Monday, July 12th, 2010
On the ‘Question-mark’ thread where avoidable damage to Cornish cliffs and crags has – once again been highlighted in 2010: to be libeled by bolt-loving Jon: ‘Now he is completely barking’, (ukclimbing.com 12 July, 2010 at 14:26h) and again on Wed 29 Sept at 17:04: “Just a good job he didn’t form a club called ‘Club Brain Surgery’ to get around not being a doctor (there were in excess of 40,000 fatal mistakes made by doctors, along with 268.000 medical mistakes professionals, in the UK in 1999 but compensation did not take – 7 years as in one UIAGM fatality: we have a comprehensive insurance scam, sorry, scheme) (or I could have called it The Survival Club (UIAGM)** and then ‘loose’ three members, clients on the West Flank of the Eiger - in 1992) on a thread that I offered no opinion of my own; a thread that has attracted over 60,000 visits from other climbers and maybe, past, present and potential mountain clients for merely trying to stop further deaths and injury to the clients of members of the UIAGM/BMG by - bolt-loving ‘Jon’ Jon de Montjoye (UIAGM) takes the cake (he seems to be very familier with the subject – probably an expert on being – certified. In 1997, advertising by the UIAGM/BMG was withdrawn from a specialist magazine; High magazine by the Trading Standards Authority after a widow finally won her court case – seven years after the avoidable death of her husband in – another avoidable guided, climbing accident. At the time of her husbands death, the UIAGM/BMG advertising was offering: ‘Adventure with Security, why chance everything, on anything less. Our Logo is your “guarantee”… We have a comprehensive insurance scheme’, - try claiming on it. After compensation was finally awarded (1990-1997) an Appeal was actually considered. Quote on currant ukclimbing Forum – Afghan Guides: ‘By comparison, a guide (UIAGM) in the French Alps has to train for several years before being – certified.’ For some, Certified being the operative word.
In a 2001 Review of the Climbers Club, West Cornwall guidebook, a reviewer wrote and the Climbers Club printed: ‘Without wishing to rekindle the controversy (Cornish) I think the politics of the Edwards saga should have been toned down even more and that the – fine and extensive contribution made by Roland and Mark should stand without slur’ Finite rock, future climbers? Who needs in excess of 500 new routes (many of the them damaged) under their belt?
**In 1992 The (BMG) ‘Survival Club’ took sixteen clients to climb the Eiger’s Mittellegi ridge and descend the West Flank (three days later – on a one day route) three clients did not return home. One of the ‘unqualified guides’ working for the Club lost his three clients on the descent of the West Flank of the Eiger. On the one hand it is supposedly – illegal to guide for gain if not UIAGM in Switzerland, on the other hand – it is not illegal to work for gain in Switzerland! Apparently, It just depends who you are working for. On the 13 April, 2009: French mountain rescue was called to the Le Dauphine glacier where a 39 year old UIAGM/IFMGA mountain guide who had found a spot to start a beginners course in “crevasse rescue” when the accident happened. Taking off his skis, and starting to dig a hole when the snow bridge on which he was standing, into which he was digging, collapsed. He was killed in the 20m fall into the crevasse. It is not known who looked after the two horrified mountain clients after their guide disappeared.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=424956
http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/journal/original/2001%20Journal-p123-144.pdf Page 139.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=416516
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=419492
I will call him Andy due to the typical action shown by the likes of Montjoye. Andy e-mailed me on the 12 Oct, 2009 and states: “Hi Dennis, absolutely amazing site, well researched and gives answers and food for thought on so many mountaineering related topics. I served as an ML1 in the Royal Marines Mountain and Arctic Warfare cadre now retired but made a living as an independent guide, mostly taking clients to Nepal and South America. I would often go to Plas y Brenin (That Splendid Enterprise) to refresh first aid etc., etc, the reception I got (when they knew I took folks away without their approval – lol) was sometimes very, very annoying. Life is strange hey mate? I guided and instructed for over 40 years and never lost a client or called out Mountain Rescue. Keep up the site. I genuinely know where you are coming from - it all wants saying’. Certainly, there is a Question-mark hanging over certain UIAGM activities including involvement in the above (another) bolting controversy at Lands End.
29 May, 2009: UIAGM female guide and two clients fall into a crevasse above Chamonix, guide and one clients killed in the fall, the other mountain client died in hospital. February, 2011, relatives of deceased client start criminal court proceedings.
You do not have to be a – brain surgeon to teach some-one to climb – safely. And you do not need to be a – scientist to keep clients alive.
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