June, 2008: A British climber fell and was killed on the Pic Coolidge in the Ecrins.

Liam Costello fell and was killed whilst climbing on Snowden in October, 2007, and a High Court Judge has pronounced that the accident was ‘bad luck’.? http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/wales/north_west/7498803.stm Liam, just 11 years of age, would still be alive today if he had been ‘short-roped’ to one of the adults climbing / scrambling with him.

11 killed on K2: http://www.csmonitor.com/2008/0806/p06s01-wosc.html?page=1 after an avalanche, has apparently been confirmed in the early days of August, 2008. Eleven, climbers, mountain guides and their clients were swept away when a wall of ice collapsed. As many climbers no longer climb ‘roped together’ in high mountains, some were apparently trapped after the avalanche as ‘fixed ropes’ were destroyed; torn away. In 1964, 14 climbers; five mountain guides and nine aspirant (mountain clients)guides were killed; slab avalanched down the Cordier Couloir on the Aiguille Vert above Chamonix in the French Alps.

Climbing Leeches: Whilst yes, leeches are very good climbers, the kind being referred to in a BMC Summit article are the kind of climbers who seek litigation after an accident at indoor climbing walls. That the vast majority of indoor climbers are allowed to tie incorrectly into their climbing harnesses in reality shows not only a scant disregard for safety at indoor walls but also climbing wall owners are leaving themselves wide open to – litigation.

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Five Die on Grand Paradiso (15 May 2008)

Monday, June 2nd, 2008

April 30th, 2008: Five French mountain clients, Bruno Paladini, Colomb Christian, Sophie Chourtier, Christophe Gandon and Brisset Francois were killed in an all consuming avalanche on the Grand Paradiso in Italy. All consuming, well their UIAGM guide survived.
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Six Swiss Soldiers Killed In Avalanched (15 May 2008)

Monday, June 2nd, 2008

In July, 2007, 14 Swiss soldiers were taken on an ascent of the Jungfrau by their UIAGM guides. In the ensuing avalanche, six of the soldiers were killed. Their guides face a criminal enquiry.
 
This avoidable UIAGM/IFMGA tragedy mirrors, to a degree, a fatal accident on the Aiguille Vert in July, 1964, when nine aspirant guides were taken into slab avalanche conditions by five UIAGM guides; instructors from ENSA, Chamonix. The nine clients and five qualified guides died when they were all avalanched down the Cordier Couloir.
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Fatal Accident to British Soldier (2 Aug 2005)

Monday, June 2nd, 2008

Using conflicting reports, apparently a British soldier, on an adventure course, was killed when a serac (wall of ice) partially collapsed on the Mont Blanc du Tacul. Five other soldiers escaped serious injury. Military, alpine adventure courses have for some years now been led by a UIAGM / IFMGA guide. Interestingly, in this particular fatal incident, a guide has not been mentioned. This particular route on the Mont Blanc du Tacul has claimed many lives over the years through avalanches usually, because climbers, for some reason, are still on the face in the heat of the afternoon.
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Switzerland Canyoning Disaster (29 Dec 2004)

Monday, June 2nd, 2008

Adventure sports in the Alps were brash and cocky until July 27, 1999. On that tragic day, a group of young tourists, led by gung-ho mountain guides,who ignored warning of an impending storm (nothing new there then). They were caught in an avalanche of stones and logs brought down by a flash flood and 21 young people died… The memorial to the 21 dead, is at Saxetbach just three miles up the Saxetbach valley from Interlaken. Twenty one towers of stone ornament a peaceful garden. There is also a 30-foot wide notice board filed with love letters from family, peoms from partners, and sad notes from friends…
http://www.ricksteves.com/plan/destinations/switz/disaster.htm
In August, 1979, six Swiss soldiers were killed when 22 soldiers were taken into avalanche conditions by their Swiss UIAGM/IFMGA guide. In July, 1980, he was acquitted of negligence (of course) by a Zurich Tribunal.
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Experience is “Key” – Tragedy in the Sierra Nevada (11 Oct 2004)

Monday, June 2nd, 2008

A warning that these hills are not benign as it sometimes seems, especially in the spring, came on 5th/6th May when there were 3 deaths, 1 comatose victim and 6 injured in varying states of hypothermia. All in one incident!

The party were all from Holland and contained 10 women and 1 man, all led by a female dutch guide. They had booked a trekking holiday with a dutch company called “Intertrek”, who had run tours to the Sierras for a few years. They set off from Trevelez, the highest village in Spain (1600 metres) at 10 am bound for the Poqueira Hut at 2500 metres via the Alta de Chorillo, a point on the south ridge of Mulhacen. They had been warned by the hotel owner in Trevelez that conditions were very poor with high winds, snow higher up and poor visibility. Moreover, the guardian of the Poqueira Hut, Raphael Quintero, a man who we have met on many occasions during this winters courses, also advised them to consider another easier, less exposed route, avoiding having to try to reach the hut. For some unknown and yet to be determined reason, the guide and the party set off.

After 2 hours ascent 2 of the women decided that the going was too hard and heeded the words of advice from the locals. They turned back and descended to Trevelez. They were smart! The rest continued upwards and arrived at the high ridge of Alta de Chorillo between 16.30 and 17.00. At this point they were met by the full fury of the south westerly gale. Winds of up to 130km per hour with driving snow pounded at them. The temperatures were well below freezing even without the windchill effect. The group met a party of well equipped Basque mountaineers at this point who had wisely given up their attempt on Mulhacen and decided to seek refuge in the Poqueira Hut.

By 19.00 the hut guardian, who was expecting the dutch party, became increasingly concerned. By 20.00 he called for assistance from the Guardia Civil Rescue Service. With over half a metre of new snow and the storm still raging the Basque party of 6 persons went out to search for the dutch. By 3 in the morning 2 of the dutch were found just below in Alta de Chorillo with advanced stages of hypothermia. They were both dead. The others were eventually found one by one. One was rescued only 50 metres from the hut, which she could not find! Others were strung out up to half a kilometre away. By 7 in the morning another body had been found near the door of the hut and the rest were all accounted for. They were given food and warmth and evacuated when the rescue helicopters could finally land at 1 in the afternoon of Thursday 6th May.

The dead and injured were taken to Capileira and hence to the emergency trauma unit in Granada.

Unbelievable, I know. None were equipped with winter clothing (one had only shorts and a lightweight fleece). Some had eye injuries as a result of neither having goggles nor sunglasses.

The repercussions are starting now. All the Andalucian papers are full of the inquest and the events of those terrible 2 days. The inquest will be held in Orgiva and the bodies cannot be returned to Holland until the inquest has been held. So far the guide concerned has not been questioned publicly. Whatever could she say? There’s really no excuse is there? A wrongly equipped party led by an inexperienced guide who had not been to the mountain area before………..an accident waiting to happen?

By Richard Hartley of Spanish Highs Mountain Guides, Sierra Nevada, Spain.

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Mont Blanc: 14 July, 2003 – 6 dead.

Monday, June 2nd, 2008

According to several news media, a group of 11 climbers and their UIAGM guide were caught in a massive ice avalanche at the Junction of the Grand Mulet and the Upper Bossons Glaciers. Six of the group; six clients died. The Junction, along with the massive serac wall half way up the Grand Mulet on the left, are known danger areas especially during the midday, afternoon heat.
Many climbers have been overwhelmed in these two areas. In one such accident fifteen years ago, 14 climbers were killed in a single avalanche of ice. Spreading large parties out (going through these areas quickly in 2′s) whilst passing through these areas will reduce the threat. This has been a known danger areas; a black-spot for decades.
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