Archive for the ‘BMC’ Category

Cronyism

Monday, June 2nd, 2008

The BMG/BMC stand accused of duplicity, er, Cronyism. http://mounteverest.net/news.php?id=10265

On the 12 September,2005, two climbers, members of the so-called British Mountaineering Council (BMC), were apparently assaulted and their ropes cut (nothing new there then) and thrown off Vixen Tor for the illegal act of – trespassing (again). Complaining to the BMC, they were informed that the BMC would: support them all it could – in the illegal act of trespassing. There is apparently, to be a legal gathering at the car park opposite Vixen Tor on Saturday the 24 September, 2005 in protest of the land owner wanting her land to remain private and free of members of the BMC. She has a right to be concerned on two counts: 1) In the main members of the BMC disdain the wearing of proper safety equipment – helmets and they are supported in this by the – BMC. Any amount of material emanating from the BMC will show young climbers (supposedly protected by the – Young Persons Safety Act of Parliament) not wearing safety helmets. The land owner is rightly concerned about any accidents on her land – it is inevitable.
2) The BMC and its members are responsible for the proliferation of ‘Bolting Fund’s’ that have appeared in all regions of the UK from Lands End to the Highlands of Scotland in the last twenty years, members of the BMC have / are deliberately damaging natural cliffs, crags and mountain rockfaces (against the wishes of the vast majority of British climbers) with drilled expansion bolts, Devon’s crags and Tors, will not hold out much longer against this BMC sponsored damage (Chudleigh on the Southern edge of Dartmoor already already has some bolts). It is typical of the BMC and its members to pick on a ‘lone woman’ (the land owner). Just about their limit…
The BMC has set up (in September, 2005) and is offering training courses in, ‘Being An Expert Witness’. Concerned that more of its members will be found guilty of neglect, during litigation, whilst climbing with, or without clients, what better way of protecting cronies than to control, nationwide, trained by their own ‘qualified’ staff, – Expert Witnesses. No doubt Saturdays demonstration will be monitored by BMC, Expert Witnesses. Whilst members of the BMC might benefit from such a scam, sorry brilliant idea, mountain clients certainly will not.   
On the 12th of February, 2004, Mr Lyndon Gill wrote in Rockfax (bloody Scouts Need Rescuing thread): ‘As you point out, the British Mountain Guides Safety Guarantees previous to 1997 was highly erroneous. More so, the fact that the British Mountaineering Council published such advertising. Misleading and dishonest in the highest degree. Cronyism at its worse.’
In 1984, Dennis Gray the then general secretary of the British mountaineering Council received a complaint from a supposed autonomous climbing organisation – the Association of British Mountain Guides (BMG). In response to that complaint, he wrote to me (and two other private organisations one of which, was forced out of business) stating that: ‘Only members of the BMG could called themselves ‘guides’ in the UK and on the continent…’ He/they wanted us, to remove the word – guide from our advertising.
It has become noticeable in more recent years, that numerous adverts from people who are not members of the BMG, are being allowed, with no BMC objection; are using the word – guide.
A very recent example of that double standard (19/02/02), is in the Cubby Column (BMG): ‘Hamish McInnes is not a qualified Mountain Guide (not qualified to who’s standard?) as far as a piece of paper or a certificate is concerned but if ever there was a – professional guide in Scottish mountaineering, it must be Hamish (Mal Duff , professional guide, also had no paperwork or BMG certificate as mentioned elsewhere). Hamish’s guiding school is not so much in evidence these days…’ Only members of the BMG can be called; can call themselves – guides.? And yet: “I am unusual being (yes I can call myself) a High Altitude Guide (I work for Jagged Globe IGO 8000 on Mount Everest – 2005/6) who has not come through the Alpine Guide School (not BMG/IFMGA).” David Hamilton. Good luck to him.
‘Confusion (for the parents) still surrounds the events which led up to a fatal, multiple accident on the West Face of the Eiger in the Swiss Alps in July, 1992.’ Philip Davies was killed along with two other clients of – The Survival Club; clients of the Association of British Mountain Guides (BMG). Whilst there were temporary repercussions for the lead guide, John Barry BMG (who lost his certificate for a while but still continued to guide, further his career and who is now a full member of the BMG again) there has been not a single comment in print (no publicity) from either the British Mountaineering Council or the Association of British Mountain Guides about the leader of the fatal rope that killed three BMG clients – Jan Rowe Not a member of the BMG who was guiding for gain). Supposedly, unqualified to work for gain in Europe as a mountain guides, Mr Rowe and, David Halton were being employed as – mountain guides in Switzerland by Mr Barry. Graham Davies, Phil’s father and the other parents, have never been given an explanation for the anomaly that cost their children their lives.
And yet, an article in the December 2000, issue of High Mountain Sport, the official magazine of the  – BMC, by Joe Simpson states: ‘Sadly misrepresentation of the facts has a distressing effect on the poor relatives of the victims who read conflicting reports on the death of their loved ones. Consequently, I was telephoned by a ‘representative of the BMC’ and asked whether I could call Matthew Hayne’s relatives (Mr Haynes one of three climbers who fell off the North face of the Eiger on the same day in September, 2000 during a storm). I was willing, but saddened to do so and also very angry that people already suffering great grief should be put in this position.’ (The general secretary of the BMC, is also a member of the BMG).
Philip’s Davies parents in the ten years since their sons avoidable death, have never received such a ‘thoughtful’ telephone call; such a thoughtful visit. Neither the BMC and certainly not, the BMG, have expressed; shown a ‘similar concern’ to the relatives of – Philip, – a  BMG client. In fact no relative of a dead BMG client has ever received such courtesy; received such a concerned telephone call.
Many other relatives of BMG clients have likewise never received such consideration. To the contrary, when a BMG client, Mr Pope, who was seriously injured, tried to sue his guide; his failure to do so, brought comments of delight from the British – climbing establishment…  heralded in High Mountain Sport – the ‘official’ magazine of the BMC as a: ‘Triumph for Common Sense.’??
BMC News Archive, 25 July 1997, is like wise unsympathetic to BMG clients.
‘On June 20 a High Court Judge found against (BMG) guide Dave ‘Smiler’ Cithbertson, in a negligence case brought against him by six year old Daniel Woodroofe Headly (Hedley). The case concerned a fatal accident on the North face of the Tour Ronde in July 1990. Cuthbertson was leading his client, Gerry Healey (Hedley) when he (Cuthbertson) fell. The single ice screw belay failed and Headley (Hedley) was killed. (The guide of course and as usual – survived.)’
‘Since this judgement the BMC has been working to counter the ill conceived suggestion that ‘any standard’ procedure exists for climbing alpine routes of this type and to stress that any one of a range of belaying methods may have been appropriate on (in) the circumstances.’ (Like, placing two; three ice screws and two ice-axes.’. ‘If a precedent is set basing the concept of negligence on a failure to follow procedure then this will seriously affect the way in which people, both amateur and professionals climb. ‘We know’ (really) there is no set procedure for climbing (?) particularly alpinism, and that the variety of circumstances encountered puts the onus entirely on the judgement of the individual (the client cannot make such judgements). Judgement and experience, not the rule book, are used to make the choices that minimise  the risk (like two/three ice screws at least) that climbers (clients) are exposed to. In any mountaineering accident it is normally possible to trace back to a point and say if only those involved had done this or that the accident might have been avoidable: but it is wrong to think that because an accident has occurred someone has to be at fault or even that the decisions made were necessarily bad ones. The BMC is currently pulling together opinion as to the implications of the case and a full review will appear in Summit 7.’
Mr Hedley’s widow and the young son that Hedley never saw, waited seven years for compensation for their loss under the as advertised: BMG comprehensive insurance scheme. Even then, an appeal was considered; Cuthberton was urged to consider an appeal; there were those who were prepared to support financially, an appeal against the widow and her son. Mrs Hedley´s book, will hopefully, be soon published so that the true facts surrounding this accident can finally be revealed.
It goes without saying, that the British Mountaineering Council (BMC) is involved very closely with the Association of British Mountain Guides (BMG). The BMG is supposedly autonomous from the (they actually shared an office in Manchester) BMC. They are not. The two organisations are intertwined. The general secretary of the BMC in 1997, was a member of the BMG. The BMC, has for many years stated that, members of the BMG meet ‘strict BMC safety criteria’ when it comes to offering climbing and mountaineering courses to members of the public. In 1985, the then general secretary of the BMC offered; threatened to give ‘full publicity’ to any problems that independent instructors/guides may have in the future (that is, unless they were working for – BMG guides). That ‘offer’ has not been; has never been extended to members of the – BMG (or those independent guides working for them) by the BMC. Why not? At the time of the avoidable fatal accident to Gerry Hedley in 1990, the BMG were advertising in BMC material and elsewhere: ‘Safe Guarantees.’ The BMC has said nothing about recent Everest debacles involving British guides – qualified or otherwise. (1999/2007)
As one observer wrote: Roger Payne, the last General Secretary of the BMC (2002) left – to join the UIAA (invited by Ian McNaught Davis no doubt) slush fund along with no doubt, Swiss citizenship and a Swiss bank account thrown in. The weather must be nice in Leysin, Switzerland, at this time of year.
Leysin, is mentioned extensively in the latest book about Dougal Haston: The Philosophy of Risk, by Jeff Connor: ‘Harlin’s idea of a climbing school offering small, mobile courses able to take advantage of favourable conditions anywhere was sound, and at one hundred dollars for a week considerably cheaper than the established alpine schools – or employing the services of  (qualified local ) guides (who turned a blind eye anyway). All of original staff (including Don Whillians) were seasoned climbers, but none was a qualified instructor, and it was only when Pete Boardman (BMC) became director in succession to Dougal in 1978 that ISM employees were encouraged to get professional qualifications…’, UIAGM guiding qualifications which they acquired: just – like – that cronyism, at its worse??
Harlin’s vision was one of a climbing school that would have the best climbers in the world, and the - highest ideals.? Rene Demaison and Walter Bonatti, though mentioned in the glossy brochure, apparently, had other matters to attend to. Bonatti and Demaison, never showed. The Leysin drug scene (read the book – riveting read) probably put many serious climbers off…
 
It is not yet known if the LSD drug bust (Operation Julie busted Henry Todd and found evidence of a Red Brigade connection) in 1978 found a drug outlet; connection at ISM, Leysin. Certainly, the American Outside magazine puts Henry Barclay Todd in Leysin; connects Todd with ISM prior to his eventual arrest (a copy of ‘Operation Julie’ is available through your local library)’. What the book does not mention, show, is that the 750,000 pounds sterling recouped by the operation police team was handed back to the convicted, due to a loophole in British law at the time.
http://www.publications.parliament.uk/pa/cm200102/cmbills/031/en/02031x–.htm
Interestingly, as predicted on this website, Roger Payne, ex-President of the British Mountaineering Council, has been invited; taken into the UIAA fold by Ian MacNaught-Davis and now resides in Switzerland, in fact in – Leysin… Job’s for the boy’s or – what? Cronyism still working well within the climbing establishment. See the Web Journal re: New President for the UIAA… On the 12 Feb, 2004, Mr Lyndon Gill wrote in Rockfax (Bloody Scouts Need Rescuing): ‘As you point out the British Mountain Guides ‘safety  guarantee’ previous to 1997 was highly erroneous. More so the fact that the BMC published such advertisements. Misleading and dishonest in the highest degree. Cronyism at its worse.’
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Bogus Mountain Guides?

Monday, June 2nd, 2008

Climber & Rambler Magazine: 1988. “Bogus Mountain Guides” (BMG)

“The Association of British Mountain Guides has asked me to write to warn your readers about people posing as – mountain guides.” So wrote Mr S. Mitchell for the Association of British Mountain Guides (ABMG). (ABMG, has changed to the BMG.) According to BMG Internet advertising 2000: “This badge (their logo)recognised throughout the mountain world is your ‘guarantee’ of their professional training and competence in all aspects of mountaineering and – client care.”

The BMG letter by Mr Mitchell continues: “We are therefore very concerned that any member of the public is subjected to an inferior and probably dangerous service by someone who may call himself a – mountain guide. To operate with an unqualified guide…may easily result in the loss of hard-earned holiday money.”

To operate with a qualified guide is apparently, a gurantee of your safety and that of  your hard earned savings. But if you are not BMG ‘qualified’ your must be dangerous. Really? http://www.jagged-globe.co.uk/news/hamiltonint1.html

http://www.ecossenet.com Local BMG guides and Instructors: ‘So if you’ve had your eye on that special route for some time but don’t – want to die on it, give one of them a call. (Wed 13 March, 2002)’

Not a single mountain client of an independent guide ( bogus mountain guide) not working for a member of the BMG, has actually – lost a clients hard-earned holiday money; and certainly not a single clients life. To the contrary, too many BMG mountain clients since 1988, have ‘lost’ not only hard earned holiday money, but also their hard-earnt – life!. The true number of mountain clients who have in fact lost hard earned holiday money along with, their life, may never be known due to a wall-of-silence; a closing of BMG/BMC/IFMGA ranks.

A Bogus Mountain Guide, is anyone who is not a member; who does not support the BMG/BMC in its thinking; attitude to client safety.

It is not known, how many relatives of deceased BMG mountain clients have in fact received repayment of their loved one’s course fees; hard-earned holiday money.

BMG: ‘Adventure with Security & Safe Guarantees.? Why chance everything – on anything less?’??

After a court-case in 1997, (Cuthbertson v Hedley), the Advertising Standards Authority removed certain BMG advertising from High magazine. In 1988, BMG advertising boasted: “Adventure with Security, …we have a comprehensive insurance scheme…” Even though BMG clients were dying in avoidable climbing accidents, BMG advertising continued; changed to: “Safe guarantees, why chance everything on anything less?” Today on the Internet, as already mentioned, guarantees of safety are still being advertised by the BMG – but are not being honoured.

Historical Note: In 1964, five ‘qualified’ Chamonix Guides took nine aspirant guides (clients) into slab avalanche conditions high on the Aiguille Vert. In the ensuing avalanche, fourteen climbers died…  Andre Roch: ‘Whoever exposes himself to the dangers of an avalanche without it being absolutely necessary is without doubt very stupid.’ T. Rupar, holder of the Canadian Avalanche Association’s highest award: ‘…its not too difficult to understand why the less experienced become avalanche statistics, but one can only conclude that the ‘experienced’ victims are either badly myopic, stupid, suicidally gung-ho, English, or a dangerous mix of some or all of these.’

Another ‘Dirty Tricks’ letter, this time,  printed in High Mountain Sport – September 2001

In the September, 2001 issue of High Mountain Sport the official magazine of the British Mountaineering Council, a letter has been printed from a client of – Adventure Extreme a non member of – IGO 8000; from a complaining client about a (successful) expedition on Mount Everest. Whilst similar letters exist, complaining about member organisations of IGO 8000, none of those letters have ever been (will never be) published in the same magazine. Even though, those letters refer to – fatal accidents within the IGO 8000 consortium. IGO 8000: ‘At the cutting edge of Himalayan safety… ‘?? In fact, an email regarding compaints about a Jagged Globe expedition appeared on the Rocktalk web-forum at 21:46h on Tuesday the 5 March, 2002. It was removed, zapped the following day. There was no such recourse for Adventure Extreme (a non member of IGO 8000). In a reply to that zapped email Steve Bell (18:37 Sun 10 March) states: ‘However, in view of the potential seriousness of your allegation (complaint), I suggest you keep further communications about this – confidential while we investigate the matter.’ Adventure Exteme, did not receive such a courtious breathing space..

And even more ‘dirty tricks’… James Bedway posted on Rockfax’s Rocktalk at 10.20 on Friday the 26 October, 2001: ‘ OTT Now Alpine 8000 (IGO 8000). Our group from the USA sent in our deposits and insurance money 9 months in advance and that was the last we heard from them. Now we are scrambling to book a US company on our dates then fight to get our money back from – OTT (Alpine Mountaineering based in Sheffield). They knew they were closing and took our money and said to hell with us. There are 10 guides listed with OTT – and we will never deal with any company that has those guides listed. We do not trust the…’

OTT, Alpine Mountaineering, according to someone who responded to Mr Bedway’s comments has apparently gone – bust.

In 2000, a Press Release assured potential IGO 8000 clients thus: ‘Although there are many commercial operators in the world, few in fact fit into the stringent – acceptable levels for membership to IGO 8000.’? OTT, was a founder member of – IGO 8000 and US clients have been left out in the cold; clients who have lost their hard-earned holiday money…

During their 1998 Conference held on the 19-21 November, the UIAGM/IFMGA members were informed about the forming of a sub-commission in 1997 the: Alpine Accidents Sub-Commission.

‘A sub-commission was formed to create a panel of – experts to review accidents (there are apparently going to be more). Erich Gutsgell reported on the complex chain of events which result from an accident (clients die). In trying to better unstand this chain the sub-commission hopes to identify the best way in which the UIAGM/IFMGA can serve the interests of – member associations and guides ( their is no mention in the sub-commision report about serving the interests -of clients). Erich would like all menber associations to identify an – expert, to serve as a reviewer to accidents involving – guides (once again there is no mention of – their clients).’?

http://www.jagged-globe.co.uk/news/hamiltonint1.html but its O.K. if you are working for the BMG/IFMGA – IGO 8000. “I am really quite unusual…having not come through the Alpine Guiding School”, he said (2007).

2004/6 see’s the BMG fighting tooth & nail against new: “Work at Height – EC Directive, Regulations.’ Interestingly, the BMG grabbed with both hands PLas-y-Brenin when it was ‘given away’ for nil consideration under another – EC Directive… Independent climbing instructors / guides have until October, 2006 in which to respond to an HSE Consultation Paper regarding Amendments being pushed for by the BMG / AMI / BMC.

http://consultations.hse.gov.uk/inovem/consutl.ti/wah.adventure/answersQuestionnaire?qid…

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British Mountaineering Council

Monday, June 2nd, 2008

‘What did the Romans ever do for us?’ When in fact we have a lot to thank – the Romans for… http://mounteverest.net/news.php?id=10265
The Cover Photograph of the Book: The First Fifty Years (of the so-called British Mountaineering Council) says it all – publicising as it does, a lack of basic safety equipment (no safety helmet) and a quiet country lane choked with – cars. Welcome to the outcome – of the first fifty years… Fifty years ago looking out from the same spot, not a single motor vehicle was to be seen.
1997: ‘Looking ahead to the future it is appropriate to note that we are once again embroiled in various conflicts such as: how are we to check the spread of Bolts in Britain?’, (The First Fifty Years – Editorial Introduction xi). Ten years later, the BMC flooded the UK climbing scene with – 10,000 bolts – another conflict. http://groups.msn.com/SafetyInformationforMountainClients/retrobolts.msnw
“Perhaps the brave new scene (don’t mention – yes there are a few skeletons in the cupboard – ‘Brazilgate’ or the full machinations of the Mountain Leadership tussle for control of a multi-million pound market – tried to bully Rockfax) prefers the superficialities  of the British (elite) Mountaineering Council (BMC) plc, the perfect reflection of modish privatisation with its credo of the quick-fix and personal gain, no such thing as society etc., etc. The antithesis of service and care for the community , in this case the so-called climbing community. Now the BMC’s taste for the life-blood of commercialism is aroused, it could (has) come amongst us (deliberately putting the competition out of business) vampire-like seeking pristine areas in which to sink its fangs and soon, very soon, the whole climbing world will be walking around (though not too far to the nearest crag) in a bloodless trance mouthing fatuous platitiudes…” http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=215043 The BMC, now a charity!?
On the other hand: What did the British (elite) Mountaineering Council (BMC) ever do for us? Don’t mention ‘Brazilgate’ whatever you do… Er, chose to support, waste money on, indoor climbing competitions against the wishes of the vast majority of British climbers. The BMC ‘took no note’ of the concerns expressed in the mid 1990′s and went ahead with its determination to follow ‘its quest’ – whatever that might be; a quest to create a multi million pound market. Enevitably, creating a million pound market for its commercial members with a vested interest in, financial gain, that included enticing as many young people as possible, in fact anyone – to climb (learn to climb) invariably – indoors via artificial climbing walls (the BMC statement – ‘climbers will never pay to climb’ – seems quite hollow now). And what do we see today?: ‘In 2005, the Youth Advisory Panel of the BMC made a controvercial decision – to stop British Youth Team members from competing in the BRYCS (British Regional Youth Climbing Series) bouldering competitions (they were damaging themselves).’**
The BMC or Manchester Mafia, introduce Politics into mountaineering? Yes, in the last week of September, 2006, at the Labour Party Conference being held in Manchester, there will be / was a meeting of the, wait for it: The All Party Parliamentary Mountaineering Group the – APPMG. Drinks were laid on for MP’s, Peers, Chief Exectutives of certain agencies and – leading (elite) climbers… Many people would regard party politics as having no place whatsoever in mountaineering but not – the BMC and those of course those with vested interests haddifferent ideas.
Tried; threatened to sue Rockfax. The BMC who took no note of the Scottish guidebook writers who were very concerned about BMC expansion in guidebook production. Typically, Roger Payne (the the General Secretary of the BMC) was involved. Whilst arranging to feather his own nest in Switzerland, he tried to spoil it for Roackfax. Ken Wilson (about Rockfax – not the BMC): ‘…they will then move around sinking their fangs into…’
**Bouldering Competitions are too risky (storing up future physical problems) for juniors with an untold number already injured prematurely no doubt. Another BMC debacle… A letter from G. Rimmer was printed in a specialst magazine when the BMC first tempted to grasped with both hands – indoor climbing competitions: ‘Come on Dennis (Dennis Gray the then General Secretary of the BMC) forget about Access and all that rubbish – climbing competitions – that’s where its at, I can make you loads-a-money…’
Allowed into the UK climbing the – bolting of; unquarried cliffs and crags, mountain crags. In 2007,the BMC flooded Btirish climbing with – 10,000 bolts. Members of the BMC once again bolting at the SSSI that is Malham Cove. Apparently, 30 peices of silver must have changed hands behind the scenes because this time around, the BMC has apparently, the backing of non-climbers in the guise of the Malham Parish Council. Bolting now takes place, sanctioned by the BMC, from Lands End to Portland to Cheddar Gorge, Malham Cove and onto the Highlands of Scotland. Another ‘bolt debate’ took place at St Just, Lands End, on the 7th may, 2005. The new Land Management Committee working hard for…? The BMC had the audacity to ask members to keep an eye out, and to report details of, off-road motorcyclists damaging the environment – whilst members of the BMC were deliberately and with the BMC’s blessing (through BMC sponsored Bolt Funds) damage unquarried rock by drilling and placing expansion bolts… Typical BMC double standards.
Lost, wasted a lot of membership (and Taxpayers) money in recent years – 2000 – 2006. A 2006 definition of a – loan: ‘A gift of money usually for political purposes, which does not have to be re-paid; given back.’ Example: ‘Thank you for your very generous loan. Your contract to construct all future, artificial climbing walls is in the post. Your contract to run the BMC’s ‘expert witness’ courses is in the post.’, etc., etc., etc.
Introduced the BMC’s ‘Expert Witnesses’: Mountain clients should be aware of the BMC’s new strategy to ensure that not a single BMC / BMG guide looses another court-ase where a client has been killed or seriously injured. The ploy, is for a list of – BMC mountaineering ‘expert witnesses’ to be drawn up (first list appeared in December, 2005) but do not expect this ‘list of BMC / BMG guides’ to act on behalf of BMG clients in any future court-cases. Act against them – and on behalf of, the insurance companies – yes. To give some idea of the expertise available, one of the BMG guides listed (most of the expert witnesses listed are BMG guides) left me (an unwitting Plas-y-Brenin clients) to hobble alone, into the growing darkness with a damaged knee, down into the night to Sligachan at the foot of the Cuillin Ridge in 1979. Another of the expert witnesses is pictured in a specialist magazine; Alpine Safety article, dry glacier crossing with arms and hands totally exposed to glacier-rash in the event of a slip / fall he is also not wearing a safety helmet. Fall into a crevasse, and the ice debre that can follow you in can cause much more than a headache.
‘The British Mountaineering Council will have succeeded and only then, when every climber / mountaineer is a member…’ A. Dummat. Not much chance of success there then as that statement was made sixty years ago. And the BMC’s membership still remains at 1% of all climbers, mountaineers and hill walkers – I wonder why? The Rambler’s Association has a greater membership than the BMC – fifty years on (90,000). Appparently, 50 years on, there are just 70,000 BMC members in an outdoors that caters for – 4m participants. How come, 3,999,930 activists manage without the – BMC?
Finally, and for the first time in – 50 years, the BMC is holding an Online Survey (summer 2007): Head Injuries and Helmets… Apparently, they have reolised that there is a connection (most BMC members distain the wearing of safety helmets). http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=260399
This page in fact contains some details regarding just what the BMC has done, in a negative way, for climbers, mountaineers and hillwalkers in its first – 50 years. http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=215043
And yet, of a Parlimentary, Early Day Motion dated the 23rd October, 2007, the RT Angels C. Smith stated: ‘ That this House notes the importance of mountaineering to the UK in terms of its status as an Elite sport , further notes that mountaineering, rock climbing and other mountain related activities – the House recognises the criticle role played in the development of mountain sports culture by organisations such as the – British Mountaineering Council…’
The Right Honourable Ms Smith, was commenting on the desirability of the BMC moving to Sheffield where she has a constituancy – the Manchester Mafia, apparently moving to join forces with the – Sheffield Mafia (the BMC were originally refered to as the Manchester Mafia in a Specialist Magazine some years ago).
Some years ago, Nigel Shepeard an instructor at Plas-y-Brenin stated; wrote: ‘Does mountaineering really the BMC…? In 2000, another climber sent a similar letter of complaint to High magazine (now defunct) The then General Secretary of the BMC – Roger Payne replied thus: ‘Steve Harison’s proposal that BMC should dispose of the services it runs for climbers (members), hillwalkers and mountaineering must be based on a serious misunderstanding. There is no reason why a representative ‘voluntary body’ (have you seen the gigantic BMC wage bill?) should not have a commercial dimension.
To Be continued…
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A Strange Attitude to Common Sense

Monday, June 2nd, 2008

The British Mountaineering Council (BMG) has never supported a BMG client, before, during, or after a court case…

From 1988 to 1997 the Association of British Mountain Guides advertised in specialist magazines that: ‘Their training and International Qualification is your – Safe Guarantee. Why risk everything on anything less.’ We have a comprehensive insurance scheme.’ The scheme; the scam is, our insurers do not pay-out for – seven years after fatal accidents to clients.

 
This was certainly true of the way in which Lynda Woodroffe has been treated. Not only was she not supported by the BMC/BMG her attempts at claiming compensation were hindered. Her husband Gerry Hedley an international art expert  was killed in 1990 when his BMG guide fell. Hedley’s attempts at aresting the fall which took place high on the North face of the Tour Ronde in the French Alps, failed when the single ice screw to which he was attached; that he tried to protect, pulled out and both climbers fell down the face. Providentially for the guide, their climbing rope caught on a projecting rock arresting both falls. Whilst the guide was seriously injured, Mr Hedley fell onto rocks and was killed. Seven years later, Ms Woodroffe was compensated for the lose of her husband.
Eleven years later, on Wednesday the 9th January, 2008, johncoxmysteriously wrote: ‘…although the lady came over as something of a vengeful harpy as I recall’. http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=279121&v=1 ‘A vengeful harpy’, Mr Cox’s (he is a solicitor) ill chosen words are dated: 01:26 Wed in the above quoted rockfax forums thread.This kind of comment will only serve to confirm Ms Woodroffe’s suspicions regarding the attitude towards her – 11 years on. One might ask where such a bizzare statement came from in such a thread?
Her attempts at compensation from the as advertised: ‘BMGuides have a comprehensive insurance system’, were hindered from the start: ‘We were insured by the – BMC as was the guide.’ She knew that something had happened to cause the fall and wanted a copy of the French Police report She, her friends and her solicitor wrote and telephoned the police in Chamonix but the important report did not arrive until 3 years and 3… weeks after the incident. Certainly, putting her ‘out of time’.
Ms Woodroffe had three years in which to make a case against the guides insurance company acording to the insurance and legal rules. Her young son was born eight months after her husband was killed. Some political friends suggested to her that she press on with the case and she was advised to get her Member for Parlaiment to get the French police accident report. The MP called the UK Foreign Office and they, after three attempts, finally received the report – 3 years and 3… weeks after the fatal accident. I can certainly see her point (after waiting 7 years) about how the climbing fraternity ‘closed in’ and her suspicions of a ‘conspiracy’ against her and her son. Unlike the guide in question Mr ‘Smiler’ Cuthbertson, Ms Woodroffe received no support from the BMG and certainly, not from the BMC. This merely serves to confirm the attitude within climbing circles towards her. Callous and shabby – or what?
To the contrary, Sir Chris Bonington, Patron of the British Mountaineering Council, was invited, and accepted, to sit on the Professional Standards Committee of the British Mountain Guides meeting in 1997. The Committee found the BMG guide David ‘Smiler’ Cuthberton – not at fault, even though a High Court judgement found Cuthbertson negligent after his client Mr Hedley, was killed in an avoidable climbing accident – seven years previously (Ms Woodroffe and her young son were made to wait, bringing up her son alone for seven years before finally being compensated for their lose). Er, no, she was not invited to the BMG’s Professional Standards Committee’s 1997 meeting. Neither were Mr Davis or Mr & Mrs…or Mr…
 
Roger Payne, the then General Secretary of the British Mountaineeering Council on the 1st of December, 1995: “We know that certification is wholly inpracticle and would not succeed in reducing accidents…” And yet, certification was the very reason that the Vitriolic Wars were fought in the 1970′s for control of / the issuing of, certification in climbing and mountaineering so that members of the British Mountaineering Council could con-trol a multi million pound market. A con-tradiction in terms – or what? ‘It [The BMC] exists o further the interests of mountaineering as a whole (not just commercial guides and instructors) , and it will succeed in this only in so far as it receives the full support ‘of each and every’ mountaineer…It should be needless to add that there will be not attempt to introduce anything ‘so foolish’ as a qualification scheme for ‘mountian Leaders’.’ Which have ironically, proved to be the most lucrative outcome of those – vitriolic wars…  
 
From where does this callous attitude in climbing / mountaineering stem?
For anyone interested in to how the sport of climbing / mountaineering became somewhat – callous and shabby they could do no better than to read Walter Bonatti’s latest book: The Mountains of My Life. (Random House Inc.) Series Editor, Jon Krakauer. Copyright 1998 by Baldini & Castoldi International. First English Edition 2001. For fifty years the finest alpinist who ever lived, had been treated in a callous and shabby manner.
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Mal Duff Refused to Join the British Mountain guides (11 Feb 2002)

Sunday, June 1st, 2008

According to The Daily Telegraph on April 29, 1997, sadly, Mal Duff died at Everest base Camp (the reason why, will always remain a mystery). At the height of his powers, Mal is supposed to have died in his sleep. The Obitury, continues: ‘Although he earned his living taking clients into the mountains, he never showed any interest in becoming a certified (by whos standards?) member of the Association of British Mountain guides. This drew criticism from some quarters, byt Mal was untroubled by it. Affable and charismatic, he rose above it all, and his clients returned to him time and again, unconcerned by the fact that his business lacked official endorsement.’  Mal Duff, had few peers…

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Rolling Contract for the MMT from 1999 (11 Feb 2010)

Sunday, June 1st, 2008

According to the minutes of the ninth Meeting in 1999, members of the English Sports Council (government quango) voted on a paper (ESC 99/9.3) which outlined proposed changes to the contractual position at Plas-y-Brenin (given to the British Mountaineering Council (BMC) and the Association of British Mountain Guides (BMG) a commercial organisation with less than a perfect safety record where its mountain clients are concerned, for nil consideration in 1997) the National Mountain Centre. The purpose of the changes was to – strengthen the capability of Mountain Training Trust Ltd (cobbled together in order to control not only the management of PyB but to also control £450,000 yearly of government hand-outs) in carrying out operations at the centre Mr Marshall con-firmed the success that MTT had enjoyed in running the centre (assisted greatly by the above mentioned huge amount of government subsidy). Council agreed to the contractual changes, including the introduction of a rolling contract (no doubt in line with another EC Directive?) to 2006, proposals for MTT to retain small surpluses, and the introduction of – more rigorous (capture an even larger slice of the outdoor pursuit market assisted with government money) targets. Council also agreed that the new arrangements should be implemented from 1 October, 1999 and commended John Davies and Ian Holmes, of Sport England’s National Centres Unit, for the excellent work they had undertaken in this (disgraceful) matter. The way in which PyB was given away for nil consideration against an EC Directive and the way in which the management was snatched away from Glendale Leisure (who originally won the contract) and the abuse they then received from the BMC throught the pages of its official magazine – High Mountain Sport will be to the eternal disgrace of the English Sports Council… During the previous twenty years, when PyB was also run by members of the BMG, PyB lost 100′s of 1,000′s of £ due to poor management . As a reward – they now have a rolling contract to 2006 along with least – £3,150,000 with which to compete quite unfaily – on the open market…   

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Trevor Jones the BMC Critic. High Magazine Feb 1996

Sunday, June 1st, 2008

Dear Sir, It is not surprising that the government is going to reduce the amount of money given to The Sports Council. The BMC has recklessly squandered tens of thousands of pounds (hundreds of thousands of pounds actually) in the promotion of sport climbing contests. Interest in such events is limited to a small percentage of the mountaineering world. I suggest that if their money to the BMC is drastically cut the BMC should be awarded the shot-in-the-foot prize.

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Rigorous and Robust Rules

Sunday, June 1st, 2008

“The challenge” said Iain Peter “is that it’s not just about having rigorous and robust rules – it’s in making people stick to them”. Iain Peter is the Chief Executive of Plas-y_Brenin (that Pillar of Learning) in North Wales.

Just what are these rigorous and robust rules, and where do they emanate from?

It was Plas-y-Brenin (PyB) that hosted the ‘Protect and Survive’ seminar, the details of which were published in the January 1989 issue of High (the official magazine of the BMC) along with a full page colour photograph. The seminar, which was heavily attended by ‘official’ mountain guides and instructors, discussed the most up to date use of ice axes and crampons and other pieces of modern ice climbing/winter mountaineering protection.

The full-page colour picture shows two ice climbers high on a mountain face belayed to a single, poorly placed, ice screw. Also in the picture, but not being employed in the belay, are two ice axes.

Ironically, 18 months later, a member of the Association of British Mountain Guides (BMG) who may well have attended the “Protect and Survive” seminar at PyB, climbed away from his client high on a North face in the French Alps, belayed by a single ice screw. When the guide fell, the dangerous belay failed and he dragged his client to his death. The guide survived. This incident resulted in the case of Hedley v Cuthbertson (q.v.)

Some rigorous and robust rules are highlighted below:

Robust Rule No 1: the guide always descends behind the client so that he can control any slip or fall.

Mike Rheinbereger (client) was left at the top of the Second Step on Everest’s North Ridge by his guide, who had descended the Step ahead of him, and thus descended before him. Mike was unable to descend; he was snow-blind, weak and confused. As a result he was left and abandoned by his guide. Had the guide sent Rheinbereger down the Step first, lowering him if necessary, then it is possible that Mike would not have been left to die alone in such a terrible condition; a diabolical, and in my view, avoidable situation.

On 13th May 1999, a client of a commercial expedition company – OTT (which is a BMG and IGO 8000 member), was left on the summit slopes of Everest by his guide. Had the guide been descending behind the client, he would not have lost contact with the client. In my opinion, the guide should have been roped to the client but he was not.

In both cases, the expeditions that had brought these clients to the upper slopes of Everest did not have the means to effect a rescue. In Rheinberger’s case, the expedition leader, over the radio, told the guide to descend and leave the client behind. That disgraceful episode was in my view totally avoidable.

Three clients of an Association of British Mountain Guides member were killed in a fall down the West Flank of the Eiger in 1992. Their guide was descending first, not last, and in the ensuing fall by the last client the guide was not able to stop the falling clients.

Your guide must always descend last. This is Rule No 1.

Robust Rule No 2: always wear a helmet and use ice axe and crampons on any glacier.

Jane Bussman wrote an article in the Daily Mail after her failed attempt on Mont Blanc. She was on a BMG Jagged Globe alpine course. Several of her comments in the article were alarming, bearing in mind that she was a client, but it was the photograph that accompanied the article that really caught my attention. Jane is pictured, ice axe strapped safely onto her rucksack, approaching a huge crevasse with trekking poles as she walks on a wet glacier. Her safety helmet is not on her head. I guess it was tucked safely away inside her rucksack!

For several years now, I have been collecting pictorial evidence of ‘qualified’ guides leading their clients across wet glaciers. The guide and client both supporting themselves with ski-sticks

On a dry glacier most of the crevasses are evident, but there are still huge ‘chambers’ hidden under thin sheets of ice. On a wet glacier, the vast majority of crevasses are hidden with or by a layer of snow. The ice-axe for self-arrest is therefore vital when travelling across any glacier.

Fall into a crevasse whilst not wearing a helmet and you can be severely injured. Who looks after the ‘qualified’ guide’s client when the guide (many of whom disdain the wearing of helmets when walking on glaciers) is injured or killed? It has happened!

In 1992, I was called to a dangerous situation on the Mer du Glace above Chamonix whilst practising crevasse rescue with some clients. We were hailed from a distance by a lone woman standing on the flat ice. Walking across to her, she pointed into a crevasse in front of her. In the bottom of it was the crumpled figure of a man. He had tripped over his own crampons and fallen headfirst into the twenty-foot crevasse. He was jammed, where the crevasse narrowed, his neck almost twisted back-to-front and he was very badly lacerated. I effected his rescue and took him back to Montenvers. His injuries would have been much less if only he had been wearing a helmet but he was not. His ice axe? This was not fixed to his wrist by a loop and so disappeared into the narrow almost bottomless crevasse. He was a very lucky man.

Robust Rule No 3… I could fill a web site with robust rules that have been broken time and time again by qualified guides who are qualified to strict safety criteria………………….

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Millenium Epitaph

Sunday, June 1st, 2008

A Millennium Epitaph to clients of the Association of British Mountain Guides
1988 – 2010

I have mentioned elsewhere in this site, a letter published on behalf of the Association of British Mountain Guides in Climber magazine in 1988, it includes the following concerns:

“A client who decides to employ a guide expects the very highest professional service from someone who has over many years gained considerable experience and skill in the mountains in all conditions… We are therefore very concerned that any member of the public is subjected to an inferior and probably dangerous service by someone who may call himself a mountain guide… Let us know if you know of any bogus guides – we will investigate…”

[Likewise, please let me know if you have had a narrow escape whilst with a 'qualified professional' we have many such stories.]

It is possible that some of the deceased BMG/UIAGM/IFMGA/AMI clients in the following roll-call were enticed by that 1988 letter and by subsequent BMG / UIAGM / IFMGA/AMI advertising offering guarantees of safety or ‘security’:

Mr G. Hedley 1990, Phil Davies 1992, Willie Dunnachie 1992, Douglas Gaines 1992, Dr H. Kerr 1994

Emma Ray 1998** Paul Hopkins 1998** Matthew Lewis 1998** Ian Edwards 1998** Michael Matthews 1999,

Julie Colverd 2004, Robert Pritchard 2010, Peter Kinloch 2010

Because the full details of other fatalities and serious injuries to BMG clients are not known (the information is not forthcoming), they could not be included here but they will be if that information is ever made public. Many injuries, serious injuries and some fatalities are included in the Appendix of the book by Blyth White: “A Chance in a Million”.

The true number of fatalities to BMG clients at the two supposed Elite Mountain Centres at Glenmore Lodge and Plas-y-Brenin is also not known. Blyth White’s book goes some way in showing the actual [in]competence of some members of the BMG when it comes to client care.

My intention in presenting this information is not to upset anyone who may have lost a relative or a friend whilst climbing with ‘qualified’ guides/instructors. My principal hope is that in pursuing the facts of the various cases the ongoing catalogue of death to mountain clients can be drastically reduced or even stopped.

Since 1988 it is my view that mountain clients have been denied choice in their search for a safe guide/ instructor by the machinations of the British Mountaineering Council and the BMG/IFMGA. It appears to be their intention that guides/instructors with vast experience and the desired qualities should be put out of work and be denied the opportunity to make their living – contrary to the comments, guidelines in Langmuirs original outdoor pursuit book. BMG guides have, as required, employed in Europe ‘none qualified’ instructors guides when it has suited them.

**Their BMG guide went on to become the – Mountain Safety Officer for Scotland…

Two of Willie Dunnachie’s sons have made contact with mountainclients, Eddie in 2005 and William in 2009: ‘Our family was left in dire straights after the 1992 Eiger accident…’, wrote William who’s father died along with two other British Mountain Guide (BMG) clients on the West Flank of the Eiger in 1992 (see Eiger Sanction).

11 UIAGM/IFMGA guides have been killed in mountain accidents since November, 2008 the fate of their clients, is as yet, unknown. And yet – on the 1st July,2004: The then secretary of the BMG stated that – “It is very rare for a mountain guide to be killed…” Really!

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Institutionalism

Sunday, June 1st, 2008

Whilst interfering in the workings of independent organisations, instructors or guides which are not members of the British Mountaineering Council, the BMC has supported the autonomous Association of British Mountain Guides (now BMG) financially. This was confirmed in a letter from Kate Hoey, the then Minister for Sport. Additional support has been provided with office space and with advertising.

Even though at least 13 BMG clients have been killed since 1990 in avoidable climbing accidents there has never been a word of condemnation from the BMC or High Mountain Sport (the official magazine of the BMC) or The Sports Council/English Sport.

The problem [too many avoidable BMG accidents] may stem from a situation, which was the subject of a comment made by Peter Livesey in May 1998 regarding the BMC:

“The wasteful and vitriolic mountain leadership wars of the mid-70s fought for control of mountain training in this country…has resulted in the most appalling set of low level courses and examinations in subjects tenuously titled Outdoor Pursuits which must have traditional mountain users squirming with discomfort”.

Peter Livesey was one of our most respected rock climbers during the 1970s and is not the only person to have remarked upon this issue

Regardless of this view, it is my view that these formal qualifications remain inadequate and I believe this is supported by the poor accident record of those people who have secured these qualifications.

In 1984 the then general secretary of the BMC criticised Plas-y-Brenin expressing:

“a real sense of moral indignation at the waste, at the disproportionate spending of public resources which could have been better spent and more needfully employed elsewhere”.

He thought that the then £300,000 paid annually by the British taxpayer to the National Mountain Centre at Capel Curig, North Wales was a complete waste of public money. Today, the BMC run Plas-y-Brenin, the National Mountain Centre, a multi-million pound building, which, as I have referred to earlier, they picked up for a song. The complex provides the BMG with a nice office from which to peddle their wares along with free access to the site’s facilities and they benefit commercially from PyB’s £27,000 per annum advertising bill.

With so much support it is no wonder that the BMC/BMG can get away with what I see as their cavalier attitude. A “fatal” attitude that, in my view, has no place in modern society.

My investigation continues…

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