Whilst Feathering its Own Nest with Government Handouts…

Friday, May 28th, 2010

Not for the first time, the so-called British Mountaineering Council (BMC) has interfered with others offering services to climbers. In 2001, the BMC threatened to sue Rockfax: http://rockfax.com/alanjames/2007/11/08/relections-on-the-guidbook-debate-of-2001 being a typical example. Rockfax of course, does not received government subsidies (as does the BMC) to waste on threatening others… Or, BMC Loans.?

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A Triumph for Common Sense?!

Thursday, May 20th, 2010

‘A Triumph for Common Sense’ was the heading of an article by Stephen Venables in Mountain Notes, High Magazine, March, 1996: ‘Three times in my life I have broken bones. On each occasion the accident was caused by an anchor falling (failing). Two of these anchors were placed by me – one when I was very young, climbing my first HVS rock climb, and the other much more recently when I should have known better, the memory of both still makes me cringe with embarrassment. The third was placed by friends on Panch Chuli V and when it failed I very nearly died. It certainly never occurred to me to blame my companions for the accident, because as far as I was concerned, we were all sharing the responsibility for that difficult abseil descent, well aware that climbing is not a totally predictable, scientific discipline. On a remote Himalayan peak – and to some extent in the comparatively controlled environment of a British outcrop – we venture into an intrinsically dangerous situation where human error or just sheer bad luck can have disastrous consequences. We are responsible for ourselves and if something goes wrong there is no one else to blame.

I always assumed that most climbers concurred with these sentiments, until the ’80s. It was then that the legendary, inventive American gear manufacturer, Yvon Chouinard announced he was quitting his hardwear business because of the increase threat of litigation and it was in 1989 that I met the parents of the American woman who sued a famous boot manufacturer because she got frostbite on top of Mt McKinley. At the time I was too polite (or cowardly) to say anything, and I still regret not expressing my contempt for the kind of mentality which assumes that someone else can always be blamed – and forced to pay huge sums – for one’s own misfortunes.

The bad news is that that mentality has now crossed the Atlantic and **tried to worm its way into the British climbing community. The good news is that a recent judge in the High Court seems to have nipped it very firmly in the bud. Just before Christmas (1995), Judge Diana Cotton QC dismissed all claims of negligence against the well-known British Mountain Guide ‘Cubby’ Cuthbertson who was being sued by his student (client), Peter Pope.

For those who are not familiar with the Association of British Mountain Guides, it should be pointed out that they set themselves scrupulous standards, as high, and some would say higher, than any of their European colleagues in the Alpine countries. Few pass first time through the stringent series of tests in rock climbing, Scottish winter climbing and skiing, not to mention First Aid, navigation, cliff rescue and, most important of all, the wholesale business of caring for the safety of a client. Their sheer professionalism was brought home to me a few years ago when I was involved in a television event on Ben Nevis. Everything was set up in advance by the guides. Knots I’d never heard of were second nature to them and they moved about the hill with the kind of unerring competence you just don’t achieve through occasional weekend visits. Avalanche conditions were assessed and re-assessed, there were safety ropes wherever you looked and the belays could have held the QEII.

It so happened that one of the guides employed by the BBC that day was Cubby Cuthbertson. The impression I got, confirmed by what I have read and heard from others who know him much better, is a rather quiet, modest, extremely competent mountaineer, who at that stage was pushing his own climbing to the limit, on rock, on ice and on the competition circuit, but who could put all that ambition to one side while he was guiding, concentrating 100% on the welfare of his clients.

It was not long after that that he took Peter Pope rock climbing. Pope seems to have enjoyed his introduction to the sport, hiring Cuthbertson for a second and then a third rock climbing trip. It was on the third day of the third trip that Cuthbertson finally allowed his student (client) to have a go at leading. Pope had seconded routes up to HVS standard and, with Cuthbertson first checking out all the gear placements he (Pope) now successfully led a V Diff, followed by a severe, also checked in advanced. Then Cuthbertson let Pope have a little more rein and select his own gear to lead another V Diff. This time Pope fell, ripped out all his runners (protection)  and hit the ground, suffering wrist and spinal injuries. In hospital he set about suing his guide for negligence and, at the end of last year, the case finally came to court.

There was considerable pressure on Cuthbertson to settle out of court. If he had lost the case, Sun Alliance, insurers to the Association of British Mountain Guides, could have been forced to cough up anything up to £3/4million. Rocket ting insurance premiums thereafter could have threatened the whole future of guiding (and indeed, all outdoor instruction) and Cuthbertson’s own career would have been irrevocably damaged. One can see the temptation to settle for a discreet compromise, avoiding all the humiliation, embarrassment and risk of appearing in the High Court… To be continued

** ‘American litigation tried to worm its way into British climbing and failed.’ Really!  At the same time as the Pope v Cuthbertson (Cubby) court-case there was already another (since 1990) accident going to court; in the offering Hedley v Cuthbertson (Smiler) after Gerry Hedley, client of the Association of British Mountain Guides died when he was pulled from the North face of the Tour Ronde in 1990 when his guide fell whilst leading. His widow, waited seven years until 1997 before finally being compensated for her loss bringing up as she had, the baby; the son who Gerry Hedley never saw.  After finally winning her court-case, an Appeal against her was actually considered. At the time of Peter Popes avoidable accident; at the time of both accidents (and there were more) the Association of British Mountain Guides was advertising that: ‘Their training and International Qualification is your – safe guarantee. Why chance everything on anything less?’Gerry Hedley would have tried his best to hold his falling guide – until his single, ice-screw belay failed – and his widow was made to wait – seven years! Gerry Hedley should have been left, tied to at least, two ice-screws and two, well placed ice axes above him, they also, should have been tied into his belay.

Postscript: Fraser C. Grant, Advertising Standards Authority wrote to me 0n the 27 August, 1997 ( seven years since Gerry Hedley died on a BMG lead alpine climb in 1990): ‘We have considered your complaint (Mr Hedley’s widow waited – seven years before she was finally compensated for her loss) and taken the matter up with the advertisers (BMG). We have, recommended that they do not make any absolute claims in their advertising regarding the safety offered by BMG registered mountain guides. If however, the advertisers are reluctant to co-operate with our wishes we may take further action.’  In December, 1995, the client Mr P. Pope lost his court-case against another BMG guide. Another – triumph for common sense.? Another triumph for an insurance company; another triumph for share-holders.

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Italian mountain guide dies falling off church steeple

Monday, May 3rd, 2010

28 April, 2010: Marco Da Pozzo, UIAGM/IFMGA  guide was killed after falling from the church steeple in the chic ski resort of Cortina D’Ampezzo in the Dolomite’s during a routine maintenance operation – changing light-bulbs.

In April also, was the tragic 20 metre fall that killed UIAGM / IFMGA guide Thierry Lokteff on the 13th April, 2010, who whilst showing two clients crevasse rescue had the snow-bridge into which he was apparently, digging – collapse. The clients, survived. http://www.chamonix.net/english/news/2009-04-13.html

Finally, the President of the UIAGM/IFMGA, also died in 2010 when crossing a “wet glacier” un roped, he fell into a deep crevasse.

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BMC Bolts do not grow on trees – after all.

Monday, February 22nd, 2010

Its official, BMC bolts do not ‘grow on trees’: http://upload.pbase.com/images/122148350/original

http://www.pataclimb.com/knowledge/articles/CTbolts.html The Rape of a Mountain (Cerro Torre) by  a UIAGM/IFMGA mountain guide with the use of a petrol driven compresssor to place in excess of 300 expansion bolts – controversy. The lies and the cunning…

http://www.thebmc.co.uk/Feature.aspx?id=1928

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=434550

During the ‘planting’ of a myriad of expansion bolts into important Prehistoric Sediment in the floor of Horseshoe Quarry ‘particular care had been taken not to damage the interesting – coral-bed-fossil features.’?  As one wag put it: ‘BMC bolts do not grow on trees’, how true. If you cannot climb? Bolt! And don’t forget to practice your – chipping – another great climbing aid. Members of the BMC, damaging cliffs and crags for – real climbers. For 2011 (in 2007, the BMC flooded the UK climbing scene with 10,000 free, expansion bolts) the BMC has offered £20,000 of bolts in a bidding war. The’ winning project’ will no doubt have to prove just who can cause the biggest amount of deliberate damage to un quarried rock across the UK. The BMC, no doubt funding the West Penwith, Carn Vellan fiasco with new; replacement bolts as and when required.

http://www.cumbriaboltfund.com/CUMBRIA_BOLT_FUND/Photos.html(to put them in or take um out?)shows quite well the mess that BMC bolts are creating across the UK. Myriads of young men; potential climbers who actually believe that ‘falling off with impunity’ onto expansion bolts is – climbing… All thanks to the totally discredited; so called, British Mountaineering Council. Since the 1980′s members of the BMC have been bolting cliffs and crags from Lands End to the Highlands of Scotland (against the wishes of the vast majority of British climbers): Simon Tong, Climber magazine, 1993: ‘When I visited Cornwall on November 28, 1992, Carn Vellan, the natural slate cliff on the Penwith north coast, had 35 bolts. To my knowledge bolt holes and bolts have now been drilled on the killas/greenstone cliffs of Gunards head and Carn Vellas and on the granite of Sennen, Lands End, Pordinack, Porth Lee, Chair Ladder and Cribba Head. This has taken place against the wishes of the majority of climbers, without discussion, reasoned debate or consideration of any opposing point of view. The identity and soul of these splendid sea cliffs has been changed irrevocably. I find it incredible that Jim Perrin chose not to address these issues in his recent profile of two of the area’s leading activists – Roland and Mark Edwards. Climbing ability, green consciousness, or being “jolly nice guys” cannot justify their actions. Jim Perrin’s article will not cloud the fact – bolts are now (the majority since removed) widespread on West Cornwall cliffs. Local climbers have tried to represent the views of the majority of climbers nationally, and have been met with accusations of spitefulness and abuse. It is now clear that if  ‘real climbing’ in West Cornwall is to survive action by other climbers will have to be taken. Without action the future of climbing in Cornwall (in the UK) is all too clear.’ Don’t forget, placing bolts and chipping climbs needs real cunning which comes with practice. Apparently, some members of the BMC/BMG are very good at it, have been for years: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=416516

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=424956 Mountain guides have festooned some of the finest mountains of the world when it has suited; when it suits their purpose – of making it easier for them to work… It is to be hoped that any fatal accident at this spot in the future on Ben Nevis will lead to another UIAGM/IFMGA mountain guide in court.

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Grave Concern

Friday, November 21st, 2008

Grave Concern:Apparently, it is absolute chaos out there ( a bit of extra snow this winter 2010): with a climber dying per day in Scotland this winter: http://www.outdoorsmagic.com/news/articles/mps/uan/5895     UIAGM/IFMGA guides not only believe that only they, are allowed  to “guide for gain”; that only they, are allowed to loose clients for gain: http://outdoors.caladonianmercury.com/2010/03/01/avalanche-victims-were-with-mountain-guide-company/0034  (Jagged Globe client, Robert Pritchard killed in Glencoe avalanche on the 24 Feb, 2010 along with winter mountaineering instructor) Not only did Graham and Jennie Davies (their son Phillip died 16 days after the 1992 BMG Eiger debacle) not receive back, Phillips course fees, they were also upset that all their sons climbing equipment - went missing. Independent mountain guides have worked for decades in Europe, for gain i.e. for money along side, working for their ‘UIAGM – friends’ certainly in the 1992 Eiger debacle when three BMG clients were killed, three clients (out of eight clients) who were being lead by – two Independent guides working for their UIAGM/IFMGA – overall leader. Now on one hand, this is illegal on main-land Europe then on the other hand, is not.? As Jennie Davies wrote to me twice: ‘Dennis, will we ever have peace in our hearts?’ There was no – concern for Graham and Jennie then andcertainly, no concern - now. In 1998, Phillips rucksack was found by climbers on the West Flank of the Eiger where it had lain; been left, seven years before. Graham and Jennie did not received back; were not re-payed their son’s course fees.

 alun – alun@alunrichardson.co.uk(UIAGM/IFMGA): was soo concerned that I had got my facts wrong, that he e-mailed me on Sept 30th, 2009: ‘Well your a man on a mission ( as is Mr Graham Davies who’s son Phillip died avoidably in 1992 – mentioned above; as are numerous parents of deceased children, clients of the BMG / UIAGM / IFMGA) shame ‘all’ of your facts are wrong and your assumptions mistaken. I have never read such drivel, if you want to discuss the ‘facts’ give someone a ring instead of ‘making it all up’. Claude ray (there, I even spelt Claude Rey’s name wrong) fell off a ladder outside a hut, the Swiss military soldiers were not guide by UIAGM guides (who have already received SFr 75,000 and SFr 90,000 respectively no doubt for hurt feelings) but military ones…too name a few of your mistakes.” So there you have it, the Swiss UIAGM/IFMGA President and mountain guide and safety specialist - fell off a ladder near a hut and not into a crevasse unroped dying from his injuries. And according to alan, Swiss military mountain guides do not have to be – UIAGM/IFMGA  http://pistehors.com/news/ski/comments/0746-president-of-the-uiagm-killed-by-crevasse-fallNow I have tried putting: president-of-the-uiagm-killed-by-fall-off-ladder, into google.com and – nothing comes up? On the 24 August, 2009, a UIAGM/IFMGA qualified guide (French) fell and was killed on the Italian side of the Matterhorn, the fall was held by the client who then called for rescue. Who actually looks after UIAGM clients when their guide gets it wrong? Just how many mountain clients have saved the neck, of their illustrious leaders?

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/europe/italy/7639306/Italian-mountaineer-dies-falling-off-church-steeple.html

Concerned also: ‘Keep up the site’, On Monday 12 Oct, 2009: Unnamed by me because of the past, dangerous antics of members of the UIAGM / IFMGA towards their competition, an e-mail arrived: ‘Dennis, an absolutely amazing site, well researched and gives answers and food for thought on so many mountaineering related topics. I served as an ML1 in the Royal Marines Mountain and Arctic Cadre. Now retired but made a living as an independent guide, mostly taking UK clients to Nepal and South America. I would often go to Plas y Brenin to refresh first aid etc., etc, the reception I got (when they knew I took folks away without their (UIAGM) approval (lol) was sometimes very very annoying. I guided for over 40 years and never lost a client, or called out Mountain rescue – keep up the site. I genuinely know where you are coming from, ‘it all wants saying’…’ That unnamed independent guide, has not, subsequently asked me to remove his unsolicited e-mail from this site.

The following letter (I have not cleared this with alun yet, but I distinctly remember the magazine article, because I have a copy) was published in Climber & Rambler magazine in 1988 by Mr S. Mitchell: ”The Association of British Mountain Guides (BMG) has asked me to write to warn your readers about people posing as mountain guides. We are  – very concerned – that any member of the public is subjected to an inferior and probably dangerous service by someone who may call himself a mountain guide. To operate with an unqualified guide… may easily result in the loss of hard-earned holiday money.” To my knowledge (up to 2009) only one climber posing as a mountain guide (he was working for a UIAGM / IFMGA guide in Switzerland at the time – 1992) has lost not only his clients hard-earned money, but his three clients also lost their lives. But, an unacceptable number of UIAGM / IFMGA clients have also lost not only hard-earned holiday money, but also their hard-earned lives since that letter was published in 1988. Now you can see where this is going. According to Alun (UIAGM/IFMGA) the six Swiss soldiers who died on the Jungfrau in 2007 were in fact being lead by - bogus mountain guides!?

Court Dates Announced for 2007 UIAGM Guiding Accident: http://www.swissinfo.ch/eng/swiss_news/Court_dates_annonced_for_army_accidents.html?siteSect=204&sid=11196476sty=nd

Just received (4 Sept 09) an e-mail from UIAGM/IFMGA Murray Hamilton: “Nice site. Yes accidents happen in the mountains, that is true. Do you have a solution? I do, but it is only to stay at home. I am open to other answers though. It could help us all. Kind Regards, Murray Hamilton.” In 2010, UIAGM mountain guides were still - leading clients – the main man still determined not, to wear protective gear – for starters – on the rubble strewn Gouter Ridge where at least one UIAGM guide died (2010) god knows what happened to his clients. Solutions and answers – have been done to death.

 http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=487230 BMC only got it 180 degrees wrong in 2012…

There is also grave concern amongst ‘qualified mountain guides’ in Europe after it was revealed that at least 11 of their members (UIAGM / IFMGA) have been killed in climbing / mountaineering accidents since November, 2008. The Chamonix website of course makes very little mention as to the fate of the UIAGM / IFMGA clients involved in those accidents… Comment by Dennis Morrod, 15:00h, August 30, 2009. He returned from Chamonix on the 28 August, after observing current mountain safety techniques being employed by the local qualified guides - clients being allowed to abseiling off the end of rappel ropes and poor belaying (to loose blocks) seeming to be the preferred method of hastening death when climbing in the French Alps in 2009. http://www.chamonix.net/english/news/2009-08-13.htm

On the 24 August, 2009 a UIAGM/IFMGA mountain guide was killed in a fall on the Italian side of the Matterhorn his French clients was left holding the body (having arrested the fall). Who looks after the client – stuck alone at 4,200 meters? There is grave concern…

One Day On Everest was a gathering of climbers in America, mountain guides etc, the outcome of which, was the raising of funds for the deceased guide, Scott Ficshers family. Scott Ficsher along with several clients, lost his life on Everest in 1996. This noble act, the American gathering, was overshadowed by just one fact. Nobody has ever raised money for the, just as unfortunate families, of deceased – mount clients. The clients of mountain guides also have – families, many of them also have dependent children.

Eric Ellis, International Journalist, 8th April, 2009: http://www.spectator.co.uk/business/the-magazine/connoisseur/3524271/everest-a-risky-business.thtml

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Chance, Risk and Accidents in 2010

Sunday, June 29th, 2008

What a mess; what a can-of-worms, traditional climbers must be feeling pretty sick about the whole debacle of the pro-bolting scene now being sponsored by the British Mountaineering Council: http://www.safercliffs.org/code/photos.html

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news,7175241/British-woman-killed-in-Pyrenees-avalanche.html   along with her Spanish companion (February, 2010)  they were climbing in a party; group organised by the Spanish Mountain Sports Federation. Just three weeks later and a client along with a Jagged Globe winter mountaineering instructor, were killed in a Glencoe avalanche on the 25 February, 2010: http://outdoors.caladonianmercury.com/2010/03/01/avalanche-victims-were-with-mountain-guide-company/0034

Apparently, there is some controversy regarding the ‘reporting of climbing accidents’ and who should be ‘responsible’ for collating the material. Interestingly, the BMC who publish by far, the most pictures of young people climbing; being introduced to climbing whilst not wearing protective gear has become involved. The forum is accompanied by an interesting picture of a climber sitting at the bottom of, and close to, a crag. The ground around him is littered with various sized rocks that have fallen from above, his safety helmet, tucked away somewhere – safe. http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1099 brings a whole new meaning to – Chance, Risk and Accidents – still waiting to happen.

On January 8th, 2009, Argentine mountain guide Federico Campanini and one of his clients died on Aconcagua in a sudden storm. Whilst off route, the client apparently fell into a crevasse.

The BMC still advocating the use of the ‘overhand’ knot (British Death Knot) whilst abseiling: ‘The overhand knot is less prone to jamming when being retrieved, when in fact, it will jam in small cracks too small for the bulkier ‘double-fishermans’ to enter. Apparently, that there are cases of the ‘overhand’ knot unravelling when the ‘double-fishermans cannot, is of no consequence when it comes to – Chance, Risk and Accidents… http://www.thebmc.co.uk/Feature.aspx?id=1736

17 June, 2008: Patrick Monzat (58), Chamonix Independent guide and ex PHGM was killed in the Gouter Couloir when he and his two mountain clients were avalanched. Fortunately, the two clients survived.

20 June, 2008: two missing climbers have been found dead after falling in the Ecrins.

23 June, 2008: A British climber fell and was killed on the Pic Coolidge in the Ecrins.

Liam Costello fell and was killed whilst climbing on Snowden in October, 2007, and a High Court Judge has pronounced that the accident was ‘bad luck’.? http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/wales/north_west/7498803.stm Liam, just 11 years of age, would still be alive today if he had been ‘short-roped’ to one of the adults climbing / scrambling with him.

11 killed on K2: http://www.csmonitor.com/2008/0806/p06s01-wosc.html?page=1 after an avalanche, has apparently been confirmed in the early days of August, 2008. Eleven, climbers, mountain guides and their clients were swept away when a wall of ice collapsed. As many climbers no longer climb ‘roped together’ in high mountains, some were apparently trapped after the avalanche as ‘fixed ropes’ were destroyed; torn away. In 1964, 14 climbers; five mountain guides and nine aspirant (mountain clients)guides were killed; slab avalanched down the Cordier Couloir on the Aiguille Vert above Chamonix in the French Alps.

Climbing Leeches: Whilst yes, leeches are very good climbers, the kind being referred to in a BMC Summit article are the kind of climbers who seek litigation after an accident at indoor climbing walls. That the vast majority of indoor climbers are allowed to tie incorrectly into their climbing harnesses in reality shows not only a scant disregard for safety at indoor walls but also climbing wall owners are leaving themselves wide open to – litigation.

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Quotations:

Friday, June 20th, 2008

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=490658 Monaco, 10:37 Thursday, 26 January, 2012: ‘In this sense, they should at least thank him.’ Apparently, the two climbers who recently (January, 2012) removed many of the bolts offending Cerro Torre for the last 40 years, should thank the Italian climber who failed to climb the mountain – twice even though on his second attempt, he place in excess of 300 expansion-bolts, the original: Rape of a Mountain. What climbing has become: the need to thank a climber who not only claimed the first ascent of Cerro Torre in 1959 but failed in a second attempt, during a mountain debacle.

‘The effect of this work (a massive public interest in climbing/mountaineering has been stimulated by certain well-managed professionals with the help of TV and other mass media) has put some of our mountain areas under intolerable pressures so that those climbers who climb because of, if I am right, certain inner compulsions which mountaineering can satisfy, become submerged in a polluting flood of sheep (or as Reinhold Messner put it in 2010: ‘piste mountaineers’).’ (Robin Campbell, Climbing Ethics, The Games Climbers Play) he went on to write: ‘I may be wrong, but I think there is a great danger that, even with the best of intentions, a powerful, active BMC may succeed in hastening the demise of traditional climbing values.’ In 2010, the BMC flooded the UK climbing scene with -10,000 expansion bolts with which to weaken the long-standing traditional climbing ethics of the UK.

Pete Livesey was scathing about the new wave of sports climbing: “some people do not climb properly any more.” No doubt he had witnessed climbers falling off deliberately onto bolts - for whatever reason which as sure as hell is nothing to do with climbing. 

Rock Shattering Pitons!?: “The bolt might offend, but if you chop it you will really upset the climbers who want to do the route! A far worse potential evil is knowing that bolts have been wilfully ‘chopped’ climbers will attempt the climb with the  ‘rock shattering’ piton.” (Toni Carver 1998). Over-bolting of already established trad-routes the FA of which were accomplished without bolts will eventually lead to the offending bolts being – chopped (Cheesewring Quarry). From Lands End to the Highlands of Scotland unquarried cliffs and crags have been deliberately damaged by drilling to place expansion bolts against the wishes of the vast majority of climbers and certainly, against the wishes of the vast majority of first-ascentionist.

Quote: Saving Rock http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=479302 ’we should be responsible for taking care of the rock for the future.’? (ukclimbing forum Wed, 20:55, 19 Oct, 2011) By deliberately, drilling it and placing – bolts.??

Quote: North face of the Eiger talk: Chris Bonington experienced this directly in his various attempts and final success in making the first British ascent and in his involvement in the dramatic story of extreme climbing and the extraordinary media circus that accompanied the first ascent of the Harlin Direct Route on the North face in the winter of 1966. (preamble for a 2011 talk with Uni Steck about the Eiger). Of course, Sir Bonington was accompanied by the celebrated Scottish climber, Ian Clough on the – first British ascent of the North face of the Eiger. (While Steck’s ascent was – solo.)

 Quote: Tom Patey: “What route did you climb today then?” “Dunno, haven’t named it yet!” Tom wrote about the solo climber (we have at least one here, Fred Flintstone, in Devon; in the Southwest) who goes to Chamonix in mid-summer and complains about the lack of – ice. He also wrote about the solo rock-star who turns-up in Chamonix mid-winter complaining about the lack of dry rock… If the weather does happen to turn fine, they head for the flesh-pots of Geneve for a few days…

Quote: ‘Already, we have what looks like a House of Lords within the British Mountaineering Council (BMC). I may well be wrong, but I think there are great dangers that, even with the best intentions, a powerful, active BMC may succeed in hastening the demise of traditional climbing values.’ (Robin Campbell, National Mountaineering Conference 1974) In 2007, the BMC flooded the UK climbing scene with – 10,000 expansion bolts with which to facilitate the demise of the UK’s traditional, climbing values…

Quote: Voltaire:  “I do not agree with what you have to say, but I’ll defend to the death your right to say it.” Or was it: Fred Flintstone (top Devon solo climber)? 

Quote: On sight: ‘The purest form of ascent which is conducted from the ground up, no prior knowledge of moves or protection (apart from “standard” guidebook info) and in which no falls or rests on gear are taken. Gear must be placed on lead.’ Can’t climb? Bolt! being the brave new world of climbing…there are few climbers at the top of the sport who are prepared to attempt standard setting bold routes in the on-sight traditional style. (2011)

Quote: Beck Weathers (client): May, 10, 1996: ‘The drift into unconsciousness was not unpleasant as I sank into a profound coma on the South Col, where my fellow climbers eventually would leave me for dead. What does a guy have to do to get rescued around here?’ Who looks after the client, after the guide has messed-up?

Quote: Feb, 2004: ‘As you point out the British Mountain Guides (BMG) “safety guarantees” previous to 1997 was highly erroneous. More so the fact that the British Mountaineering Council published such advertising. Misleading and dishonest in the highest degree.’

 Quote: Risk with Responsibility: ‘We know that certification is wholly impractical and would not succeed in reducing accidents, yet it is raised regularly and at higher levels in government circles who feel that climbers are poorly represented…’ Step forward: Roger Payne, (then) General Secretary, British Mountaineering Council (1995). 

Quote: ‘Sports Climbing is not about the bolts.’ ?? Really! (‘Why do Trad Climbers hate Sports Climbers?’ –  thread ukclimbing, April, 2011.)

Quote: “Drugs in climbing – it isn’t really cheating – because everyone can take them if they want.”  Really! Drugs, first introduced into the North Wales climbing scene in the mid 1970′s and under surveillance from the Operation Julie drug team. http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=438167

Quote: Rock Climbing, Wikipedia, Vandalism: “Another form of vandalism in rock climbing is pulling (removing offending) bolts and anchors.” Many of which, have been placed after the first ascent was made without them, climbs being permanently damaged by over-bolting – these bolts will be removed (the so-called British Mountaineering Council started flooding the UK climbing scene with- £20,000 of bolts in 2007 another £10,000 worth in 2011). Bolts placed by ‘climber’ who don’t have the balls for traditional; long-standing climbing methods. On the other hand, it is not viewed a ‘stealing’ to remove without the owners permission – pitons.

Quote: “We don’t want expansion bolts placed at World’s End (Wales) damaging and spoiling the look of the place.” (Owners of World’s End)

Quote: (Tim Howard sent me an un-solicited e-mail): ’What kind of fucking idiot are you?’: “The BMA (British Medical Association) ‘controls’ the NHS – which planet have you been living on? The laughter gets louder.” Tim Howard (tjhoward@10longridge.fsnet.co.uk29 February, 2004.) In December 2010, the government announced that ‘doctors’ (of whom the BMA is made up) are now running; competing to control the NHS via Pathfinder Consortia a privatisation of the NHS. In January, 2011, Dr Martin Meldin head of the BMA, became a partner in one of the new Polyclinic’s which received £4million with which to run some of the NHS contracts. He who laughs last – laughs longest… Would that Tim could have seen further than the end of his f****** nose.  http://www.nhsonline.net/news/article.asp?CatagoryId=2&ArticleId=1105  

Quote: Rich Simpson, world class athlete:  “As a world class athlete I hope to climb some ‘big routes’ – Walker Spur, Freney Pillar and Tour Ronde (the Tour Ronde!).”: (Sports Climber, runner and boxer and story-teller.) http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=436004 

Quote: “It’s all bullshit on Everest these days.” Sir Edmond Hillary 2006

Quote: “No man or woman who tries to pursue an ideal in his or her own way is not without enemies.” (Daisy Bates)

Quote: Enemies who think: “Now he is completely barking – a HUGE chip on his shoulder” (Jon de Montjoy UIAGM/IFMGA – we are competent in “all aspects” of clients care – which brings a whole new meaning to the word: care) for merely trying to stop the clients of UIAGM/IFMGA guides from being killed or seriously injured in avoidable climbing accidents.

Quote: “It is common to tie them (2 ropes) together with an overhand knot as this is less likely to jam in cracks.”?? The British Mountaineering Council http://www.thebmc.co.uk/Feature.aspx?id=1736 The overhand knot (which has been known to unravel - the British Death Knot) is apparently finding favour rather than, the long established 100% safe double-fisherman’s. You are a long time dead.

Quote: ‘It [the BMC] exists to further the interests of mountaineering as a whole, and it will succeed in this only in so far as it receives the full support of each and every mountaineer… It should be needless to add that their will be no attempt to introduce anything so foolish as a qualification scheme for ‘mountain leaders’.‘ G. A. Dummett, Pembroke College, Cambridge. To date in 2010, the BMC still only represents just one percent (of climbers / mountaineers / hill walkers / ski mountaineers) its membership standing at just 50 – 70,000? the true number may never be know. There are over 4million hill-goers in the UK.

Quote: ‘The wastful and vitriolic Mountain Leadership wars of the mid-seventies, fought for control of mountain training in this country, were but an outward sign of the widening gap (between educationists and mountaineers); a widening gap that was inevitable because of decreasing mountaineering values – step forward – the British Mountaineering Council.’ Pete Livesey, Climber & Hillwalker, May, 1998.

Quote: Is mountaineering today sick and polluted? Certainly. Is there hypocrisy in the world of the mountains? Undoubtedly.” Walter Bonatti (2000). See also: Vinicio Stefanello below.

Quote: ‘Bolts don’t grow on trees’,  according to a BMC advert for its Bolting Fund (apparently there is a financial cost involved). And yet, Kelly College, Tavistock, Devon, have in fact drilled and bolted some of its ancient trees as part of one of its Adventure Courses…

Quote: “Climbers who become involved with avalanches are either gung ho, myopic, English or a combination of these.” (top avalanche expert)

Quote: Mr Davis, in a letter to me dated the 12th December, 2000: “Dennis, your description of your sport as having become ‘somewhat callous and shabby’ is apt in my tragic experience from prodigious readings, out of which I have collected a number of extractions – this one from Peter D. Boardman won’t surprise you in the least”: ‘Outward Bound and other outdoor education philosophies would have one believe that mountain climbing develops character, courage, resourcefulness and teamwork. That may be so, but it is also true that mountaineering can develop selfishness, fanaticism, glory-seeking and cunning.”  Mr Davis’s only son Phillip, died in an avoidable BMG/UIAGM/IFMGA accident (along with two other clients) on the West Flank of the Eiger in July, 1992. Mr Davis had asked that his sons climbing equipment being used on that fateful day in 1992 be returned to him. Today, in 2011, Phillip’s equipment still lies rotting on the West Flank of the Eiger.

Quote: Alun Richardson UIAGM/IFMGA: “The President of the UIAGM / IFMGA (we are the only professional mountain guides) did not fall into a crevasse unroped and was killed – he fell off a hut ladder and was  killed, you want to get your facts right.” – Alun said.  http://pistehors.com/news/ski/comments/0746-president-of-the-uiagm-killed-by-crevasse-fall We certainly do need to get our facts right, wouldn’t want to mix-up falling into a crevasse unroped with falling off easier angled hut step’s would we? 

Quote: Vinicio Stefanello: ‘Himalayan mountaineering is far sicker than was originally believed’ (2011).

Quote: Dr P. Segantini (1940-1995): President of the UIAA from 1990 until his death by his own hand in 1995 was instigational in introducing; getting competition climbing accepted as an Olympic Sport along with the inherent drug testing etc., etc. It is not unusual for the course of climbing to be spoilt; changed for ever, the perpetrators, then leaving the scene…

Quote: The BMC should stay as small and as ineffectual as it presently is.’ (Ian McNaught-Davis). In reply to a question put to the climbing celebrities on stage at a Buxton Conference (1986). Don Whillains in turn, turned his cap back-to-front and said: “Pass”, in answer to Dennis Morrod’s question: “What does the panel think of the British Mountaineering Council?”

Quote: “the rules” laid down by fat-arsed, power-crazed swill-gut nobodies and administered by honorary-volunteer-automatons who we’re not allowed to insult because that have grace-and-favour status conferred upon them by doing it for free because virtue’s its own reward and by their association with the sport’s representative-but-would-be-governing body in its little stockade there where the ranchers of the climbing world meet on Manchester West Didsbury’s Burton Road – which latter is what climbing’s gone for when it starts to believe in junk like this and never place your unquestioning trust in charities anyway because they have their own agendas which are sure as hell nothing to do with – charity.’ Jim Perrin, Climber, 1998.

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No Protection from Ineptitude

Friday, June 13th, 2008

Bewerley Park Outdoors Centre, Yorkshire where a young boy drowned alone whilst caving on one of their trips/courses were/are AALA accredited. So much for AALA accreditation… Climber magazine, Feb, 2001: ‘Avalanche a Survival Guide. On publication of a new edition of A Chance in a Million?, the classic text on UK avalanches, joint-author Bob Barton offers some tips on how not to become a statistic this winter.’ , shows a photograph taken by Alan Hinks of an ‘avalanche checker’  checking the scarpe slope below the cornice on Aonach Mor, the qualified checker (working for the multi-funded Scottish Avalanche Information Service ) is not wearing a – safety helmet. Apparently, the new edition brings a whole new meaning to – safety, statistics and survival.?

A grieving relative writes: ‘The world depicted in your magazine (Climber – Nov, 1996) seems to be a macho affair, where it is appropriate to set out the achievements of individuals when faced with the challenge of the most inhospitable cliff faces. I note that the cover of your September issue features a climber not wearing a helmet, and that inside the issue there are four pictures at Los Mallos de Riglos featuring climbers not wearing any protective headgear. My son Mike lost his life on Los Mallos following a head injury caused by a rockfall. may I ask why your article and photographs encourage youngsters to disregard basic safety precautions? How many parents such as myself have to watch their children die after you encourage them to take unnecessary risks?’  R A Pinson, Helsby, Cheshire. http://www.partneriaeth-awyr-agored.co.uk/english/photo-gallery-master14.php shows scant regard for safety (not a single safety helmet to be seen) in the Outdoor Partnership that includes – Plas -y -Brenin – they just can’t get it right. Several young climbers have been killed and seriously injured at indoor climbing walls in 2010.

Climber magazine of course was / is not alone in encouraging young climbers to disdain the use of correct safety equipment. The so-called British Mountaineering Council (BMC) is the foremost organisation to encourage such an attitude both in print and via climbing photographs in its publications. If the BMC had put as much money into safety procedures as it has wasted in the promotion of bolts – so many young lives would have been saved and many more parents would be looking forward to a life with their children / grandchildren. Many parents, wish that their offspring had never heard about the – BMC.

The Times, March 17, 2000: “Is Chris Woodhead the most learned education expert in Britain, or just an anti-socialist climber?” Was the caption to a half page picture of the top educationalist, rock climbing whilst not wearing a safety harness or a helmet, in fact, he is unroped. One would have thought that someone with, supposedly, more than half a brain would want to protect it – apparently not. Just one month earlier (The Daily Telegraph, Feb 6, 2000) the same ‘expert climber’ castigated the book: ‘White Death’, by McKay Jenkins a book about avoiding avalanches thus avoiding injury and possible death. Some how, I do not think Mr Woodhead is disqualified by his actions to comment as he did on the book, given his own blinkered attitude to climbing; outdoor safety.

Two Very Lucky Climbers

The tall, sun tanned person standing on the narrow topped pinnacle in front of us was resplendent the bright sunlight glinting on his UIAGM badge. He was stood there, unbelayed, lowering his female client down a short vertical rock wall on the Cosmiques Arete. The drop to the left, 3,000 feet; the drop the right 700. The lady disappeared down the wall and traversed to the left, out of sight.

Whilst this was going on, I lowered a rope down the side of the wall to be used as a fixed rope, when our turn came. As the guide prepared to follow his client I motioned to him to use the already fixed rope. He looked at me, down his nose, and waved me away with a solitary finger. Stepping forward, he tripped over his crampon; fell the full length of the wall disappearing fortunately as it turned out, to the right down a steep, snow filled gully. Fortunately, his female client had taken a belay (two turns around a rock) which eventually brought the guide to a shuddering stop. he fell at least eighty to ninety feet.

After a period of silence, the guide could be heard climbing back up the gully to finally join his client. He was totally unscathed considering that he was not wearing any head protection; he was not wearing a helmet. If his client, who likewise was not wearing any head protection, had not taken a belay, she would have been catapulted out from the mountain side and both of them would have been killed on the jagged rocks below. Ineptitude on a grand scale. Of course, had the guide been seriously injured then once again, we would have been involved in another (we had in fact already been involved in rescuing 30 other climbers only one of whom subsequently died) avoidable accident.

In a somewhat belated attempt to ‘stop-the-rot’ in climbing / mountaineering (it has been left to the BMC for long enough) The Alpine Club has stated: http://www.normancroucher.co.uk/alpine_pdf_text/alpine_text

Talking about stopping the BMC rot: http://www.safercliffs.org/code/photos.html

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A Pig in a Government Poke, This Splendid Enterprise, MTT, MTLtd

Wednesday, June 11th, 2008

Mountain Training Limited (MTL): don’t take your eye of the ball.    In 1996, the original preferred bidder for the management of PyB was – Glendale Leisure http://www.snowdonia-active.com/news.asp?newsid=751 not the BMC lead ‘charity’ (who have their own agenda which as sure as hell is nothing to do with – charity) the so-called Mountain Training Trust (MTT): the Splendid Enterprise or BMG cash-fest: ‘The MTT were set-up in competition with Glendale Leisure’, and when the MTT thought is was going to loose – lobbied; went bleeting, cap-in-hand to its parlimentary bullies in Labour… Was this latest (2011) 15 year con-tract put out to ‘tender’? No, it was given to – Mountain Training Limited (MTL) to which, the MTT becomes a ‘service user’ – don’t take your eye off the ball.  

May 21, 2010: ‘The new government made-up of Con-servative and Liberal Democrats have just announced a £65million saving by dismantling Quangos. Sport England and UK Sport are among the list of British quangos (and pigs might fly). Sport England of course, created the rolling con-tract for the cobbled together MTT / BMC at Plas-y-Brenin, NorthWales in 1996 (against the requirements set-out in an EU Directive) along with £450,000 of annual subsidies with which to compete on the open market for outdoor pursuit courses. The dismantling of quangos was first mooted in 2001 after the  investigation into Sport England (2001) who were under scrutiny after the Wimbledon Stadium fiasco.

http://www.thisislondon.co.uk/standard/article-2392308-breach-halts-pound-6bn-search-and-rescue-helicopter-bid-process  Feb, 8, 2011: Plans to privatise helicopter rescue has been stopped and is being investigated by the police as apparently there has been some ‘insider’ dealing going on. This will not be the first con-tract that has been farmed out to the private sector that appeared to have some bidding irregularities in a manner that did not meet the requirements of an EU Directive… Step forward PyB. During this German’s rise to fame working for his Nazi masters, all Jewish climbers had been banned from German climbing clubs and no doubt - deported.

In the mid 1980′s while the BMC ‘were reacting’ to complaints by the Association of British Mountain Guides (BMG) regarding ‘bogus mountain guides’ , the BMG played host to a climber and UIAGM guide with past, Nazi connections, at Plas y Brenin… There was no reaction to this visiting climber from the – BMC. During this German’s rise to fame working for his Nazi masters, all Jewish climbers had been banned from German climbing clubs and no doubt – deported.

‘PyB- A Pig in a Government Poke, or, This Splendid Enterprise?’: ‘Faced with a loss of moral the Advisory Committee of Plas y Brenin lobbied the government in order to block the transfer of PyB to – Glendale Leisure…’: Dirty Tricks in High Places or, weeding out the unscrupulous? As a centre of sporting excellence Plas-y-Brenin is a failure. For the Sports Council to class it as a centre of excellence, was a piece of bureaucratic stupidity.’, so wrote Chris Mellor, in his article (OTE April, 1995): ‘PyB – a Pig in a Government Poke.’ He went on to write: ‘The Sports Council ran the place at a tremendous loss – £450,000 a year…’ What he did not write; mention, was that PyB at the time of those substantial losses, was in fact, already run; managed by members of the Association of British Mountain Guides (!) – BMG (a succession of them). The Sports Council were so ‘pleased with a somewhat  tremendous loss’, that it decided to award the same BMG / and now bolt loving BMC / MTT Date of Incorporation – 17/09/1996) with a rolling contract (means keep changing the goal-posts) that includes a annual grant of £450,000 per annum of taxpayers money – plus a English Sports grant of £234,000 to ‘improve accommodation’  in 2005 and another £274,000 for ‘work’ on the – accommodation block in 2008. £6,750,000 to date (2011) with which to compete in the Outdoor Pursuits market.

And yet, the original adverts (in 1995) from the then Sports Council were quite specific: ‘The Sports Council is tendering a management lease under an EU Directive in pounds sterling by a specific date for the operation of Plas y Brenin. Applications are invited from suitably qualified and experienced operators for inclusion in the select list of tenders to manage the Centre. The lease will be for a fixed period from the – 1st April, 1996. Operators should apply in writing by 12 noon September 1995. The lease will be let in accordance with EC Directive 92/50 (CPC reference number 96413) to the highest bidder. Financial tenders must be submitted in pounds sterling.’ The BMC’s first application was turned down, amongst others, in favour of – Glendale Leisure.

Derek Casey, Chief Executive Sport England: ‘Following the closure of negotiations with Glendale Leisure (after lobbying of Labour by PyB) the Sports Council met with the (cobbled together) Mountain Training Trust (MTT) a consortium of major, recognised mountaineering ‘would-be governing bodies?’, to hear of their proposals for the future of PyB. Further extensive negotiations after this initial meeting subsequently led to a management lease for PyB being awarded to MTT for a five-year period from the 1st January 1997. The agreement with MTT was at a slightly – lower cost than that offered by Glendale Leisure. Your comment that the Association of British Mountain Guides and the Association of Mountaineering Instructors (AMI) both benefit from the facilities at PyB is – correct.’

‘Top Tips on Bolts’: Plas-y-Brenin, the MTT’s involvement; contribution to the insidious practise of bolting a practise that flies in the face of the centre’s – Enviro Diary… http://www.pyb.co.uk/top-tips-detail.php?id=4

This meant that contrary to the normal safeguards required when dishing-out government con-tracts, apparently, no rigorous checks were made into the cobbled-together Mountain Training Trust (MTT) to ensure that the British tax-payer’s were getting value for their money (nothing new there then).

And yet, Plas-y-Brenin still went on to publish: ‘A New Beginning for PyB. On the 1st of January 1997 (two years late), the Sports Council awarded the management contract for PyB (originally to Glendale Leisure in 1995) to the MTT. MTT is a registered charity (of course) set up by the pro bolting British Mountaineering Council, the Mountain Leader Training Board and the United Kingdom Mountain Training Board. For the first time ever (?) the National Mountain Training Centre is under the direct management of the key National Representative Bodies (but would be governing) involved at Plas-y-Brenin. This is our first full brochure since we took over and I hope that you agree that we have continued where the Sports Council left of…’ !?

Fifteen years previously the then General Secretary of the British Mountaineering Council, Dennis Gray wrote: ‘PyB was a needless waste of money that could well be spent elsewhere. People learning to climb did not need such palatial premises from which to train.’ He went on to talk about vested interests etc., etc.

The way in which the contract was awarded is curious and yet typical. In 1995, the PyB contract was advertised to the highest bidder in pounds sterling, the deadline, September, 1995. The BMC / BMG failed to meet the requirements needed and the contract lease, was awarded to – Glendale Leisure. But then ‘something happened’. That ‘something’ cut right across the EC Directive: ‘Applications are invited from suitably qualified and experienced operators for – inclusion on the select list of tenders to manage the centre.’ The Mountain Training Trust, the final (somehow new) management at PyB was made up of individuals who had been ‘managing’ the centre for the previous twenty years at least – at a tremendous loss… People in the climbing Establishment were told to ‘shut up (one magazine states: by Ian MacNaught Davis)’ whilst ‘delicate negotiation’s were taking place – no, not between The Sports Council and Glendale Leisure (the preferred bidder initially) but, the now cobbled together, Mountain Training Trust (BMC / BMG / MLTB: ‘Faced with a loss of moral at Plas y Brenin, the Advisory Committee of PyB took the step of lobbying (Lobbygate) the government in order to block the transfer to – Glendale Leisure – no doubt to ‘weed out the unscrupulous’ (page 50 of the booklet: ‘This Splendid Enterprise’)’. You couldn’t make it-up. The Sports Council advert was originally offered under the guidance of an EC Directive when in fact, it was a farce… Nothing new there then. The PyB booklet also ironically, makes reference to: ‘less scrupulous operators’ and ‘weeding out the unscrupulous’ blah, blah, blah. The pot calling the kettle black.

There is of course another version of events – the 69 page booklet: ‘This Splendid Enterprise’ – The First Fifty Years of Plas-y-Brenin The (so-called) National Mountain Centre”, by Lyndsay King (2006) ISBN 978-0-9554675-0-9. Publishers: The Mountain Training Trust er, Plas y Brenin. Price: £9:99p. PyB, This Splendid Enterprise, sponsors the bolting of UK cliffs and crags under the guise of: http://www.safercliffs.org/code/photos.html Yes, the BMC and the MTT are both – Charities: ‘Just what does the Charity Commission (not another quango) do with the £30m – plus it receives each year from the government presiding as it does, over a £39m  sector of 190,000 charities surely requires a strict watchdog to protect all those ‘well-meant’ donations – financial shenanigans might suggest otherwise.’ Private Eye, issue 1161, 23 June, 2006, issue 1161…

‘Learn to climb through your letterbox.’?
Learning to climb through your own letterbox may not have occurred to potential clients of the Association of British Mountain Guides (BMG) and their latest PyB advert, but it may well have whetted their appetite. Some kind of dietary instruction prior to this climbing course is obviously essential. Similar misleading full and half page (PyB need to waste £27,000 on advertising in order to survive on an annual grant of £450,000) advertising has emanated from PyB in recent years certainly since it was given £450,000 (£6,000,000 since 1996) to waste annually.

‘We liked the place (PYB) so much – we bought it’?, was another misleading half page advert in specialist magazines at the time. The advert is not true! PyB, was given away for nil consideration (the Sports Council maintained – via letter – that the Mountain Trust’s bid was almost as high as Glendale Leisure’s – the amount, if this is true, has never been published to the public – the taxpayer) by the then Sports Council. Potential clients considering taking a climbing course at PyB (that Pillar of learning) might be interested in some of the back ground to the multi-million pound centre. Some principled people, may not wish to be trained by a centre that does not have a perfect safety record. Certainly, you may be interested in the attitude of the people who acquired the management lease of PyB in 1997 (as usual through the back door) and how they accomplished it.

In 1984, Dennis Gray the then general Secretary of the British Mountaineering Council criticised the waste, the disproportional spending of public resources which would have been better and more need fully employed elsewhere than on PyB. Fifteen years later, that waste of public money is still being accepted by – step forward – the British Mountaineering Council now a member of the newly and hastily formed Mountain Training Trust (MTT). Today, the public contributes, and the MTT takes, £450,000 towards supposed subsidised training courses at PyB. In 1985, the then Sports Council stated on more than one occasion: that it did not support the ‘commercial activities’ of the BMC and the supposedly autonomous – BMG.

In 1985, Plas y Brenin played host (invited by the Association of British Guides) to the ex-Nazi climber and UIAGM guide who was on the first ascent of the North face of the Eiger along with another Nazi climber Heinrich Harrar both – sponsored by the German Nazi regime in 1938 (all Jewish climbers had by this time been banned from German / Austrian climbing clubs).

Dennis Gray: “The socio-enconomic groups which chiefly make use of PyB are middle-class; comfortably off, there are also people who have a vested interest – who work at PyB (members of the BMG and members of that other commercial organisation the Association of British Mountaineering Instructors (AMI) and those who have enjoyed their subsidised holiday at the place, will defend the status quo – and their friends, Aunts and Uncles.” He also thought PyB to be a very extravagant, large, unwieldy institution which catered for far beyond what is necessary; a centre that goes against the whole background of climbing. He, like many others, knew that people wishing to learn to climb did not/do not need to have subsidised, state-sponsored instruction from luxury accommodation.

According to the BMC’s 1976 ‘Future Policy Document’: ‘…it is inappropriate for the BMC as a supposed, representative (but-would-be-governing-body) to actively seek increased participation in the sport.’ And yet, the Sports Council and the BMC almost immediately, started to advertise; enticing young people to (PyB) participate (thus creating quite cleverly a multi million pound market – for themselves) in a potentially dangerous sport. It mattered not, that young people would die prematurely. Even after the introduction of the Young Persons Safety Act in 1995, that enticement continues.

After a court-case in 1999 it was effectively held by the judge that those bodies who govern sport must take full responsibility for the safety of that sports participants. The fact that is was a non-profit making organisation did not absolve that organisation from responsibility (Law Gazette). On the 14 Dec, 2002, The Daily Mail highlighted the multi million pound compensation claim against the Welsh Rugby Union by an injured player.

In the BMC’s book: ‘The First Fifty Year’s, on page 77, the BMC quite clearly considered itself to be just that (the sports governing body): ‘The plan was presented to the Sports Council in early 1990 at a time when grants to governing bodies were supposedly being cut back, we considered ourselves fortunate to be offered (another) £110.000 (of taxpayers money) for  the next four years…’ Since 1990, far too many young climbers have been killed and seriously injured both members and none members of the BMC alike. Included in that number (the true number may be never be known due to a wall-of-silence) are numerous mountain clients four of whom, were killed in a multiple BMG fatality (the guide of course and as usual – survived) under a Scottish avalanche on the 28 December, 1998.

Regardless of Dennis Gray’s supposed view of PyB, it became quite obvious in 1995 that the BMC had been watching PyB with envious eyes… How did the BMC, who thought that PyB was a needless waste of public money that could be more need fully spent elsewhere, finally manage to acquire it? How did a BMG guide; an ex Director of Plas-y-Brenin, manage to loose three clients in an avoidable mountaineering accident in 1992 on the West Flank of the Eiger? Many questions – but no answers.

In 1995, the Management Lease for PyB was advertised in several specialist magazines. The tender, was offered under an EC Directive and Tenders were supposed to lodged by a certain date and in – £ Sterling. The initial ‘tender’ from the British Mountaineering Council was rejected. By the designated time, The Sports Council had chosen – Glendale Leisure of Preston, Lancashire. It was then that the BMC’s ‘dirty tricks’ started (a page of other dirty tricks is being compiled) against Glendale. Glendale Leisure was castigated in print – they did not have enough experience. A perfect safety record but, not enough experience. So why did the Sports Council originally choose them? Once again questions but – no answers.

An article in High Mountain Sport included comments from – Roger Payne (BMG – of course) the then General Secretary of the BMC: ‘What we seem to be getting (Glendale Leisure managing PyB) is a company with experience in gardening and running gymnasia’.’ The same Roger Payne, who after being involved in ruining Glendale’s chance of running PyB along with£450,000 of governments grants, has since left the BMC and, furthering his own – career, has become the first Sports and Development Director of the UIAA. Glendale Leisure were treated with total disregard as have many other organisations offering services to – climbers. This pattern of BMC officers ruining; interfering in, damaging other peoples prospects; careers, whilst ‘feathering their own nest’s is typical of the BMC and the BMG who run PyB with government assistance -

To the tune of at least £450,000 annually, £6,000,000 since 1996.

Plas-y-Brenin’s/BMC’s commercial, financial assistance was improved upon at the English / Sports Council’s, 6th September, 1999 meeting where, the members discussed and then approved – a rolling contract until the year – 2006 for the Mountain Training Trust. This has since been extended thus allowing PyB to compete quite nicely in the outdoor pursuit industry for the foreseeable future.

That elderly people are dying on hospital trolley’s, severely disabled people are not receiving proper care and attention, their care cut and carers being allowed to become prematurely ill and die and the government, via a quango, (cancer sufferers being denied life saving drugs – according to NICE – they are too expensive) can ensure that the MTT – will receive at least, £450,000 annually…beggars belief!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plas_y_Brenin

The July 2009 issue of Private Eye looks into the financial problems facing another mountain project financed through an EC Directive, the Cairngorm Mountain Railway (the BMC and others tried to get; lobbied strongly for the project to fail calling it, a White Elephant) mentions that an ex-President of the BMC was in fact involved, Alan Blackshaw apparently, eventually resigned over the affair. Because the scheme was not set-up properly in 1999 the EC are asking for their money back. I wonder if the same committee will look at the Plas y Brenin take over in 1996 under a similar – EC Directive and ask – for its; our money back?

Feb, 8, 2011: Apparently, cake-making ( http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=445474 has been an ongoing highlight at PyB for the: ‘last 50 years’, really! During my three month stay there in 1979 not one piece of cake (supposedly baked on the premises) was offered to centre clients. No cake, maps well out-of date (1918) and dodgy climbing equipment.

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Five Die on Grand Paradiso (15 May 2008)

Monday, June 2nd, 2008

April 30th, 2008: Five French mountain clients, Bruno Paladini, Colomb Christian, Sophie Chourtier, Christophe Gandon and Brisset Francois were killed in an all consuming avalanche on the Grand Paradiso in Italy. All consuming, well their UIAGM guide survived.
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