Important information for the clients of mountain guides

Vixen Tor – Shock

June 2nd, 2008 Posted in Misc | No Comments »
28 February, 2005: Apparently, there is ’shock and anger’ at the Ramblers Association over the descision of the Dartmoor Planing Inspectrate to keep an access ban at Vixtor Tor. Not the best-man-won no, shock and anger. Perhaps if the Association had not alighned itself with the British Mountaineering Council in this protest it might have done better; there might have been different outcome.
Talk about David and Goliath, a lone woman and her son against the machinations – freedom ro roam – regardless of who’s land we trample over. That these Association’s (with apparently nothing better to do) will continue (supported by tax-payers – wasting taxpayers money) to put pressure on this woman is a disgrace.

2004 Year of Hard Knocks (27 Feb 2005)

June 2nd, 2008 Posted in Mountain Clients | No Comments »
French mountain guides had a particularly bad year in 2004. According to: http://www.pistehors.com/comments/375_0_1_0_C/ they lost 9 guides along with 6 mountain clients, apparently, twice the annual average. I will leave you to therefore, work out how many clients have been lost, on average, annually in the past… The above statistic of course, pales in the light of five guides and nine clients (aspirent guides) who were killed in a single avalanche in June, 1964, on the Aiguille Vert above Chamonix.

Vixen Tor Inquiry (16 Jan 2006)

June 2nd, 2008 Posted in Court Cases | No Comments »
On the 24th February, 2005, the British Mountaineering Council (BMC) lost, its attempt at gaining access to the private land on which stands Vixen Tor (the sitiuation remains unresolved until, the BMC gets it’s way) a small granite outcrop on the edge of Dartmoor. Access to Vixen Tor, a non descript piece of moorland granite is being used by the BMC in their attempt at representing climbers and hillwalkers representation in which, it has failed over the last 50 years… The Inspector, appointed by the Secretary of State for Environment found in favour of Mrs Alford and her son against whom, the BMC along with the ramblers Association, arrayed themselves against, a mother and son, determined, to gain access to their private land. Try camping in the garden of the BMC’s offices; outside the BMC’s converted chapel in Manchester…. For some reason, and their must ahve been a reason, a mother and her son prevailed against the machinations; the combined efforts of the BMC and the Ramblers Association… On New Years Day, 2006, the Alford family and friends once again, had their day ruined, spoilt, when more protesters appeared, trespassing on their land.
But then ’something happened’ as is usual with anything involving the BMC getting its ‘own way’, suddenly, something happened to gavanise the Dartmoor authority into announcing that it may purchase Vixen Tor to regain access for everyone, in fact, anyone, to the Dartmoor landmark, thus bringing forward its demise at the hands of BMB’s, British Mad Bolter’s the vast majority of whom, being members of the BMC.
The latest turn of events that may help to thwart the BMC’s latest escapade for publicity was the dropping of charges against Mrs Alford and two friends by the Crown Prosecution Service (CPS). Mrs Alford and friends were accussed of assaulting two trespassing climber’s cutting one of their ropes in the process (Plymouth Evening Herald, 30 Nov 2005)
Whilst members of the BMC are saying on the Internet – that the BMC itself is not involved it is interesting to note: ‘The BMC is seeking clarifation on why – the CPS chose to drop the charges, and the BMC will be asking whether the CPS had sufficient technical understanding of the seriousness of cutting a climber’s rope while he was leading.’ The same BMC of course uttered and wrote not a single word when a climber deliberately, cut the rope on which was hanging his already injured – companion. On one hand the cutting of a rope is – very serious and on the other hand – it is not serious at all… No doubt one or several of the BMC’s new ‘expert witness’ might have to be called in to show the judge, if their an Appeal, just what happens when you cut a climber’s rope especially, when his friend is hanging on it.
One wag who has by now ’signed the Petition’ against Mrs Alford showed just how much knowledge he had, about this area of Dartmoor an area with which he is soo – concerned: ‘I did not know that their were cows in that area’, (Rockfax Vixon Tor Petition Thread). Not only does the Vixon Tor area have substantial numbers of cattle roaming around, several are injured and killed by passing cars each year. Attracting climbers with their extra vehicles to the area (for such a miniscule piece of granite) could, add to the unsatisfactory situation regarding local livestock.
So the BMC is concerned about access to Vixen Tor are they? I recently re aquainted myself (16 January 2006) with the ‘loss of access’ created by the BMC in a joint venture with the Dartmoor Park Authority at the Dewerstone, Devil’s Rock. Many years ago long lengths of unsightly wooden ballistrades suddenly appeared and I lost access to certain parts of the Dewerstone. Those ‘barriers’ are still there (rotting in places) along with 5 foot posts entwined with barbed wire, just strewn around near the foot of Devil’s Rock. For thirty years I climbed regularly at the Dewertsone but once my access was ruined (by un-sightly fencing) by the so-called British Mountainering Council Access Code for the Dewerstone, I very rarely go there anymore.
And the BMC wants complete access to Vixen Tor? Not before they clear-up the mess that they created at the Dewerstone I hope.

Another, avalanche accident on Anoch Mor (10 Jan 2005)

June 2nd, 2008 Posted in Avalanche | No Comments »
On the 29 December, 2004, exactly six years to the day (when Scotland’s full-time mountain safety officer Roger Wild ‘lost’ four clients), another avalanche accident occured on Anoch Mor. The local rescue team and a helicopter were called out to rescue two climbers, Mike Pescod and ANother (no further details available – yet) one of whom is reportedly injured (?). This is thought to have been a BMG lead incident (it is quite obvious that the names and possible occupation of one of the climbers is being surpressed). One rescuer, luckily, only broke his leg during the rescue. Interestingly, both UIAGM / IFMGA guides are giving ‘winter mountain safety’ talks at the Clachaig Inn in, March, 2005…
25 February, 2010: Client and Jagged Globe instructor avalanched and killed in Glencoe: http://outdoors.caladonianmercury.com/2010/03/01/avalanche-victims-were-with-mountain-guide-company/0034

Switzerland Canyoning Disaster (29 Dec 2004)

June 2nd, 2008 Posted in Accidents | No Comments »
Adventure sports in the Alps were brash and cocky until July 27, 1999. On that tragic day, a group of young tourists, led by gung-ho mountain guides, who ignored warning of an impending storm (nothing new there then). They were caught in an avalanche of stones and logs brought down by a flash flood and 21 young people died… The memorial to the 21 dead, is at Saxetbach just three miles up the Saxetbach valley from Interlaken. Twenty one towers of stone ornament a peaceful garden. There is also a 30-foot wide notice board filed with love letters from family, peoms from partners, and sad notes from friends…
In August, 1979, six Swiss soldiers were killed when 22 soldiers were taken into avalanche conditions by their Swiss UIAGM/IFMGA guide. In July, 1980, he was aquitted of negligence Oof course) by a Zurich Tribunal.

Bill Wilson (26 Dec 2004)

June 2nd, 2008 Posted in Misc | No Comments »
Bill Wilson bill.wilson@minorplanet.com on the 30 September, 2003, wrote to me via e-mail: ‘Mr Rupar is quite obviously a racist Bigot who’s comments could not possibly be taken seriously, given his embedded hatred of the english. Let us hope that if he still braves the hills that a similare fate does not befall him..’ Mr Rupar, a qualified avalcnche expert had commented that: ‘Whilst it is understandable that inexperienced climbers become involved in avalanches, experienced climbers who are involved in avalanches must be either myopic, English or a combination of both…’

Blackshaw to head UIAA – er, maybe not… (3 Apr 2006)

June 2nd, 2008 Posted in News | No Comments »
The UIAA does not know whether it is coming or going… There were mixed feeling today (22 Dec, 2004) when it was announced that a rotund ex-climber / mountaineer is to be the next President of the UIAA. If they can pry present President’s (Ian McNaught-Davis) fingers from around the Chair, Mr Ian Blackshaw should take over the UIAA early in the New Year. Though not mentioned in a recent list of top, over sixty years old climbers still climbing at 5C, he used to climb to a high standard, though as I say, not recently. Whilst a recent climbing magazine referred to Mr McNaught-Davis, unkindly, as Fat Mac (apparently a helicopter had difficulty getting of the ground on the Isle of Skye), Mr Blackshaws appears to be more athletic. Apparently, there was shock and dismay from some younger (BMG) members of the UIAA who thought that they might be in the running for the lucrative, prestigous, position. Ellation turned to shock and horror though just one year into the new Presidents rein when it was anounced: ‘Alan Blackshaw resigned as President of the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) just one year (28 Oct 2005) after being unanimously elected.’ Apparently, the President threw his ‘dummy out of the cot’ following a vote not to accept his President’s Report for 2005.
Born in Liverpool in 1933 and educate at Merchant Taylor’s School and Crosby and Wadham College, Oxford. He apparently began hillwalking in 1948 and climbing in 1949, and has been to most climbing areas in Britain. He has climbed over fifty difficult alpine routes, including, the first British, guideless ascent of the North East face of the Piz Badile and the North face of the Aiguille Triolet. He apparently, went to the Caucasus with Lord Hunt in 1958 and also to North-East Greenland in 1960.
A keen climbing / mountaineering instructor, he worked at Glenmore Lodge in 1952. he was a mountaineering instructor in the Royal Marine Commandos during his ‘two years of National Service’ and continued mountaineeering and ski instruction in the Royal Marine Reserve he has been President of the British Mountaineering Council on several occasions also Vice-President of the Climbers’ Club. He has written articles for club journals and lectured and broadcasted about his expeditions.He has written at least two books: Mountaineering (who needs to wear safety head protection was one of the main themes) and Sking (covering ever aspect).
Mr Blackshaw, also worked as an Under-Secretary in the Department of Energy at its Offshore Supplies Office in Glasgow. living all of his life in Scotland, it is thought that his new status might dictate a more suitable, large, Swiss Chalet.  

Experience is “Key” – Tragedy in the Sierra Nevada (11 Oct 2004)

June 2nd, 2008 Posted in Accidents | No Comments »

A warning that these hills are not benign as it sometimes seems, especially in the spring, came on 5th/6th May when there were 3 deaths, 1 comotase victim and 6 injured in varying states of hypothermia. All in one incident!

The party were all from Holland and contained 10 women and 1 man, all led by a female dutch guide. They had booked a trekking holiday with a dutch company called "Intertrek", who had run tours to the Sierras for a few years. They set off from Trevelez, the highest village in Spain (1600 metres) at 10 am bound for the Poqueira Hut at 2500 metres via the Alta de Chorillo, a point on the south ridge of Mulhacen. They had been warned by the hotel owner in Trevelez that conditions were very poor with high winds, snow higher up and poor visibility. Moreover, the guardian of the Poqueira Hut, Raphael Quintero, a man who we have met on many occasions during this winters courses, also advised them to consider another easier, less exposed route, avoiding having to try to reach the hut. For some unknown and yet to be determined reason, the guide and the party set off.

After 2 hours ascent 2 of the women decided that the going was too hard and heeded the words of advice from the locals. They turned back and descended to Trevelez. They were smart! The rest continued upwards and arrived at the high ridge of Alta de Chorillo between 16.30 and 17.00. At this point they were met by the full fury of the south westerly gale. Winds of up to 130km per hour with driving snow pounded at them. The temperatures were well below freezing even without the windchill effect. The group met a party of well equipped Basque mountaineers at this point who had wisely given up their attempt on Mulhacen and decided to seek refuge in the Poqueira Hut.

By 19.00 the hut guardian, who was expecting the dutch party, became increasingly concerned. By 20.00 he called for assistance from the Guardia Civil Rescue Service. With over half a metre of new snow and the storm still raging the Basque party of 6 persons went out to search for the dutch. By 3 in the morning 2 of the dutch were found just below in Alta de Chorillo with advanced stages of hypothermia. They were both dead. The others were eventually found one by one. One was rescued only 50 metres from the hut, which she could not find! Others were strung out up to half a kilometre away. By 7 in the morning another body had been found near the door of the hut and the rest were all accounted for. They were given food and warmth and evacuated when the rescue helicopters could finally land at 1 in the afternoon of Thursday 6th May.

The dead and injured were taken to Capileira and hence to the emergency trauma unit in Granada.

Unbelievable, I know. None were equipped with winter clothing (one had only shorts and a lightweight fleece). Some had eye injuries as a result of neither having goggles nor sunglasses.

The repercussions are starting now. All the Andalucian papers are full of the inquest and the events of those terrible 2 days. The inquest will be held in Orgiva and the bodies cannot be returned to Holland until the inquest has been held. So far the guide concerned has not been questioned publicly. Whatever could she say? There’s really no excuse is there? A wrongly equipped party led by an inexperienced guide who had not been to the mountain area before………..an accident waiting to happen?

By Richard Hartley of Spanish Highs Mountain Guides, Sierra Nevada, Spain.

Guide’s (BMG/BMC) pushing up the cost of Insurance

June 2nd, 2008 Posted in Insurance | No Comments »
‘Making Claims’, is the heading of a small clipping: ‘With an estimated 700,000 (only one percent are members of the British Mountaineering Council) people in the UK participating in mountaineering and hill walking, law firms are predicting an increase in the number of personal injury claims associated with accidents in the outdoors.
      Nigel Yates, managing partner at Manchester law firm Horwich Ferrelly believes the trend for litigation (a supposed American desease) will increase following a recent case in which a professional mountain guide was found to have acted negligently following the death of – two (we have no further details – as yet) climbers (clients) in the French Alps.
       “A guide must decide on the safest course of action in light of all prevailing circumstances, such as the weather, deteriorating snow conditions, the ability of the client to complete the route, risks of rock fall and so on,”  says Mr Yates. “Should an accident occur, a guide must bear in mind that he may have to justify his actions in court.”
In response to this legal prediction, an increase in litigation, the British Mountaineering Council has a cunning plan. It has announce on the 20 September, 2005, its Expert Witness Register: “To help protect our freedoms in these increasingly litigious times, the BMC  is setting up a Register of Expert Witnesses.” Interestingly, the main litigation in recent years has been induced by members of the BMC loosing clients (BMG). ” The Latest News goes on: “This is to enable the BMC to collect data (from these expert BMC members) about the sort of cases that are coming to law (so it can advise on best practice and take action in the – interest of the community) those on the Register will be required to contribute to a Case Reporting System.” To this end, the BMC is starting ‘its own’ Expert Witness Courses’: Those wishing to register need to meet – stringent criteria and undergo, or have undergone Expert Witness Training (EWT). The first BMC Expert Witness training seminar will be held at Plas-y-Brenin in North Wales (of course) over the weekend of Saturday 29 and Sunday 30 October, 2005, and will cost each candidate 250 pounds sterling…” So there we have it, due to loosing too many court-cases members of the BMG /BMC are to be trained in legal matters, not stop the cause of accidents that may lead to litigation – but prepare to win at all costs regardles of the truth of the matter…

Risk Acknowledgement (17 May 2004)

June 2nd, 2008 Posted in Misc | No Comments »
On the 12 February, 2004 Lyndon Gill wrote in Rockfax – Bloody Scouts Need Rescuing: ‘ I agree that there has been a fair amount of cronyism in professional guiding and instructing. There is still some evidence around today especially relating to the criticism levelled at amateur groups by certain professionals.
As you point out the British Mountain Guides ’safety guarantees’ previous to 1997 was highly erronious. More so the fact the BMC published such advertisements. Misleading and dishonest in the highest degree. Cronyism at its worse.
What is needed is a dose of realism. Life is full of risks. We carry on just the same. Participants need, especially new participants, the opportunity to acknowledge the very real risks that exist in the mountains. If society realises they accept those risks and proceeded regardless it is far more understandable that if the impression is given than if they were led into the lions den.
Look at the low level qualifications there is no requirement for certified leaders to understand risk acknowledgement, its value or terminology…’
Mr Gill was advocating the value of risk acknowledgement and the requirement for person responsibiliy – from all participants… I agree with Mr Gill completely.
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