Monday, June 2nd, 2008
The UIAA does not know whether it is coming or going… There were mixed feeling today (22 Dec, 2004) when it was announced that a rotund ex-climber / mountaineer is to be the next President of the UIAA. If they can pry present President’s (Ian McNaught-Davis) fingers from around the Chair, Mr Ian Blackshaw should take over the UIAA early in the New Year. Though not mentioned in a recent list of top, over sixty years old climbers still climbing at 5C, he used to climb to a high standard, though as I say, not recently. Whilst a recent climbing magazine referred to Mr McNaught-Davis, unkindly, as Fat Mac (apparently a helicopter had difficulty getting of the ground on the Isle of Skye), Mr Blackshaws appears to be more athletic. Apparently, there was shock and dismay from some younger (BMG) members of the UIAA who thought that they might be in the running for the lucrative, prestigous, position. Ellation turned to shock and horror though just one year into the new Presidents rein when it was anounced: ‘Alan Blackshaw resigned as President of the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) just one year (28 Oct 2005) after being unanimously elected.’ Apparently, the President threw his ‘dummy out of the cot’ following a vote not to accept his President’s Report for 2005.
Born in Liverpool in 1933 and educate at Merchant Taylor’s School and Crosby and Wadham College, Oxford. He apparently began hillwalking in 1948 and climbing in 1949, and has been to most climbing areas in Britain. He has climbed over fifty difficult alpine routes, including, the first British, guideless ascent of the North East face of the Piz Badile and the North face of the Aiguille Triolet. He apparently, went to the Caucasus with Lord Hunt in 1958 and also to North-East Greenland in 1960.
A keen climbing / mountaineering instructor, he worked at Glenmore Lodge in 1952. he was a mountaineering instructor in the Royal Marine Commandos during his ‘two years of National Service’ and continued mountaineeering and ski instruction in the Royal Marine Reserve he has been President of the British Mountaineering Council on several occasions also Vice-President of the Climbers’ Club. He has written articles for club journals and lectured and broadcasted about his expeditions.He has written at least two books: Mountaineering (who needs to wear safety head protection was one of the main themes) and Sking (covering ever aspect).
Mr Blackshaw, also worked as an Under-Secretary in the Department of Energy at its Offshore Supplies Office in Glasgow. living all of his life in Scotland, it is thought that his new status might dictate a more suitable, large, Swiss Chalet.
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