Frequently Asked Questions
Sunday, June 1st, 2008
The Most Frequently Asked Questions By Mountain Clients are…
“Whatever happened to – choice?”
“Why, wasn’t I shown that on my last course?”
“Are you a member of the Association of British Mountain Guides?”
“Why not?”
“Do you have a professional qualification from the IFMGA?”
“Why not?”
“Why, wasn’t I shown that on my last course?”
“Are you a member of the Association of British Mountain Guides?”
“Why not?”
“Do you have a professional qualification from the IFMGA?”
“Why not?”
“Have you ‘lost’ any clients?”
“Can I come again?”
So many questions, my favourite being: “Are you a member of the – BMG; the UIAGM; IFMGA?”
The standard reply being (unprintable): No, I would die of embarrassment. So many court-cases; too many Fatal Accident Inquiries no, our definition of: client care is not the same as the BMG’s. And anyway, cartel’s are illegal on main land Europe. Especially, professional bodies who take; use clients hard earned holiday money and then, loose the client. The money, never repaid…
“Why do the BMG/BMC close ranks after each and every climbing accident involving ‘one of their own’ and yet, go ‘public’ when a private organisation (The Scouts Association for example) has a similar problem?”
The next most frequently asked questions are: about choice; the freedom to choose especially, when personal safety is at stake: ‘Graham, is a fine, up standing, virile, highly reccommended and lets face it; safe – independent mountain guide. So why the hell, did I have too employ – Gerald?’ Gerald, turned out to be the kind of ‘qualified’ weed that grows…
“Why didn’t the BMC or The Sports Council stop false BMG advertising as removed by the Advertising Stansards Authority – at the request of the Association of Mountain Clients in 1997 – why?”
Why, has the British Mounatineering Council never, supported a BMG client after an avoidable accident?
Why, as the supposed governming body of climbing, does the BMC not advocate the wearing of correct, climbing safety equipment?
Why, did/does the BMC support financially the – BMG whilst also supporting that autonomous organisation with office space and advertising against, the best intersts of – mountain clients?
So many questions and no – answers…
‘How to Choose a Mountain Guide?’
That question was posed by the American Mountain Guides Association
‘Most people expect formal training of a doctor or lawyer. Shouldn’t you ask the same from your guides?’
The British Medical Association (BMA) has been the biggest opposer of the British National Health Service (NHS) since its conception and yet, the BMA has ensured that it – has ‘controlled’ the NHS ever since. The NHS today (2001) is in a mess, (£millions of pounds wasted, most of it pocketed by – members of the BMA) patients (clients) dying needlessly in ever growing numbers; clients left in hospital corridors (dying) on trollies for hours because there are not enough beds.
The less said about – lawyers the better: http://www.cameronlaw.com/jokes/ Jokes about the legal profession would fill many web-pages. And comments from many clients of the Legal Profession who have been ruined with no recourse due to a lack of – professional care would fill a hard drive. Likewise, professional guiding has become a – joke. Clients not receiving due care and attention…
Climbing/mountaineering to the contrary, was supposed to be, used to be, ‘something special’. As Walter Bonatti put it: ‘A shining light on the scales of human values.’ It used to be..
A typical e-mail to Mountain Clients:
‘Dennis, Been thinking about Aconcagua. So of course I thought Guiding Light. From your website I see you are going in Feb/Mar, 2002. Unfortunately I have free time end of Dec/Jan 2002, when everyone is on holiday for Christmas. If you are not going then, can you suggest another reputable company I can try? I would rather like to avoid the Smiler Cuthbertsons (BMG) of this world. Thanks, Ian.’
Though almost completely unknown in British climbing circles: Lord Hunt was ‘eminently qualified’ to lead the 1953 Mount Everest Expedition (comment in several publications).?
He also wrote: ‘…as a boy I climbed with mountain guides and – learnt nothing.’
A Club Westploration client: ‘Club Westploration are in terms of experience – eminently qualified.’
‘Rope Boy’, author Dennis Gray, ex-general secretary of the British Mountaineering Council: ‘There is no – substitute for experience.’
Dennis Morrod (founder also of MountainClients) Born in Manchester August, 1941
Rock Climbing/Mountaineering since 1952
Royal Marine: Climbing in many parts of the world since 1959
Freelance; Professional Climbing Instructor (only BMG guides are allowed to call themslves ‘guides’ in the UK and Europe – according to the BMC?) since 1966
Has made 135 ascents of Mont Blanc; 32 ascents of Mount Kilimanjaro etc
18 First Ascents (five solo) in the UK
Has assisted/rescued, 31 climbers who were in distress, only one of whom, subsequently died.
Is not a member of the Association of British Mounatin Guides UIAGM/IFMGA because, of their safety record or, a lack of one…
In 1978, because it seemed the right thing to do at the time; I did not then know any better, I paid over a £1,000 for a three months course at the ‘elite’ mountain centre – Plas-y-Brenin (BMG). Whilst I learnt – nothing, at the end of the final week (as a client), I was left to descend alone with a damaged knee from the Cuillin Ridge – to Sligachan. The ‘qualified’ BMG guide; course leader, disappeared along with the rest of the course – into the night…
PS. It was I, who arranged in 1980, for – all hill walkers, rock climbers and mountaineers to have a reduction in continental coach fares through Wallace Arnold. Three months later, after my third advert; advertising this non profit making offer – something for the climbing community, the BMC started to make the – same, identical offer – to ‘climbers’.
After I stopped advertising the offer (I was not receiving government grants for services to the sport – like the BMC) the BMC changed its advert to – ‘members only’…
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