Bolts & Chipped Holds Everywhere (Oct 2007 – May, 09)

Monday, June 2nd, 2008

Regardless of the human rights of none BMC members; the vast majority of UK climbers who do not wish to see the environment damaged by drilling, the British Mountaineering Council is determined to continue to push for the deliberate damaging of British crags and mountain rock faces by its members – drilling and placing expansion bolts. The amount of money wasted on the above mentioned activity, could help to reduce by educating, the increasing deaths amongst climbers in the UK. In May, 2009, a further 1,300 BMC Bolts were made available for use in damaging the Welsh cliffs and crags. http://upload.pbase.com/images/122148350/original The BMC ‘harvesting’ expansion bolts.
In February, 2007, the British Mountaineering Council (BMC) flooded British climbing with 10,000 expansion bolts. The drilling (deliberate damage to unquarried cliffs and crags) and the placing of bolts, being sponsored by the – BMC. On the 2 January, 2009, a climber in Australia was killed when the expansion bolt that he pulled on – came out. In the ensuing fall, his rope was severed. There has been much ‘nashing of teeth’ amongst so-called Sports Climbers since this latest fatal accident who, rather than avoiding the use of bolts as a very dubious form of climbing protection, will now call for a ‘bolting qualification’… Bolting represents a future time-bomb-ticking in British climbing sponsored by the – British Mountaineering Council. http://www.safercliffs.org/code/photos.html An extra 1,300 BMC bolts were provided, for the specific purpose, of damaging Welsh mountain, cliffs and crags. Many bolts could be saved by  a ‘chipping holds’ program, this could be arranged through a BMC: How to chip holds properly & safely, program.
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BMC Name Change (17 Jul 2007)

Monday, June 2nd, 2008

Apparently, the so-called British Mountaineering Council (BMC) is to ‘change its name’. To what I wonder? Britain’s Mad Bolters? Or maybe – The Council of British Bolters? Regardless of what its name is changed to, it will not cover-up the damage that this organisation has done to British climbing…in the last fifty years.
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Internet References (24 Jan 2007)

Monday, June 2nd, 2008

2 May, 2010: UIAGM/IFMGA mountain guide Marco Da Pozzo was killed after falling from the church steeple in the chic ski resort of Cortina D’Ampezzo in the Dolomits of Northern Italy during a routine maintenance operation http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/europe/italy/7639306/Italian-mountaineer-dies-falling-off-church-steeple.html This fatality comes not long after the then, President of the UIAGM Claude Rey, fell off a hut ladder (some reports say into a crevasse – unroped) and was killed.
Wholesale advertising by the British Mountaineering Council along with the Sports Council’s able assistance – Sport for All – enticing young people into climbing – the quick way, is one of the main reasons for the increase in climbing participation and therefore, the increase in fatal climbing accidents – 2007 appears to be one of the worst Scottish winter mountaineering tragedies – in the making: ‘The question has just been asked on rockfax (23 January 2007) – do older climbers believe that there are more climbing accidents now?’ Yes there certainly are – due to the above mentioned points – too much enticement.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=373428   BMG clients deaths to be taken with: ‘a pinch of salt’ (liz Sept, 2009)
http://www.chamonix.net/english/news/2009-08-13.htm At least, 11 UIAGM guides have died since Nov, 2008, there is no information regading the fate of their clients.
http://groups.msn.com/SafetyInformationforMountainClients/internetreferences.msnw
http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/2813287.stm
http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/scotland/615529.stm
http://www.rafactive.co.uk/27alpine.html
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Broken Climbing Harness (9 Nov 2006)

Monday, June 2nd, 2008

Apparently, there is shock and horror (November 2006) over the fact that a climbing harness broke, plunging one of America’s finest climbers to his death. Climbing harnesses have broken before and climbers have ‘fallen-out-of’ their climbing ‘sit harnesses’ to their deaths. But it mattered not and climbers have continued to refuse to follow the harness manufacturer’s guidelines. After this latest fatality, climbers will continue to climb in a potentially dangerous manner. It matters not, that the sport has its own inherent dangers, as if that was not enough, dangerous practices still continue. Each evening thousands of young British, so-called climbers, attach themselves to the ‘belay loop’ on the front of their harness via a single karabiner (the loop that broke recently) whilst top-rope climbing and not, as per the manufacturers instructions (threaded through the harness properly). What has the representative but would be governing body of British climbing, the BMC, done about this suicidal practice over the years? Nothing…
An additional; a simple sling draped over head and shoulder then clipped into the harness  would have saved lives. In fact, less strain would have come onto the faulty, nylon loop, and it would not have broken. An additional ‘safety rope’ tied through the harness (as per the manufacturers instructions) would also have saved lives. It is not rocket science. And yet, Sport England still throw money at the BMC. The reception for the BMC, apparently at the Peak of its Profession, at No. 10 Downing Street on the 8 October, 2008, where the ‘great and good’ will be able to show-off their prowess, is set to coincide with the governing body bid for more cash even though, in 2007, the BMC squandered 10,s of 1,00′s of pounds when it bought and introduced 10,000 expansion bolts into the UK climbing scene. Not a single bolts will reduce the number of harness related deaths, or abseiling fatalities in fact, it will increase them.
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The Adventure Activities Licensing Authority (24 Oct 2006)

Monday, June 2nd, 2008

According to the Daily Mail dated the 19th October, 2006 (page 29) the government ‘Better Regulations Commission’ has ridiculed the Adventure Activities Licensing Authority (set-up in 1996). Set up as a knee-jerk reaction to the Lyme Bay canoeing disaster in 1993, the AALA (receives in excess of 1 million pounds sterling of taxpayers money per annum) since its conception it has apparently put some 600 outdoor pursuits organisations – out of business – one way or another. The AALA advertises that it is an ‘independent’ authority and yet, passes out licenses to fellow British Mountaineering Council (BMC) & Association of British Mountain Guides (BMG) – members…
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Adventure Activities Licensing Authority (18 Nov 2005)

Monday, June 2nd, 2008

Joseph Lister, a 14 year old school boy died in an avoidable caving accident (he was left behind by his instructor and teacher) on the 15th November, 2005, whilst under the assured guidance of Bewerly Park Centre for Outdoor Education in Harrogate, North Yorkshire, licensed as it is, by the Adventure Activities Licensing Authority (AALA). The AALA (another quango that receives £millions in government subsidies)  is supposed to: ‘Provide assurances to the public about the safety of activity providers…’ Bewerly Park is such a providor. Those assurances have been heard before and in fact, the existance of the AALA (which first saw the light of day in Cardiff, South Wales) assures – nothing. Interestingly, the AALA has links on its website with the Mountain Leadership Board and the British Mountaineering Council. Both organisations have advertised similar – ‘assurances’ in the past and still people, clients, have been misslead by those ‘ensurities’.
As an ‘unqualified’ cave leader I would not have taken those school children into that cave system at that time considering the recent heavy rain fall that has beset the whole of the UK recently… But then, I am not ‘qualified’ to comment. Like many other parents and reletives of adventure clients who have been killed in spite of – assurances, Joseph’s parents will have a lifetime in which to ponder just what, might have been had those £millions been more meaningfuly spend on education in outdoor safety rather than wasted on ‘safety quango,s’ such as the AALA..
Amy Ryder, one of Joseph’s class mates stated that the youngsters had to negotiate a ‘sump’ traversed by the only means possible – by submerging and going forward to emerge the other side of the water barrier. If so, it would have a highly dangerous manouver for such young children. Apparently, Joseph dissapeared; became seperated from the rest the during this manouver, traversing a sump full, filling with water. North Yorkshire Police and officials from the Health & Safety Executive have refused to comment, but will be examining the conduct of the ‘qualified’ instructor.
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The Mountaineering Council for Scotland (15 Sep 2005)

Monday, June 2nd, 2008

Apparently (Sept 2005), the so-called Mountaineering Council for Scotland wants all mountain-top ‘memorials’ removed (Their head office will be burnt down if they touch the Commando’s statue at Aracnacarry). This, from an organisation some of who’s members, have drilled and placed expansion bolts (thus causing deliberate damage) in Scottish crags, cliffs and high mountain rock faces against the wishes of the vast majority of British climbers

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Fatal Accident to British Soldier (2 Aug 2005)

Monday, June 2nd, 2008

Using conflicting reports, apparently a British soldier, on an adventure course, was killed when a serac (wall of ice) partially collapsed on the Mont Blanc du Tacul. Five other soldiers escaped serious injury. Military, alpine adventure courses have for some years now been led by a UIAGM / IFMGA guide. Interestingly, in this particular fatal incident, a guide has not been mentioned. This particular route on the Mont Blanc du Tacul has claimed many lives over the years through avalanches usually, because climbers, for some reason, are still on the face in the heat of the afternoon.
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Vixen Tor – Shock

Monday, June 2nd, 2008

28 February, 2005: Apparently, there is ‘shock and anger’ at the Ramblers Association over the descision of the Dartmoor Planing Inspectrate to keep an access ban at Vixtor Tor. Not the best-man-won no, shock and anger. Perhaps if the Association had not alighned itself with the British Mountaineering Council in this protest it might have done better; there might have been different outcome.
Talk about David and Goliath, a lone woman and her son against the machinations – freedom ro roam – regardless of who’s land we trample over. That these Association’s (with apparently nothing better to do) will continue (supported by tax-payers – wasting taxpayers money) to put pressure on this woman is a disgrace.
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2004 Year of Hard Knocks (27 Feb 2005)

Monday, June 2nd, 2008

French mountain guides had a particularly bad year in 2004. According to: http://www.pistehors.com/comments/375_0_1_0_C/ they lost 9 guides along with 6 mountain clients, apparently, twice the annual average. I will leave you to therefore, work out how many clients have been lost, on average, annually in the past… The above statistic of course, pales in the light of five guides and nine clients (aspirent guides) who were killed in a single avalanche in June, 1964, on the Aiguille Vert above Chamonix.
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