Plas-y-Brenin – ‘The Big Climb’ on May, 14 / 15

Tuesday, March 29th, 2011

Not to be missed in 2011 and a fun way to swell the centers coffers (this Splendid Enterprise)**, is to attend (£138 entrance fee) the celebration of climbing and a chance to meet “world class climbers” and – mountain guides. Everything, from bouldering to pro-bolting, top-roping and climbing up bits of rope an awesome event.
** Apparently, the centers annual government grant of £450,000 (£6,300,000 since 1997) is going to be cut due to government cut-backs. The £6m could have been more needfully spent elsewhere, helping children suffering from cancer comes to mind. http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=3596

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Here We Go “Again” – Bolts in Cornwall

Tuesday, March 15th, 2011

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=481945

When the Edwards first arrived at, Sennen, Lands End: they were written to in the late 70′s (no, they didn’t reply) and welcomed to West Penwith but that welcome was soon to change… It took some time before it was realised that already established providers of climbing courses at Lands End (Cornwall had a very high rate of unemployment) were in for some stiff competition /opposition from BMC advertising for the newly established Compass West. As if that was not bad enough, the bolting that started, just rubbed salt into the wound. When they started to rig, frig and bolt routes that had been; were being attempted over time; that could have been climbed in a similar style – but years earlier – beggared belief. Based at Sennen also, was one of the UK finest climbers / guide Mac McDermott (they do/did exist) who had climbed/instructed there since 1959 (I climbed with him in 1959 when he was instructing Royal Marines in Cliff Assault) suddenly abandoned Lands End and left the county in the late 70′s - I have often wondered why? I often wondered also what happened to him; how he got on after leaving the idyllic climbing situation that he had at Lands End prior to the bolting/chipping debacle.    

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=481945

BMC Southwest Meeting, Sunday, April, 2nd, 2011, at Redruth School at 19:00h: ’To “once again” discuss a proposal to place bolts and sanction sports climbing on the sea cliff (apparently it used to be the most dangerous quarry in the world where 123 miners were killed – so-the-story-goes) at Carn Vellan, West Penwith, Lands End, Cornwall’:  Apparently, the spectra of ‘chipping’ and bolts being inserted into Cornish sea cliffs has once again raised its ugly head. There is to be “another” meeting in deepest Cornwall where certain “climbers” want to drill and place expansion bolts – again (if you can’t climb – bolt!)  Apparently, the new word; the currant concern is “creep” (it used to mean something else) in that not being happy with “some” so-called sports-routes being established in controlled areas the disease of bolting would “spill-over” into traditional climbing areas – again. In reality, the pro-bolter’s will not be satisfied with “any control”. The Cheesewring Quarry, near Liskead, being a good example where traditional routes have been; are being over-bolted without permission of the first ascentionists. Those bolts, when “they” have finally finished will be chopped. Not content with creating their own routes in the quarry, bolter’s have interfered with already established tradition climbs, in the process, spoiling those climbs. Even bolting the traditional climbs and then having the audacity – to renaming them! This kind of “take-over” would occur right across Cornwall if these “climbers” were given half- a-chance. In the 1980′s at least – 158 expansion bolts were drilled; were placed into Cornish sea cliffs by two members of the BMC - against the wishes of the vast majority of British climbers. http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Articles/CornishBolts/index.shtml#Des

Creep: Like a cancer, pro-bolters would not be satisfied with certain designated area for “Sport’s Routes” there would be inevitable “creep” into other traditional climbing areas – from past experience: ‘They (David Musgrove BMC and others) just went a few routes too far retrobolting – established traditional routes’, The Great Yorkshire Bolt Debate, 13/10/2004.

So “they” just want a few small crags to play on with their bolts: ‘Where to next? Let the dust settle then go for broke – by the time that anyone realizes what’s going on it will be too late and everyone can have a good time (bolting the Lake District) and relax. The dinosaurs can have Scafell until they die out, then if anyone can still be bothered to walk(!) up there, I am sure a line or two of bolts wouldn’t go amiss.’  In the end I suppose you’ll get everything, which is what you wanted all along really but haven’t dared to say it. Though what you’ll actually get is nothing. No past, no future, no hope. Just thought you ought to know before you sell your soul; you can’t get it back. ‘Selling of Lakeland’s climbing soul for bolts (Bob Wightman, Aug, 1991)’, and twenty years on, the same bolters trying to sell off Cornwall’s climbing soul for – bolts (March, 2011). It’s called – creep.

Bolting Disease: So the creeping, abhorrent and not so insidious now, disease of bolting has once again raised it’s ugly head in Cornwall. Like AIDS it needs stamping out and it is time finally, for those who want to see it nipped in the bud, I believe a majority of climber, stood up to be counted. Once again, bolter’s feel that they have cart blanche to carry out their activities free from censure, wherever they like. They shall not bolt every line that at present, cannot be climbed traditionally if they do their bolts will be chopped. If it cannot be climbed any other way it should be left alone shouting defiance at those who would step-forward to try and climb it. What gives anyone the right to introduce, faced with such opposition, permanent hardware. There might be some excuse for bolting in already damaged, quarries but even there, many cases have emerged where already established traditional climbs have been over-bolted without permission from the first ascentionists.  It is called – creep.

There were sixty people present: During the evening of the 2nd April, 2011, at the Redruth School, the vast majority present: ‘It seems that those opposed to it (bolting in Cornwall) are a hard-core group of – cretinous old traditionalists (the group of giggling; sniggering people sat behind me must therefore have been the pro-bolters). “I can’t wait for them to pass on the torch to a more “pragmatic” group of climbers (pro-bolters) – good riddance in advance.” Stated one pro-bolter… 

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The First Bolt Goes Into The Dewerstone

Wednesday, February 23rd, 2011

The foot of the Dewerstone crag on the edge of Dartmoor near Plymouth is strewn with boulders of every size, boulders that have from time to time, fallen from above including the main face of Devil’s Rock. It is called: natural erosion. Apparently, on the 25 February, 2011 a piece of rock is being fixed; pinned to the face having been deemed ‘unsafe’ by some local climbing experts(s). The offending piece of rock could of course, have been pushed off, to join the other boulders below. Interestingly, loose rock was also mentioned recently at another crag, Ban-Y-Gor (which had already been bolted) in Gloucestershire where: climbers have been asked to ‘exercise caution’ when climbing there after rubble was bulldozed off the top of the crag. The same kind of ‘caution’ has been exercised for years (to my knowledge 52 years)when climbing past this particular Dewerstone problem, piece of rock. But any excuse, to get the first bolt – into the Dewerstone where there is supposedly a – no bolting policy – so much for policies… The next bolts will no doubt be placed, pinning the frail looking black holds on the right wall at the top of the long corner of the first pitch of Central Groove (just as well pop on a few hangers at the same time) frail looking holds that have stood the test of (climbing) time for more than half a century. Just twelve months ago the question was put forward regarding the possibility of bolting, with lower-offs, the top of the first pitch of Laviathon at the Dewerstone.  The, not so insidious face of BMC sponsored bolting in Uk climbing on the move in Southwest Devon. And already (20 March, 2011) someone has called, again, for a ‘lower-off’ to be installed at the top of the first pitch of Laviathon…

Apparently, all “loose” boulders at the top of the UK’s cliffs and crags (including the Dewerstone) are going to be “bolted down” just in-case they “creep” forward and fall on someones un helmeted head. There is of course, more likelyhood of one of Devon’s super- solo clombers (Fred Flintstone comes to minds) falling from the Dewerstone and landing on some unsuspecting walker below. Loads-a-work there then for some local enterprising member of the pro-bolt BMC…

Three years ago (2007) the BMC flooded the UK climbing scene with – 10,000 expansion bolts.

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The Super Couloir Bolted/Climbing Trashed.

Thursday, February 17th, 2011

Feb, 2011: Apparently, an Italian (UIAGM/IFMGA) guide has taken it upon himself to drill and place expansion bolts in the super couloir (Mont Blanc du Tacul) above Chamonix. Nothing new there then, as UIAGM guides have bolted already against the wishes of the vast majority of climbers, from Cerro Torre in Patagonia to the Highlands of Scotland: ’We love the mountains so much we work in them blah blah blah…’ In between, members of the UIAGM/IFGMA have covered the beautiful Matterhorn (down which I witnessed a climber fall the full length of the East face failed by the ‘safety junk’) in fix-ropes, metal stakes and expansion bolts placed by local UIAGM/IFMGA guides. Also ‘cabled’ by bolting, is the upper Gouter Ridge on Mont Blanc down which I witnessed three climbers fall, roped together, to their deaths – regardless of the  – ‘safety’ bolts and wire-cables. In reality, these bolts and cables are just magnet’s for those who should not be there in the first place and of course, to make the guides job sooo much easier and ”safer” but then consider the number of UIAGM/IFMGA guides who have been killed in the last two years (2009-2011) – to say nothing of what became of their clients (a subject about which, there is another cone of silence)…

Climbing / Mountaineering Trashed: In the 1950′s in Europe, the arguments about the drilling of perfect granite/limestone rock started in earnest, expansion bolts were being carried and placed, the pristine rock being drilled and expansion bolts inserted. With enough bolts, time and effort, a climber could climb – any where regardless of his actual climbing ability. Walter Bonatti had always deplored bolting preferring to give the mountain/rock-face a chance in this adventurous sport. He preferred to keep artificial aids to a minimum any pitons that he placed would be removed by the last climber. Even when making his brilliant solo ascents he had to down-climb and remove the pitons he had used to safeguard himself. He was in a way a perfectionist who denounced any compromise demanding the same standard of ethics from others. Other’s who followed his climbs – trashed them along the way leaving permanent pitons (at one time there were 200 pitons in Bonattis’ route of the Grand Capucine) and even bolts now where Bonatti on the first ascent, had used minimum pitons and – no bolts.

Three years after he wrote: ‘Climbing, mountaineering was a shining light on the scale of human value’s', he stopped extreme climbing for good. His swan-song, was the first ascent of the “direct”, on the North face of the Matterhorn, solo and in winter.

Sir Chris Bonington wrote of Bonatti: ‘Inevitably anyone who takes adventure to such extremes (Bonington & Ian Clough made the first British ascent of the North face of Eiger in 1962 – Bonatti on-the-other-hand attempted a solo ascent of the same climb), who knows no compromise, becomes a target for criticism’, (page 343, Quest for Adventure, Hodder & Stoughton, 1982). Bonington continues: ‘He still climbs, but with a small group of close friends (Bonatti resigned from the UIAGM/IFMGA guides who did not support him over the first ascent of K2, lying episode). In many ways he is a sad and lonely man. The problem with chasing extreme in risk and physical adventure is that the solace it gives is ephemeral.’ Sad, Bonatti certainly was at the demise of the sport of climbing, he wrote in 2000: ‘Is mountaineering today sick and polluted? Certainly. Is there hypocrisy in the world of the mountains? Undoubtedly.’  The main-stream climbs in Europe today (2011) in the main, trashed with the expansion-bolts that he distained.

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I Do Like A Good Laugh – Don’t You?

Wednesday, February 9th, 2011

Tim Howard sent me an-unsolicited e-mail (‘What sort of fucking idiot are you?’) on the 29 February, 2004: ‘I am pleased to hear that you will be returning to the UK in May. Presumably from outer space. The BMA (British Medical Association) ‘controls’ the NHS – which planet have you been living on? The laughter, I fear, grows louder.’ In January, 2011 it was announced that the head of the BMA, Dr Hamish Meldrum, is now also part of a con-sortium that has won a £4million contract to run one of the governments new polyclinics (NHS), A further 140 Pathfinder Consortium (running NHS contracts) have been taken over by members of the – BMA – British Medical Association. Tim Howards wants to try looking further ahead than the tip of his rosey nose before making anymore – f******* observations. Yes, the laughter does grow louder… and the NHS – is in deep trouble. http://www.nhsonline.net/news/article.asp?CategoryId=2&ArticleId=1105

Private Eye, issue 1280: ‘As a GP, a member of the BMA, I am aften asked, “Doctor would you like to run the NHS?” The short answer is “No its incredibly difficult and I am not qualified for the job.” The long answer is “OK I might, particularly if you – make it worth my while.” Mr Hamish Meldrum (BMA) mentioned above, was already on approximately £150,000 per annum plus expences.

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A Bonfire of Quangos

Sunday, January 30th, 2011

Rumour has it that the country is in a financial mess to be sorted out in part, by DEFRA with whom, the so-called British Mountaineering Council apparently, has “many dealings” along with lucrative “dealings” with that other (saved) quango the – Sports Council. The reduction in “arm’s length bodies” (quangos) will not effect the £450,000 annually payment (has as been paid out for the last 14 years =£6m to date with which to compete on the open market that is outdoor pursuits) to swell BMC er sorry, Plas yBrenin coffers… http://www.thebmc.co.uk/News.aspx?id=3969 So much for: transparency and accountability - as was seen during the well-attended bash at 10 Downing Street laid on by the Labour Party for the BMC’s top climbers and the great and good. Private Eye, July, 2011: ‘Vince cable, MP intends to put the AALA  on the coalitions – bonfire of the quangos.’ After yet another spate of fatal accidents in 2009, to young people  (supposedly protected by the Young Persons Safety Act 1995).

http://www.private-eye.co.uk/section.php?section_link=in_the-back&

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We Recommend:

Friday, January 21st, 2011

Dan Mazur: http://summitclimb.com has sent some very interesting mountain projects.

Field Tour Alpine’s Spanik Karakoram Trip in 2011 http://fieldtouringalpine.com who sent me an email; a breakdown of the expedition and it looks good.

French Alpine Club Insurance – fees include helicopter rescue etc http://www.ffcam.fr

Trailfinders http://www.trailfinders.com offer excellent prices on airfares to East Africa and Tanzania.

Austrian Alpine Club Insurance – fees include helicopter rescue http://www.aacuk.org.uk

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so-called British Mountaineering Council – Insurance Up…

Wednesday, January 19th, 2011

Con-cerned that ‘rival insurers’ might cry Foul, the BMC won’t subsidise insurance price rises for its members. Really, there was a time when the BMC couldn’t care less who it put out of business grabbing as it did for example, reduced coach fares to the continent  (recently dropped) after someone else did all the ground-work with Eurolines. Highly recommended are the French and Austrian Alpine Club insurances. http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=442426 The widow of a deceased climber waited seven years to be compensated for her loss, her husband was insured through the – BMC.

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Jeff Lowe’s Metanoia

Sunday, December 26th, 2010

http://jefflowemovie.com  Jeff Lowe was probably ‘the’ climber who brought ice climbing of age with his winter solo ascent of a new route (Metanoia) on the North face of the Eiger in 1991. The route has not as yet been repeated. Equipment that Jeff had left behind during his Eiger solo was finally returned; rescued to him in 2011 by two climbers.

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Shock & Horror

Sunday, December 12th, 2010

There was shock and horror today (12/12/10) when it was learnt that some climbers – cheat! http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=436004 Apparently, Sports Climbers have been abseiling down rock faces placing protection (expansion bolts & extenders) along the way before climbing the same line and claiming an ascent. Others apparently, have been claiming ascents of climbs that they in fact, have not climbed on the other hand, some are disavowing any knowledge of routes that they have already claimed. Others are practicing certain moves over many days before actually claiming an ascent – even a first ascent! Some solo climbers climb so quickly – Brandler-Hasse in 1h:37m – that they meet themselves on the way down…  But its not cheating really? Really!   http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=438167 “Drugs in climbing (and finally the truth is out) it isn’t really cheating – because everyone can take them if they want.” That makes it all right then.? But does it? Members of the International Olympic Committee were visually shocked considering as they were, the introduction of indoor climbing into the Olympic fold where there is more than enough trouble with – drug takers already!

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