Frequently Asked Questions
Sunday, June 1st, 2008
The Most Frequently Asked Questions By Mountain Clients are…
“Whatever happened to – choice?”
“Why, wasn’t I shown that on my last course?”
“Are you a member of the Association of British Mountain Guides?”
“Why not?”
“Do you have a professional qualification from the IFMGA?”
“Why not?”
“Why, wasn’t I shown that on my last course?”
“Are you a member of the Association of British Mountain Guides?”
“Why not?”
“Do you have a professional qualification from the IFMGA?”
“Why not?”
“Have you ‘lost’ any clients?”
“Can I come again?”
So many questions, my favourite being: “Are you a member of the – BMG; the UIAGM; IFMGA?”
The standard reply being (unprintable): No, I would die of embarrassment. So many court-cases; too many Fatal Accident Inquiries no, our definition of: client care is not the same as the BMG’s. And anyway, cartel’s are illegal on main land Europe. Especially, professional bodies who take; use clients hard earned holiday money and then, loose the client. The money, never repaid…
“Why do the BMG/BMC close ranks after each and every climbing accident involving ‘one of their own’ and yet, go ‘public’ when a private organisation (The Scouts Association for example) has a similar problem?”
The next most frequently asked questions are: about choice; the freedom to choose especially, when personal safety is at stake: ‘Graham, is a fine, up standing, virile, highly recommended and lets face it; safe – independent mountain guide. So why the hell, did I have too employ – Gerald?’ Gerald, turned out to be the kind of ‘qualified’ weed that grows…
“Why didn’t the BMC or The Sports Council stop false BMG advertising as removed by the Advertising Stansards Authority – at the request of the Association of Mountain Clients in 1997 – why?”
Why, has the British Mountaineering Council never, supported a BMG client after an avoidable accident?
Why, as the supposed governming body of climbing, does the BMC not advocate the wearing of correct, climbing safety equipment?
Why, did/does the BMC support financially the – BMG whilst also supporting that autonomous organisation with office space and advertising against, the best interests of – mountain clients?
So many questions and no – answers…
‘How to Choose a Mountain Guide?’
That question was posed by the American Mountain Guides Association
‘Most people expect formal training of a doctor or lawyer. Shouldn’t you ask the same from your guides?’
The British Medical Association (BMA) has been the biggest op-poser of the British National Health Service (NHS) since its conception and yet, the BMA has ensured that it – has ‘controlled’ the NHS ever since. The NHS today (2001) is in a mess, (£millions of pounds wasted, most of it pocketed by – members of the BMA) patients (clients) dying needlessly in ever growing numbers; clients left in hospital corridors (dying) on trollies for hours because there are not enough beds.
The less said about – lawyers the better: http://www.cameronlaw.com/jokes/Jokes about the legal profession would fill many web-pages. And comments from many clients of the Legal Profession who have been ruined with no recourse due to a lack of – professional care would fill a hard drive. Likewise, professional guiding has become a – joke (11 killed between 2009/2001). Clients not receiving due care and attention…
Climbing/mountaineering to the contrary, was supposed to be, used to be, ‘something special’. As Walter Bonatti put it: ‘A shining light on the scales of human values.’ It used to be..
A typical e-mail to Mountain Clients:
‘Dennis, Been thinking about Aconcagua. So of course I thought Guiding Light. From your website I see you are going in Feb/Mar, 2002. Unfortunately I have free time end of Dec/Jan 2002, when everyone is on holiday for Christmas. If you are not going then, can you suggest another reputable company I can try? I would rather like to avoid the Smiler Cuthbertsons (BMG) of this world. Thanks, Ian.’
Though almost completely unknown in British climbing circles: Lord Hunt was ‘eminently qualified’ to lead the 1953 Mount Everest Expedition (comment in several publications).?
He also wrote: ‘…as a boy I climbed with mountain guides and – learnt nothing.’
A Club Westploration client: ‘Club Westploration are in terms of experience – eminently qualified.’
‘Rope Boy’, author Dennis Gray, ex-general secretary of the British Mountaineering Council: ‘There is no – substitute for experience.’
Dennis Morrod (founder also of Mountainclients) Born in Manchester August, 1941
Rock Climbing/Mountaineering since 1952
Royal Marine: Climbing in many parts of the world since 1959
Freelance; Professional Climbing Instructor (only BMG guides are allowed to call themslves ‘guides’ in the UK and Europe – according to the BMC?) since 1966
Has made 135 ascents of Mont Blanc; 32 ascents of Mount Kilimanjaro etc
18 First Ascents (five solo) in the UK
Has assisted/rescued, 31 climbers who were in distress, only one of whom, subsequently died.
Is not a member of the Association of British Mounatin Guides UIAGM/IFMGA because, of their safety record or, a lack of one…
In 1978, because it seemed the right thing to do at the time; I did not then know any better, I paid over a £1,000 for a three months course at the ‘elite’ mountain centre – Plas-y-Brenin (BMG). Whilst I learnt – nothing, at the end of the final week (as a client), I was left to descend alone with a damaged knee from the Cuillin Ridge – to Sligachan. The ‘qualified’ BMG guide; course leader, disappeared along with the rest of the course – into the night…
PS. It was I, who arranged in 1980, for – all hill walkers, rock climbers and mountaineers to have a reduction in continental coach fares through Wallace Arnold. Three months later, after my third advert; advertising this non profit making offer – something for the climbing community, the BMC started to make the – same, identical offer – to ‘climbers’.
After I stopped advertising the offer (I was not receiving government grants for services to the sport – like the BMC) the BMC changed its advert to – ‘members only’…
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