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Cosygate: BMC 200,000 Pound Loan to the – Climbers Club

Monday, August 16th, 2010

July, 2010:   At a time of  economic depression for many in the UK, the Climbers Club (CC) are seeking a, not unsubstantial loan, of 200,000 pounds from the – British Mountaineering Council (BMC) climbing’s representative but would be governing body. Two years ago, the BMC wasted a considerable amount of members / taxpayers money when it flooded the UK climbing scene with – 10,000 expansion bolts. It would appear, that at a time when the British government is concerned about the nations housing problem, the CC want to buy a – hut! and a very expensive hut at that. In 2009, when no doubt the above mentioned loan was first mooted, the CC staged its glittering guidebook anniversary lunch (100 Years) that was attended by, in the main, the wealthy great and good, members who could have raised the 200,000 pounds – over drinkies. Surely? Apparently, the BMC’s treasurer is also the treasurer of the – Climbers Club! You couldn’t make it up…

And then of course, there was the Lindagate affair when 20,000 pounds of members / taxpayers money went missing, Brazilgate (a South American scam) and Brenin(This Spendid Enterprise)gate**, when the charitable MTT faught off the competition (Glendale Leisure) by lobbying the then government thus landing a 450,000 pound government con-tract; annual government hand-out of taxpayers money with which to compete in the outdoor pursuits market and then there are the ’skeletens-in-the-cupboard’ mentioned in-passing in the BMC’s book: ‘The First Fifty Years’, page xi in the Editorial Introduction. And then of course there was the  political machinations of the Mountain Leadership tussle for control of a muti-million pound market. 

In 1986 the BMC had already made a 6,000 pound (a considerable amount twenty four years ago) loan (there may have be more) to the CC… At a time when the BMC was trying to put other climbers already offering services to climbers (reduced coach travel for climbers with National Express and then Eurolines was already being offered when the BMC – pounced) out of business, the BMC was making a considerable loan to the CC to create a – guidebook! Well maybe you could make it up if you really tried… ‘We lobbied the government in order to get the management of Plas-y-Brenin away from Glendale Leisure’, Glendale being the Sports Council’s original preferred bidder in 1996, Glendale who’s bid was made in pounds sterling by the date set by a European Directive. Just ten years before, the then General Secretary of the BMC thought that PyB was a: ‘needless waste of money that could be more needfully spent elsewhere’, he went on to mention the status quo and vested interests in the place and that people did not need such a palatial; expensive place in which to learn to climb (Climber magazine 1985).

** ‘Faced with a loss of moral amongst the staff and an uncertain future, the Advisory Committee of Plas-y-Brenin took the step of lobbying government in order to block the transfer to Glendale leisure. The national ‘governing’ bodies had a vested interest (along with a 450,000 pound annual incentive) in maintaining the status quo at the Centre. Their backing – combined with that of Martin Doyle (BMG) and the Centre staff – helped, and the negotiations (Sports Council – Glendale Leisure) broke down’. Step forward the cobbled-together Mountain Training Trust…

 http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=421196  http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=412534&v=1#x5884326  http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1775

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DJonsight

Wednesday, August 4th, 2010

The wag DJonsight was soo keen to pick-me up; try to spoil a posting - on punctuation: Cornish Controversy Cont…  http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=419492 and yet, as with this kind of person, their own writing can fall far short: On the post Pacemaker (26 July), though an obvious expert on the English language, DJonsight seems to have a problem with – spelling – ‘staight’ apparently means a straight line and ‘decription (if you can pronounce it)’ apparently means – some kind of; a new approach to – ‘description’. Experts eh…

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Libeled as Completely Barking

Monday, July 12th, 2010

On the ‘Question-mark’ thread where avoidable damage to Cornish cliffs and crags has – once again been highlighted in 2010: to be libeled as: ‘Now he is completely barking’, (ukclimbing.com 12 July, 2010 at 14:26h on a thread that I offered no opinion of my own; a thread that has attracted over 60,000 visits from other climbers and maybe, past, present and potential mountain clients) for merely trying to stop further deaths and injury to the clients of members of the UIAGM/BMG by -  ‘Jon’ Jon de Montjoye (UIAGM) takes the cake (he seems to be very familier with the subject – probably an expert on being certified barking**). In 1997, advertising by the UIAGM/BMG was withdrawn from a specialist magazine; High magazine  by the Trading Standards Authority after a widow finally won her court case – seven years after the avoidable death of her husband in – another avoidable guided, climbing accident. At the time of her husbands death, the UIAGM/BMG advert was offering: ‘Adventure with Security, why chance everything, on anything less. Our Logo is your – guarantee… We have a comprehensive insurance scheme’, - try claiming on it. After compensation was finally awarded (after seven years – 1990-1997) an Appeal was actually considered. ** Quote on currant ukclimbing Forum – Afghan Guides: ‘By comparison, a guide (UIAGM) in the French Alps has to train for several years before being – certified.’ In a 2001 Review of the Climbers Club, West Cornwall guidebook, a reviewer wrote and the Climbers Club  printed: ‘Without wishing to rekindle the controversy (Cornish) I think the politics of the Edwards saga should have been toned down even more and that the – fine and extensive contribution made by Roland and Mark should stand without slur’… Finite rock, future climbers? Who needs in excess of 500 new routes (many of the them damaged) under their belt?

http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/journal/original/2001%20Journal-p123-144.pdf  Page 139.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=416516

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=419492

 I will call him Andy due to the typical action shown by the likes of Montjoye)  Andy e-mailed me dated the 12 Oct, 2009 and states: “Hi Dennis, absolutely amazing site, well researched and gives answers and food for thought on so many mountaineering related topics. I served as an ML1 in the Royal Marines Mountain and Arctic Warfare cadre now retired but made a living as an independent guide, mostly taking clients to Nepal and South America. I would often go to PyB to refresh first aid etc., etc, the reception I got (when they knew I took folks away without their approval (lol) was sometimes very, very annoying. life is strange hey mate? I guided and instructed for over 40 years and never lost a client or called out Mountain Rescue. Keep up the site. I genuinely know where you are coming from – ‘ it all wants saying’. Certainly, there is a Question-mark hanging over certain UIAGM activities including involvement in the above controversy.

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Bolts, Burgers – Chips Curtousy of the BMC

Saturday, July 3rd, 2010

July, 2010:  True to its headlong love affair with bolting, against the wishes of the vast majority of British climbers, the British Mountaineering Council  has invited people (I won’t call them – climbers) to attend a ‘bolt placing bash’ (with maybe some chipping practice thrown in)  at Frogmouth Quarry (a wonderful climbing venue) which will include refreshments on the 18 July, 2010. At least the burgers & chips, will not be a waste of money. Toileting will no doubt be – well covered.

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